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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Central Mt Rosea (General) [ Rosea Guide | Images ] 

Rosea ACA Guide
10:53:32 PM
I've started doing a bit of work on the Rosea information on the Australian Climbing Association site taking full advantage of Joe Goding's work (with his OK).
It's not too far along yet.
I've split the cliff into three areas:
Left : below and left of Giant's Staircase
Central : Left of Tourist Buttress and up Giant's Staircase
Right : Tourist Buttress and to the right
At the moment I'm working on the left side filling in the routes and putting some detail into the routes that I think are worth doing. I'm trying to be liberal with the "Serious" tag as I've already had Noddy have a near-death experience on one of Keith Egerton's routes that I reccommended.
I've put all of Joe's original work into the right hand section, even though the climbs are from all areas. I'll gradually fix that up.
I'd be grateful for any feedback from people about the routes that they have done at Rosea and any opinions on what I've already put in.
Also if anyone has descriptions of routes that aren't in any of the guides. I'll go through my Argus collection but every bit helps.

8:40:13 PM
Good on you Kieran. The left section is one of my favorite Victorian climbing areas, and seems to be virtually unknown.

I hope you can find the routes at the left. (The ones that the 1977 guide described as "100m or so right of...".) Also lengths of first pitches would be nice.

9:18:18 PM
James, I may include GPS references if I can find some of those climbs down the left. Mind you they might be references for a completely different cliff.
I'll definitely add first pitch details. I used to like freeform descriptions leaving belay decisions up to the climbing party. But the job of a guide is to help people follow a route and providing structure helps that.
Might take me a while to get through this but I hope to have the basics of the left side in before I go away next week. Could you send me comments on any of the routes that you have done, as I certainly haven't done everything down that end within my ability range?

9:32:07 PM
9:41:20 PM
Thanks MrKyle. Why didn't I think of that?
11:06:37 PM
Who else has climbed The Sloth. If so, what did you think of the first two pitches?
I remeber the second pitch as very good but I have been wrong before. All I remember of the first pitch is that it was steep.
Has anyone done the first two pitches of The Sloth and finished up Dinosaur Gully DF?
john s
9:23:37 AM
is that the link up described in Simon and Glenn's guide. If it is - I've done it and it was great!

Pat B
10:41:56 AM
Keiran, was looking at the ACA guide Mr Kyle sent you the link to. Was suprised to see a pic of some climbers supposedly on the third pitch of The Ascension, but I'm almost certain they're on the third belay and fourth pitch. I know you didn't put this guide together, but don't replicate the mistake!
10:52:35 AM
actually it's not ascension at all - it's fringe dweller p4 - almost identical spot as the photo in Simey's guide on p142. caption has now been fixed.

john-s : the link up in simeys guide is bubbles-dinosaur gully, not sloth.

Pat B
12:30:51 PM
That makes more sense! I didn't think I remebered the third belay being quite that cramped
8:57:09 PM
Thanks. I did know about it (Fringe Dweller pic) but hadn't got around to doing anything with the original stuff on the site.
I'm interested in what other people think of Sloth because it used to be presented as some sort of horror-show - and the third pitch is - but my memory of the first two pitches is that it was quite good and might also be finished up DG DF. A bit of feedback will help me decide how to present it. Heaven forfend that I should have to go back and repeat it to satisfy my curiousity ;)
Please keep the comments coming (nit-picking is welcome : as a pedant I cannot complain when the favour is returned)
10:36:57 PM
Since coming back from holidays I've done a lot more work on the routes down left end of the cliff. I've also got hold of Gimp and have started working on the topos with the photos that Joe Goding has knidly provided. First draft of the Melanoma area topo has been added tonight to Rosea Left Side for all the budding aid climbers.
I plan do some some more field checking and add more topos over winter. I need to repeat a few of the old easier climbs that I haven't done to see exactly where they go and if they are worthwhile or not.
Any and all feedback welcome.

9:22:07 AM
Excellent work so far, and well done to all involved.

