Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop
Chockstone Photography
Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo Gorge North Side North Wall [ Gorge Guide ] 

Author
Ozymandias gear list
Black dwarf
9-Apr-2019
1:13:17 PM
Hi guys my mate and I are psyched to have our first aid bigwall adventure on ozymandias direct. We have doubles of C4s up to 3, then a single 4 and 5. Plus plenty of mid to large nuts. Also have skyhooks and camhooks. Unfortunately we don't own any mirco cams or RPs and most trip reports I have read mention both. Unable to buy RPs, and we dont know anyone that owns any, I purchased a set of -

Metolius astro aid mirco wires set 1-5
Black diamond mirco stoppers 1- 6
DMM imp brass nuts 1- 5

- I'd been told you need at least three sets or RPs so opted for three different sets of mirco wires to give a wider range of sizes and shape.

What do the ozy veterans think?
Do we really need a set of mirco cams?
Should we get more micro wires?

Thanks!

IdratherbeclimbingM9
9-Apr-2019
7:34:04 PM
On 9-Apr-2019 Black dwarf wrote:
>Hi guys my mate and I are psyched to have our first aid bigwall adventure
>on ozymandias direct. We have doubles of C4s up to 3, then a single 4 and
>5. Plus plenty of mid to large nuts. Also have skyhooks and camhooks. Unfortunately
>we don't own any mirco cams or RPs and most trip reports I have read mention
>both. Unable to buy RPs, and we dont know anyone that owns any, I purchased
>a set of -
>
>Metolius astro aid mirco wires set 1-5
>Black diamond mirco stoppers 1- 6
>DMM imp brass nuts 1- 5
>
>- I'd been told you need at least three sets or RPs so opted for three
>different sets of mirco wires to give a wider range of sizes and shape.
>
>What do the ozy veterans think?
>Do we really need a set of mirco cams?
>Should we get more micro wires?
>
>Thanks!

You won't need more micro wires.
Regarding size and shape, the best fit for old pin scars on Ozy Direct is a number 3 size RP, and having at least three of that size or equivalent shape/size is a definite advantage, but having three complete sets of micro wires is overkill as you won't use the smallest (0's and 1's) or the largest (5's), or their equivalents, anywhere near as much, if at all!
If you are going to spend money on more gear then only buy the #3 size, as a double set of those is useful!

Camhooks can be used in some of the small RP equivalent size placements to good advantage, and will speed your ascent time considerably. If unfamiliar with their use then they will give your mental state a workout till confidence is gained!

The smallest micro cams are useful, but you can get by (though with a slower ascent time), without them by using nuts instead.
Personally I prefer offset micro-cams like offset aliens as they fit flared pin scars and flared cracks better...

If you can get another #4 or #5 C4 cam then you will also feel less run-out while leapfrogging them for a speedier ascent.

phillipivan
9-Apr-2019
8:09:52 PM
Hey mate,

You don't need doubles above a number 1 or 2 camalot. The stuff thats wide is pretty safe, and also short.

You also wont require any micronuts smaller than a 2 RP (and even then). Which would be the entire set of Metolius astro micro wires. The larger set of Astros, if you have then, are pretty handy though.

Microcams are not mandatory, but will make the going much quicker. The blue and yellow totems are the ticket. Probably the black also, but I didn't have it last time I climbed the route.

I'd rather take 3 sets of microcams and 1 set of microwires. Because they place and clean faster.

Mind you, I can't even raise my right arm above my head at the moment, so I probably qualify more as has been than veteran.

We have way more toys to get up the climb than Ewbank or Baxter, so show a bit a spunk and get up it with whatever ya got. Have fun!

PI.
hpt
9-Apr-2019
8:28:23 PM
When are you going? I'm planning to be there early easter.
Black dwarf
10-Apr-2019
8:44:12 AM
Thanks M9 that was the informative response I was hoping for. We should be fine with the gear we have so long as we have an equivalent of rp size 3.
We will work it out.

Cheers!
Black dwarf
10-Apr-2019
4:37:49 PM
Thanks phillipivan. I get your point about having more gear then Ewbank and just needing to use your head. I looked at size comparison charts for astro aid nuts and your on the money about needing the larger half of the set. We are going 10th of may and planning a 3 day tonight ascent and then also cliving where angels fear tread.
Davedave
12-Apr-2019
8:41:09 PM
Pretty sure I've just done it with a set of the BD micro stoppers and a set of imp/dmm offset brassies, but may have had a few bootied mixed micros on the rack (and a few beaks) so ymmv. I've only ever used the standard ('narrow') cam hooks. You only need a single large hook eg. BD grappling for the flake move on p3.

I've always gone with a plush rack of micro and small cams (standard aliens and totem-totems) so can't comment on that, but offset alloys will be nice if your small cam rack is light (eg. HB/dmm alloy offset nuts).

I've always used a pair of #4 and #5 C4s on the offwidth pitch, so it sounds like I'm a bit of a wuss compared to others. Agree double #3 isn't useful.

Are you planning to free much ?

There's still a 0.75 X4 on P4 which is looking for a new owner, be wary of the pins, especially on the fang pitch (pulled one under ladderweight the other week which was fine a few weeks prior).

Best of luck with the aidventure.


phillipivan
14-Apr-2019
6:26:12 AM
On 12-Apr-2019 Davedave wrote:
>I've always used a pair of #4 and #5 C4s on the offwidth pitch, so it
>sounds like I'm a bit of a wuss compared to others. Agree double #3 isn't
>useful.

