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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 41
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Northwest Camel's Hump (General) (General) [ Camels Hump Guide | Images ] 

Author
Retrobolted anchors - Witch and Wishful Thinking

E. Wells
13-Dec-2018
5:46:30 AM
On 12-Dec-2018 tufa_humpa wrote:
>Hey ODH, fancy heading south? Do you still have any of those DCV t-shirts?
>We're just downhill. Happy to help and get E. Wells' hardware back to
>her.

Thanks! I have a little Milwaukee 12v and they will be re-appropriated to the chimes of freedom traverse , at least in El Taswador the locals dont attack someone for helping progress the sport. I could be Damo's bodyguard during the rendevous , detracting the summit mafioso with my fine peice of...ok , too far. Jeez.
JDB
13-Dec-2018
11:19:04 AM
To DD, TH & EW - it is hard to quantify your collective wisdom

E. Wells
13-Dec-2018
1:54:50 PM
On 13-Dec-2018 JDB wrote:
>To DD, TH & EW - it is hard to quantify your collective wisdom.

Thanks! Hopefully the bolts are gone and patched which would require a shifter and 5 minutes and no Chocky. Until then , banter is fine.
One Day Hero
14-Dec-2018
11:27:12 AM
On 12-Dec-2018 tufa_humpa wrote:
>Hey ODH, fancy heading south? Do you still have any of those DCV t-shirts?
>We're just downhill. Happy to help and get E. Wells' hardware back to
>her.

Sorry mate, too far out of the way for 4 bolts. I'll be there in spirit though. Yeah, we really need to do another print run of shirts. I'll get our merch guy onto it :)

ajfclark
14-Dec-2018
1:15:16 PM
On 14-Dec-2018 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 12-Dec-2018 tufa_humpa wrote:
>>Hey ODH, fancy heading south? Do you still have any of those DCV t-shirts?
>>We're just downhill. Happy to help and get E. Wells' hardware back to
>>her.
>
>Sorry mate, too far out of the way for 4 bolts. I'll be there in spirit
>though. Yeah, we really need to do another print run of shirts. I'll get
>our merch guy onto it :)

Chuck it on redbubble. Print to order.

Chloe
14-Dec-2018
6:29:50 PM
On 10-Dec-2018 dalai wrote:
>On 10-Dec-2018 Chloe wrote:
>
>>why the setup is dumb if it has redundancy.
>
>Issue other than being totally unnecessary (so many easy to find natural
>anchors used by everyone the last 55 years prior to the retrobolt!) is
>that anchors on the face below the top shouldn't be regular hangers.
>
>An anchor unless easily reached from the top as questioned by Rodw should
>be able to have the rope threaded, as top anchors placed below the lip
>are usually intended to be used as loweroffs. This would be dangerous to
>do with these hangers.

Thank you (and rodw), for the feedback.

Macciza
15-Dec-2018
3:27:54 PM
Not retrobolted onto the runout/crux pitch I hope ....
The Rock Robster
18-Dec-2018
4:57:32 AM
On 14-Dec-2018 ajfclark wrote:
>Chuck it on redbubble. Print to order.

I think we both know Spreadshirt make the best custom shirts.
SBW
8-Jan-2019
7:18:49 PM
The bolts above Witch have now got captive rings fitted to them, I don’t know if they have been fitted above Wishful Thinking, I’ll check it out Thursday evening.
I intend on removing these and hope that the offender stops installing unwarranted hardware
marky
8-Jan-2019
9:00:09 PM
I thought these bolts above witch/wishful thinking were removed just recently. Have they been reinstalled again?
SBW
9-Jan-2019
4:07:16 AM
The bolts were left in, which made for easy re-equipping

Duang Daunk
9-Jan-2019
9:47:23 AM
On 12-Dec-2018 Duang Daunk wrote:
>>On 12-Dec-2018 Bro JDB wrote:
>>I think this scenario should be a red flag for all climbers; as there
>>is a huge influx of new climbers eminating from the burgeoning indoor gym
>>industry, who are heading outdoors without a good understanding of the
>>'ground rules'. So how are this next generation of sport climbers going
>>to be educated?
>
>They already are educated.
>“Like, that gym blue route was reset tha otha day; man it’s nails now!”
>Leads to...
>“Going to Camels Lump to practice getting stronger outdoors, but that
>Boogie Route is a bit gnarled and could do with a reset!!”