(Melanoma at M4 looks great and is now on my 'to tick' list).

12:26:27 PM
I climbed Knick Knack a few weeks ago. We did Diane first (that second pitch is SO GOOD!) then thought we'd fill in some time while we waited for another party to finish on Mixed Climb.
I only have a few large pieces so I broke Knick Knack into two pitches, belaying in the little alcove halfway up.
I climbed the crack out of the alcove but then some nice holds came to hand on the left wall so I ended up face climbing for quite a distance up to a ledge where I rejoined the crack (roughly where Mixed Climb comes in).
I looked at Baxters guide afterwards and noticed there is another route that climbs the arete/face between Mixed Climb and Knick Knack. I concluded I had done some sort of hybrid route. Now, looking at the ACA photo I see there is a climber pictured on Knick Knack who is doing the same thing that I did.
Can anyone comment on how Kinick Knack was originally climbed? Was the crack followed all the way? Is the face climibng in the ACA photo part of the line to the left or does that one hug the arete?
This is all trivial really. I'm just curious about the original lines.
6:06:26 PM
Hey Shiltz, what does the guide say for Knick Knack? FYI That was Jeremy Greville's first ever lead
climb, so I wouldn't take where he is as gospel on where the route goes. A friend of mine thought he was
putting him on mixed climb and pronounced him a pussy. That was until his girlfried (who is a wicked
crack climber) only just managed to on-site the route and pronounced it solid at grade 19).

Kieran - if you want me to update any of the topos just ask. Will Monks now has a copy of my topos too
and is well skilled in how to update them.

8:07:17 AM
Now that is a sandbag! I am in awe Joe. I have never been able to sell a grade 19 crack as a grade 12 ramble.

I don't have the guide with me. I think it just says the line above which I would read as, "keep jamming sucker". I found the face climbing to be more appealing than the crack though not as well protected and, through that section, probably no easier. So, I don't think I stuck to the the original line of Knick Knack but I was curious if anyone here knew better.
10:49:58 PM
Just uploaded first cut of topo for climbs from around Coronary Country to National Acrobat. Numbers come out just a bit small and blurred on the web page so I'll have to fix those. You should still be able to figure out what is what.
Anyone who has done any of these climbs please let me know if you can see any problems.
I've labelled the climbs in the topos from left to right because that's my natural inclination even though the climbs are described right to left (as you come to them). Do people think that is a problem?
Joe, I'll certainly take up your offer when I have got things a bit more sorted out.
shiltz, I don't remember much about Knick-Knack but I think that I pretty much stuck to the crack because I'm a wimp and don't like to get too far from protection.
9:41:04 AM
nice work Kieran. those will certainly help locate the routes.

they also bring to mind that quote about the drunk fly that crawled out of an inkwell and across a photo ;)

for route numbering ACA can do it automatically for you - just click on "renumber references" at the top of the page and it'll number all routes. this will mean they'll be numbered R to L but IMO thats no issue at all, so long as the numbers match up between the description and the topo.
4:53:27 PM
The fly was sober!!!

I've got no graphical ability whatsoever even with good tools. When I've got things complete enough I'll ask you and Joe to have a go at producing nice clean topos from my scrawls.

Meg and me have just been for a walk up at Rosea. Fine day but not sunny so didn't consider climbing. Left side of the cliff is quite wet at present even though it hasn't been a wet winter so far. I think that all of the vegetated gullies and terraces mean that end gets a lot more seepage than the bit right of Tourist Buttress.
There's a new tree down across the track. I've cleared a path beneath it but it was a bit too big for me shift. I cleared a few branches blown down in the recent strong winds off the tracks. The trees on Tourist Buttress and Mixed Climb are still there though.
john s
3:33:59 PM
hopefully there was a bit of snow this week to finish off those dodgy trees.

BTW has anyone done Cream recently? Some time ago, we broke off a little pedestal that made it impossible for us to reach the top horizontal break...

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There are 42 messages in this topic.


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