Totally climbable on singles, albeit with a bit more effort. However, thatís efforts traded off against dragging an extra two large cams up the route for 15m of safeish climbing at the very top. Then just as you think the 5 is getting a bit tipped out, there is a carrot, so youíre golden.
lightfoot
15-Apr-2019
3:59:23 PM
Lower a couple of #5 from the top and they'll be there for you at the end if your concience allows such skullduggery!

IdratherbeclimbingM9
16-Apr-2019
6:59:29 PM
On 15-Apr-2019 lightfoot wrote:
>Lower a couple of #5 from the top and they'll be there for you at the end
>if your concience allows such skullduggery!

I've done that with water bottles on one occasion in the past...
During a hot weather ascent it's surprising how much difference that final 22m can make!
;-)

Macciza
16-Apr-2019
7:18:48 PM
Wow... whatís happened over all the years?? Have placements been dug out a bit??
I seem to remember the old gear list calling for a number of smaller RPís being needed, and pretty sure I used s few when doing it ...
Might have to head down and check it out ...

phillipivan
16-Apr-2019
7:46:56 PM
Smaller than a 2RP? My memory is that you'd really have to go out of your way looking for any placements that small. Maybe if you didn't bring cam hooks, or weren't comfortable doing consecutive moves in them? I dunno, I don't reckon i'd even take doubles of a 2 if I were going to do it again anytime soon.

macciza
17-Apr-2019
11:06:28 AM
Well then it sounds like the lower pitches have been 'sanitised' with the passing of time and newer generations of climbers.... The lower pitches had a bit stuff smaller than a #2 RP.. though it may be possible to use hand placed beaks instead ... will try to find an old gear list...

phillipivan
17-Apr-2019
2:39:45 PM
I recall placing a tomahawk near the start of P3 the first time up there; but I didnt take it the next time, so Im pretty sure it falls into the 'placed cause I had it' category.

Mind you, modern small cams make the going much easier, and back when I could ya'know - raise my arms; being a tall polish bastard probably helped.
One Day Hero
21-Apr-2019
8:46:35 AM
On 9-Apr-2019 phillipivan wrote:
>You don't need doubles above a number 1 or 2 camalot. The stuff thats
>wide is pretty safe, and also short.
>
>You also wont require any micronuts smaller than a 2 RP (and even then).

>Microcams are not mandatory, but will make the going much quicker.

>We have way more toys to get up the climb than Ewbank or Baxter, so show
>a bit a spunk and get up it with whatever ya got. Have fun!
>
>PI.

I don't really rate this macho attitude. The first time I did Ozy we had one functional microcam, no offset wires, no cam hooks, no peckers......and we took a couple of scary falls on terrain which is A1 with the correct tools. We weren't trying to be tough, it was a combination of inexperience and student frugality.

The whole bit about only taking a single set of hand and fist cams is dumb. I know the yanks are all about needlessly running the shit out of easy trad and aid, but every year a bunch of them get written off when a single "bombproof piece" pulls out after they've backcleaned themselves into death-fall territory. Carrying three extra cams is not going to be the difference between topping out or not, and it might save a life.

Ewbank and Baxter had mashies, rurps, knifeblades, a frigging hammer, and loads of aid climbing experience! Don't be a dick.


Duang Daunk
21-Apr-2019
5:16:12 PM
On 21-Apr-2019 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 9-Apr-2019 phillipivan wrote:
>>You don't need (snip)
>Don't be a dick.

(Trying to upload a photo) ... a shit exercise on this site!
Wait a bit, as it may or may not be successful.

IMG_7156.PNG

Okay, not successful., so picture this...
Giraffe in a lake with head just out of water, saying to mates consisting of hyena, monkey, leopard and antelope on the bank... ďCome on in, itís fine, not that deep at all.Ē
To which one replies...
ďDonít be a dick.Ē

... read into it what you will, as it can be interpreted more than one way, depending on your point of view.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
22-Apr-2019
4:29:32 PM
On 21-Apr-2019 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 9-Apr-2019 phillipivan wrote:
>>You don't need doubles above a number 1 or 2 camalot. The stuff thats
>>wide is pretty safe, and also short.
>>
>>You also wont require any micronuts smaller than a 2 RP (and even then).
>
>>Microcams are not mandatory, but will make the going much quicker.
>
>>We have way more toys to get up the climb than Ewbank or Baxter, so show
>>a bit a spunk and get up it with whatever ya got. Have fun!
>>
>>PI.
>
>I don't really rate this macho attitude. The first time I did Ozy we had
>one functional microcam, no offset wires, no cam hooks, no peckers......and
>we took a couple of scary falls on terrain which is A1 with the correct
>tools. We weren't trying to be tough, it was a combination of inexperience
>and student frugality.
>
>The whole bit about only taking a single set of hand and fist cams is
>dumb. I know the yanks are all about needlessly running the shit out of
>easy trad and aid, but every year a bunch of them get written off when
>a single "bombproof piece" pulls out after they've backcleaned themselves
>into death-fall territory. Carrying three extra cams is not going to be
>the difference between topping out or not, and it might save a life.
>
>Ewbank and Baxter had mashies, rurps, knifeblades, a frigging hammer,
>and loads of aid climbing experience! Don't be a dick.
>
What would you take these days? ... apart from the stated ...
>three extra cams

For the record, I reckon that thereís two kinds of Ozy ascents.
The kind where the kitchen sink is taken and the extended sojourn is enjoyed, even if itís hard work; and the second kind, minimalistic to the max as part of the fast and light style, though still hard work, but in a different kind of way! Heh, heh, heh.

There are 17 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Landscape Photos Australia

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | High Country Mountain Huts | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints