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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Buffalo (General) (General) (General) [ Mt Buffalo Guide | Images ] 

Author
Lord Gumtree
hpt
21-Sep-2019
4:29:35 PM
Hi guys,

I recently cleaned up the first couple of pitches (deviating up to Big Grassy). I hope people start climbing it more often.

Does anybody have some storied to share about Tony Dignan's ascent where he apparently hit the (dirty sloping) ledge when he busted it on the crux?

Or any other stories about Lord Gumtree?

One day I might gain the courage to attempt the next (crux) pitches, maybe with a partner...

Regards,

HPT

phillipivan
22-Sep-2019
8:52:13 AM
Iíve failed on it a few times, and would like to go back and try again - though that isnít a realistic short term proposition for me.

As far as I got, the 4th pitch - to the base of the crux pitch - was by far the dirtiest, though if you went to BG Iím guessing you deviated from the belay at the start of this pitch, since itís an easy step across there.

I reckon Miguel75 may have posted a trip report of one of those attempts. Otherwise I havenít got any to say you wouldnít already know from getting on those initial pitches.

Best of luck with it. PI.
hpt
23-Sep-2019
7:29:53 AM
Thanks PI, yes that is where I got to, in the cover of darkness. The "dirty sloping ledge". Sleeping there does not bear thinking about but it is only about 8 metres up to big grassy from the left. In the morning rapping down to the ledge to do the crux was too daunting. Especially knowing I'd be digging out wet mud and grass to try and find marginal RP placements :'(

3 months ago I never imagined I'd just be "bailing" up Ozy direct :D
PGS
1-Oct-2019
8:03:57 PM
Did it back in the 90s in the rain. remember testing RPs between square crystals that formed the sides of the crack. Low down was dirty as hell. Did that M7 variant later too. first time on a portaledge, was stoked at the time, looking back I realise it was pretty crap

There are 4 messages in this topic.

 

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