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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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All QLD (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Advice on bolting Frog Buttress

E. Wells
8-Oct-2020
4:24:44 PM
Hey a future good friend of mine is seeking advice over on thecrag

To bolt or not...

Yipyah- I’ve finally toproped the arete left of ‘Catcher in the Rye’ Called it ‘Clench’ for reasons obvious when on it. Really sustained set of classic Frog arete moves. Very hard for an old fella to judge but 26ish? (Well harder than Inhibition but easier than Catcher in the Rye! Before I bolt it I’d like to hear the communities ideas. The route is not at all contrived but shares its right side with the lower left side of CITR. Bolts would have to be left of the arete to be out of sight and mind if on CITR. No more carrots, I promise, state of the art only. National park though... All thoughts welcome!

Duang Daunk
9-Oct-2020
2:14:03 PM
On 8-Oct-2020 E. Wells wrote:
>Hey a future good friend of mine is seeking advice over on thecrag
>
>To bolt or not...
>
>Yipyah- I’ve finally toproped the arete left of ‘Catcher in the Rye’ Called
>it ‘Clench’ for reasons obvious when on it. Really sustained set of classic
>Frog arete moves. Very hard for an old fella to judge but 26ish? (Well
>harder than Inhibition but easier than Catcher in the Rye! Before I bolt
>it I’d like to hear the communities ideas. The route is not at all contrived
>but shares its right side with the lower left side of CITR. Bolts would
>have to be left of the arete to be out of sight and mind if on CITR. No
>more carrots, I promise, state of the art only. National park though...
>All thoughts welcome!

Since when have Qldrs ever sought Vic opinions bro?
What happened to the traditional State rivalry?
... but since you’re asking and want a Vic flavour on it - and also because it’s a NP, it’s really not worth doing unless there is a significant site or something else of cultural value involved.

Take for example how we are right up there with Rio Tinto when it comes to developing sites! Those pesky West Australian caves that got demolished weren’t in the same climbing calibre as Taipan Wall!

Maybe Qld should use a local comparison and your future friend develop the climb in similar flavour of Kangaroo Points’s development, after all, there be plenty of common ground in Qld sentiment with Fauci and the w.h.o dictatorship for moral support.
TimP
10-Oct-2020
8:53:42 AM
I dunno, what's wrong with just top-roping it?
Speaking as a top-rope artiste...
capt_planit
11-Oct-2020
9:53:25 AM
Second this. Routinely TR Solo past bolts. Why mar the rock for a 10m route? When in doubt, leave it as is. Or put in a nice TR /rap anchor if you must drill baby drill.
rightarmbad
17-Oct-2020
11:34:36 PM
Crack climbing paradise, doesn't need any more face routes.
You could put a face rote between almost every crack climb, but why would you be stupid enough to do it.
There is enough face climbs out there now.
When you have climbed every route out there then reconsider your proposed action.
f_abe
18-Oct-2020
5:05:57 PM
Bolt the f.ck out of it.
Climbing will be banned everywhere in 5 years time so live the dream while you can.

gordoste
19-Oct-2020
11:15:57 AM
On 9-Oct-2020 Duang Daunk wrote:
>On 8-Oct-2020 E. Wells wrote:
>>Hey a future good friend of mine is seeking advice over on thecrag
>>
>>To bolt or not...
>>
>>Yipyah- I’ve finally toproped the arete left of ‘Catcher in the Rye’
>Called
>>it ‘Clench’ for reasons obvious when on it. Really sustained set of classic
>>Frog arete moves. Very hard for an old fella to judge but 26ish? (Well
>>harder than Inhibition but easier than Catcher in the Rye! Before I bolt
>>it I’d like to hear the communities ideas. The route is not at all contrived
>>but shares its right side with the lower left side of CITR. Bolts would
>>have to be left of the arete to be out of sight and mind if on CITR.
>No
>>more carrots, I promise, state of the art only. National park though...
>>All thoughts welcome!
>
>Since when have Qldrs ever sought Vic opinions bro?
>What happened to the traditional State rivalry?
>... but since you’re asking and want a Vic flavour on it - and also because
>it’s a NP, it’s really not worth doing unless there is a significant site
>or something else of cultural value involved.
>
>Take for example how we are right up there with Rio Tinto when it comes
>to developing sites! Those pesky West Australian caves that got demolished
>weren’t in the same climbing calibre as Taipan Wall!
>
>Maybe Qld should use a local comparison and your future friend develop
>the climb in similar flavour of Kangaroo Points’s development, after all,
>there be plenty of common ground in Qld sentiment with Fauci and the w.h.o
>dictatorship for moral support.

Does anyone know what the f**k he's talking about?

Chloe
19-Oct-2020
11:40:16 AM
On 19-Oct-2020 gordoste wrote:
>On 9-Oct-2020 Duang Daunk wrote:
>>On 8-Oct-2020 E. Wells wrote:

>Does anyone know what the f**k he's talking about?
Which one DD, or EW?
dalai
19-Oct-2020
12:02:09 PM
On 19-Oct-2020 Chloe wrote:
>On 19-Oct-2020 gordoste wrote:
>>On 9-Oct-2020 Duang Daunk wrote:
>>>On 8-Oct-2020 E. Wells wrote:
>
>>Does anyone know what the f**k he's talking about?
>Which one DD, or EW?

Good question!
One Day Hero
21-Oct-2020
5:55:22 PM
On 18-Oct-2020 f_abe wrote:
>Bolt the f.ck out of it.
>Climbing will be banned everywhere in 5 years time so live the dream while
>you can.

If you actually think that climbing will be banned everywhere in Australia in five years time and your greatest ambition is to bolt garbage filler routes at Frog, then I really doubt that you get climbing at all.

gordoste
22-Oct-2020
1:04:26 PM
On 19-Oct-2020 Chloe wrote:
>On 19-Oct-2020 gordoste wrote:
>>On 9-Oct-2020 Duang Daunk wrote:
>>>On 8-Oct-2020 E. Wells wrote:
>
>>Does anyone know what the f**k he's talking about?
>Which one DD, or EW?

DD

There are 11 messages in this topic.

 

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