Sorry bro JDB.
I was wrong.
With the latest information available it appears the perpetrator has been educated by Chockstone! They obviously read Dalai reply to Chloe and went back to safetyise their botched lower off job.
Next thing they’ll want their hangers back to safetyise some other route...
dalai
9-Jan-2019
11:15:30 AM
On 9-Jan-2019 Duang Daunk wrote:

>With the latest information available it appears the perpetrator has been
>educated by Chockstone! They obviously read Dalai reply to Chloe and went
>back to safetyise their botched lower off job.
>Next thing they’ll want their hangers back to safetyise some other route...

From thecrag discussion, it appears to loweroff hangers were placed by the person who discovered these bolts and removed the original hangers and not by the original perpetrator.

Duang Daunk
9-Jan-2019
11:27:04 AM
On 9-Jan-2019 dalai wrote:
>From thecrag discussion, it appears to loweroff hangers were placed by
>the person who discovered these bolts and removed the original hangers
>and not by the original perpetrator.

This effectively sanctions the retrobolt.
Death by a thousand cuts happening here bro...

gordoste
10-Jan-2019
7:10:19 AM
On 9-Jan-2019 Duang Daunk wrote:
>On 9-Jan-2019 dalai wrote:
>>From thecrag discussion, it appears to loweroff hangers were placed by
>>the person who discovered these bolts and removed the original hangers
>>and not by the original perpetrator.
>
>This effectively sanctions the retrobolt.
>Death by a thousand cuts happening here bro...

Or is it progress?
dalai
10-Jan-2019
7:47:56 AM
Thankfully looks like someone will be chopping these Saturday.
One Day Hero
10-Jan-2019
11:01:42 AM
Ripped this comment from thecrag.com

>So, I was actually up there on Sunday with the intention of chopping them, but held off after >speaking to a local climber that was in favour of letting them remain. I'll leave them nameless >unless they want to volunteer themselves, but their arguments were mainly that someone >had gone to the effort of installing them, that such efforts should be respected, that climbing >was progressing to more sport-based and trad, and that people who didn't like them could >just not use them.

I get this drivel from retrobolters pretty often. Don't fall for it. Just break down each of these points, extend the logic to other crags, look twenty or fifty years down the road, and ask yourself how you want the cliffs to look. This is straight resource competition, they want A, we want B, A and B can't coexist.

All the shit these guys say is done to sow self doubt, with the hope that you'll get mired in ethical quicksand, or back down to avoid confrontation or hurting their feelings. Meanwhile they sure as shit didn't worry about ethics, had no qualms about setting up the confrontation, nor any concern for your feelings.

Fuch 'em! Chop their retrobolts, go and find their sport crags and chop their first ascent bolts too. They'll scream bloody murder, call you all sorts of names, but once bolts come out they do tend to stay out. Have a look at what happened at Kaputar, the 'bungles, the Dargan Arch in the Blue Mountains, or Point Perp. Same bullshit unconsulted retrobolting, same sooking when the bolts are removed, but the bolts haven't gone back in.

phillipivan
10-Jan-2019
6:01:50 PM
I’ll all for retrobolting the retrobolter.

Duang Daunk
11-Jan-2019
6:07:58 PM
On 10-Jan-2019 gordoste wrote:
>On 9-Jan-2019 Duang Daunk wrote:
>>This effectively sanctions the retrobolt.
>>Death by a thousand cuts happening here bro...
>
>Or is it progress?

Death to retroers by a thousand cuts would be progress.

On 10-Jan-2019 phillipivan wrote:
>I’ll all for retrobolting the retrobolter.

Crucifixion?
This sounds even better than death by a thousand cuts!

... and for any do-gooder pussy politically correct out there, learn to recognise sarcasm in posts before you get on any high horses.
anthonycuskelly
Online Now
13-Jan-2019
8:45:18 AM
Inappropriate bolts were chopped and studs knocked back to flush/recessed yesterday.

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 41
There are 41 messages in this topic.

 

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