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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo Gorge North Side Wilkinson's Lookout Environs [ Gorge Guide ] 

Author
Ozymandias Original or Direct

Peetiez
10-Mar-2019
6:42:56 PM
Hi all

Apologies in advance if this is already covered but we're planning to get on Ozymandias over Easter and wondering if we should jump on Ozy direct or original?

Searching through the trip reports it seems like direct is more popular. Plus the roof looks amazing.

Cheers

Peter
rb
11-Mar-2019
5:14:11 AM
If you're going to do it in a day with no haul bag etc the original is ok. Pulling lots of gear through the top pitches (horizontal chimneys) is soul crushing.
The direct is harder and more vertical and would be my recommendation.

phillipivan
11-Mar-2019
6:03:17 AM
On 10-Mar-2019 Peetiez wrote:
>Hi all
>
>Apologies in advance if this is already covered but we're planning to
>get on Ozymandias over Easter and wondering if we should jump on Ozy direct
>or original?
>
>Searching through the trip reports it seems like direct is more popular.
>Plus the roof looks amazing.
>
>Cheers
>
>Peter

Direct.
Lightfoot
14-Mar-2019
4:47:46 AM
+1 direct but i enjoyed both. I probably wouldn't opt for the original again unless going in a day and short on time when i got to the split.


IdratherbeclimbingM9
14-Mar-2019
7:44:15 PM
On 14-Mar-2019 Lightfoot wrote:
>+1 direct but i enjoyed both. I probably wouldn't opt for the original
>again unless going in a day and short on time when i got to the split.
>
>
+ 1, although the technical difficulties on Ozy Original are different to Ozy Direct.

The Gledhill bivouac is a magic place to be... & I highly recommend it.


phillipivan
16-Mar-2019
5:46:47 PM
On 14-Mar-2019 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>The Gledhill bivouac is a magic place to be... & I highly recommend it.

Sandwiched as it is between some of the best, and most awkward climbing on the route.

Almost worth climbing slow to spend the night there.

There are 6 messages in this topic.

 

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