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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 30
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VIC Arapiles (General) (General) (General) [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

large bit of gear on P3 of Watchtower Crack

4:30:38 PM
On 17/07/2008 andesite wrote:
>Watching an elitist prick trying to clip the 3 pegs but realising he used
>all his gear already: priceless.

4:31:38 PM
I carry 2 large nuts. In my pants.

I tried to resist, oh how I tried. Also, I haven't done WT Crack.
5:30:07 PM
The point is that it is easier than yoyo and liberatto (spelling and name? - next to d major) although the hard bit is longer than both of those about 20 meters or so of easy grade 16 climbing.

The hard bit really is between the skink traverse and 4 metres or so above the final bolt - where you can place a good wire. I think there is a pic of simeys guide at the bit where it gets easy (most of the last pitch.)
5:34:36 PM
My three pitch strategy on WC is to run 1 & 2 together. The climbing is mostly easy so it doesn't need a lot of gear. This is especially good if the sun is starting to come round on a warm day as the first pitch belay is the first spot to come into the sun and you can cook on it. This works with 50m ropes (mind you I'm climbing on doubles which might save a metre or two).
A good lightish-weight solution to protection between the belay pegs and hanger on the top pitch is a six inch tube. (don't have one? there's one at my place in nati if you want to borrow it.).
An alternative is to belay out left from an anchor around left in Arachnus and use the pegs as runners. That cuts out the factor two issue. I know the pegs make a quick and convenient belay but isn't safety more important than convenience? ;)
fish boy
11:35:11 AM
It can be done like on one peg and belay off it.

Sport climbers?

12:58:32 PM
On 18/07/2008 fish boy wrote:
>It can be done like on one peg and belay off it.
>Sport climbers?

You are right f b, and it can also be done as a free solo!
Given the propensity by many sport climbers these days for a 'safe number' of bolts/rings, I doubt you will find many of them who consider your alternative as being 'sport'.
fish boy
4:45:21 PM
Maybe "sporting" instead...

9:06:57 AM
On 17/07/2008 harold wrote:
>My purple poly hex is just big enough turned sideways on pitch 3 between
>the bolt and the belay.

I was thinking poly hex - cheers. How's the NWO project going? any closer?
5:55:44 PM
Hey Warren, I got No. 4 & 5 BD camelots....that should cover it..Ben..

8:56:52 AM
On 21/07/2008 kady wrote:
>Hey Warren, I got No. 4 & 5 BD camelots....that should cover it..Ben..


Hey lets just go to the Gramps anyway. I wanna try Euthanasia or Die Young at The Asses Ear. I'm sure you can slot a few big cams in.

catch u later :)

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There are 30 messages in this topic.


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