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VIC Grampians Northern Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre (General) [ Grampians Guide | Images ]

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Stapylton New Routes

nmonteith

14-May-2007
9:27:37 AM

I thought I'd start a new topic as much of this info has been lost inside other off-topic posts....

On 19/04/2007 kieranl wrote:
>Mister Keith 37m 21
>A very good climb based on Keith Egerton’s old route Sternold. Could be
>done in one pitch but the Sternold overhang creates rope management problems.
>Start 2 metres right of Trident. 1) 25m Up face (FH) to ledge (some poor
>rock) at 8 metres. Climb directly through the overhang (small cams) and
>up the easier corner to a small stance on the right. 2) 12m Move back left
>and climb the steep headwall (2FH). Kieran Loughran and Norm Booth, Keith
>Lockwood. April 2007

I repeated this on Saturday. Generally I really enjoyed the route, but i thought the direct start up the
crumbling lower face wasn't worth doing. I'd reccomend removign that botl and just going up Trident
instead. The upper headwall was magnificant (and pumpy), and the lower undlercling bulge to get intot
he trad crack was certainly funky.

I also did the new grade 22 sport route left of Simpleton (whats this called again?). The is a super
funky climb! We all really enjoyed it, but thought it was a pretty stiff move down low. I fell off on my
first try when i lunged right to what i though was a ledge, to find it was blank. This is a full body
workout due to the wierd stemmign and palming. A fantastic addition Kieran...

kieranl

14-May-2007
11:16:49 AM

On 14/05/2007 nmonteith wrote:
>>Mister Keith 37m 21
>I repeated this on Saturday. Generally I really enjoyed the route, but
>i thought the direct start up the
>crumbling lower face wasn't worth doing. I'd reccomend removign that botl
>and just going up Trident
I tossed up about that one. The start wasn't as good as I hoped but didn't think it was too bad and it did make the climb independent of Trident. Anyhow, happy to go with a consensus on that one so if anyone else repeats it let me know what you think.
>
>I also did the new grade 22 sport route left of Simpleton (whats this
>called again?). The is a super
>funky climb!
Disco Dilemma. Took me a bit of work to get past the second bolt and I was way stuffed by the top. We did a trad second pitch but I don't think that will get many repeats. From the lower-off you can also toprope the nice little arete - good fun but not worth bolting

nmonteith

14-May-2007
11:26:12 AM

What's the route with the double bolt belay and single FH aroud left from Trident?

kieranl

14-May-2007
12:02:35 PM

It's My Brain Again 20. The bolt anchor is where the first pitch is going to finish when I get it done. Bolted it (badly) many moons ago and have decided to bring it out of mothballs but the starting groove is probably now out of condition until after winter.

nmonteith

14-May-2007
12:15:54 PM

The top half looks like a beautiful face...

kieranl

14-May-2007
12:22:33 PM

It is. The final headwall needs to be done direct which will make it 21 or 22. I pulled through the overhang and eventually stepped off left rather than finish up the very thin seam. With the new rap anchor it is easy to just swing right and clip the bolt anchor to do IMBA after something else.

swampy

14-May-2007
9:31:31 PM

>>I also did the new grade 22 sport route left of Simpleton (whats this
>>called again?). The is a super
>>funky climb!
>Disco Dilemma. Took me a bit of work to get past the second bolt and I
>was way stuffed by the top.

I thought Disco Dilemma was 23? I agree with the comments about what you think is a ledge... but not! Good fun climb.

kieranl

15-Sep-2007
10:45:16 PM

The open project right of Let X=X on Epsilon Wall is now closed. People have had a decade to do this and noone has bothered so I'm going to try to get myself fit enough to do it. So, hands off until I shake my way up it. It's going to be about 22-23 and the climbing is very good.

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