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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC All (General) (General) (General) [ Victoria Guide | Images ] 

Author
Oxbow, Mt macedon
Brynn
7-Apr-2018
10:08:03 AM
Looking to lead my first trad multipitch, oxbow (6) looks pretty good for a first.
Trouble is I don't have a good route guide, just the bare bones from thecrag. Anyone have a good explanation of the route or any specialty gear to recommend ?
Thanks

Jayford4321
7-Apr-2018
10:21:23 AM
On 7-Apr-2018 Brynn wrote:
>Looking to lead my first trad multipitch, oxbow (6) looks pretty good for
>a first.
>Trouble is I don't have a good route guide, just the bare bones from thecrag.
>Anyone have a good explanation of the route or any specialty gear to recommend
>?
>Thanks

A UIAA rated chain for that route is essential. There is a how to use it video posted on Chockstone here;
http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=DisplayTopic&ForumID=4&MessageID=4081&Replies=3#NewPost

Other than that , take a deep breath and go for it while drawing on your experience given that you've got quite a few ticked ascents already like Real Mountains , Trad multipitch , Trad singlepitch , Sport , Toprope , Boulder and Gym in your profile?
Brynn
7-Apr-2018
3:08:22 PM
Thanks for the heads up jayford! Also didn't realise I had trad multipitch ticked, must've though it said sport multipitch.
Also I was mainly wondering if there were any good route guides online or if I just need to buy the book by Glenn tempest (I've used it before from a library, not really a fan).
Any advice would be super appreciated.
Thanks
TimP
8-Apr-2018
8:01:25 AM
Ive got the iCrag Melbourne guide app on my phone, pretty good with more than Camels Hump on it. A handy app for daydreaming at work! $15. The Camels Hump topos are sketched, other areas with photos are easier to route find.
I always get a bit lost at the top of Oxbow but there are a few places to bail if you get off-route. Chimney start is full on. Camels hump rock is good for old-school slings on chicken heads and threads so take a few. It's a fun climb: multipitch, exposure, all you could want for in scaling up your lead experience.


phillipivan
8-Apr-2018
9:16:48 AM
Trad routes at Macedon don't in general require in any special gear, big or small. There is lots of easy climbable rock around Oxbow. Don't get too hung up on the route description, use your nouse to pick the best and least mossy line, and have fun.

Grey Arete can be extended beyond a one pitch climb if you wish, and the first pitch is much better climbing than anything on oxbow, with lots of good nut placements. I quite like the V groove to the right of Oxbow for easy climbing, but have only ever soloed it and I think the start may not protect all that well.

There are 5 messages in this topic.

 

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