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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Author
Tongan climbing developments.
Karl Bromelow
29-Sep-2017
5:32:17 AM
Many years ago I did a little trad climbing on the limestone of Tonga's 'Eua as part of a trip around the world. I was limited to a house sized boulder on the south end of the beach at Lokupo but could see potential, on the huge cliffs that run the length of the Eastern coast, for some amazing sport routes. There were rumours that an adventure guiding company did operate climbing trips around those times as well but I am not sure that was true. Maybe some abseiling? 'Eua has been mentioned a few times since on here but development never went ahead until now. An intrepid bunch from NZ have been granted permission by the King (owner of the land) to develop climbing on 'Eua and they are keenly sharing there efforts with all. I will be going back and can vouch for it being a brilliant place to travel with much to do and now even stella multipitch limestone sea cliffs! Check out their website: http://www.tonganrock.org and Facebook pages: http://www.facebook.com/groups/986159234811952
jacksonclimbs
29-Sep-2017
6:56:28 PM
Looks awesome!

Just looked up flights though - $550 return from MEL was the cheapest I could find... bit spenny. If any flight specials come out, might have to jump on it.
Karl Bromelow
25-Oct-2017
7:21:34 PM
Greg Jack, is keen to hear from any Aussie climbers that might be interested in contributing to the development of sport routes on 'Eua, Tonga. You could contact him on here http://www.facebook.com/groups/986159234811952 He's also about to start a crowd funding campaign to help fund more titanium bolts to be used there. Don't worry about slippery slopes. There is no trad history or ethic on 'Eua : )
Karl Bromelow
9-Nov-2017
6:54:13 PM
I know this thread isn't stimulating much conversation but check out the full-length movie down the page on here and book your next tropical holiday flights:

http://www.generosity.com/sports-fundraising/establishing-rock-climbing-on-eua-is-tonga

Stugang
9-Nov-2017
9:23:06 PM
Thanks for posting this. I saw the original post and put it on the list of cool places to go.
If pipe dreams become reality Iíll def help out with the new route thing.

You guys got connections with fishing charters?

E. Wells
10-Nov-2017
3:39:18 AM
There is not nearly enough rock on display in this video for me to take interest in new routing.

E. Wells
10-Nov-2017
3:43:00 AM
It mentions world class climbing but just shows a panoramic rap-in seacliff. I need more (would love to go there btw)
Karl Bromelow
10-Nov-2017
4:35:33 AM
On 10-Nov-2017 E. Wells wrote:
>It mentions world class climbing but just shows a panoramic rap-in seacliff.
>I need more (would love to go there btw)

Did you scroll down to watch the full 18 minute video?
Karl Bromelow
10-Nov-2017
4:39:41 AM

>
>You guys got connections with fishing charters?

You could ask Greg on http://www.facebook.com/groups/986159234811952/?multi_permalinks=1545394335555103¬if_id=1510037396979869¬if_t=group_activity

E. Wells
10-Nov-2017
5:45:58 PM
Oh wow , yes , I only saw the first video. Thanks for correcting that comment. What a great video!
Karl Bromelow
10-Nov-2017
7:37:30 PM
On 10-Nov-2017 E. Wells wrote:
>Oh wow , yes , I only saw the first video. Thanks for correcting that comment.
>What a great video!

It does look very appealing doesn't it? I'm not really a sport climber but definitely keen to go back.
martym
14-Nov-2017
7:27:25 PM
Are there any local climbers?
Karl Bromelow
14-Nov-2017
8:08:35 PM
On 14-Nov-2017 martym wrote:
>Are there any local climbers?

Not when I was there many years ago and probably not now but you could ask Greg on
http://www.facebook.com/greg.jack.nz?pnref=about
gregjack
16-Nov-2017
1:48:51 PM
No local climbers yet. Ovava Tree Lodge is the best hookup for climbers. You can find their details online or more info on travelling to Eua here on www.tonganrock.org
gregjack
16-Nov-2017
1:58:45 PM
There are kilometres of steep sea cliff, 40-80m, much of which is constantly overhung and of which preliminary investigation suggests mostly potential for hard, somewhat committing routes. These walls will probably see some development next year, but currently we only have an access arrangement in place for the Fangatave Beach area. The cliffs here are set back from a beautiful coral sand beach from which you can walk to the base of the cliffs (via a cave!). This area has steep, juggy rock - see video - and so far at least more moderate grades eg 17-24.
One Day Hero
16-Nov-2017
3:03:05 PM
Sweet! There's dozens of meters of slabby cliff around Canberra too, in between existing classics, and you could totes smash in some amazing gap-fillers. Do people want to give me some money? I reckon it'll be pretty cheap, maybe 50 bucks for bolts and another couple of thousand for beer. It's, like, a huge opportunity for the community and everyone will be able to climb my routes once I establish them.
Olbert
16-Nov-2017
4:04:27 PM
On 16-Nov-2017 One Day Hero wrote:
>Sweet! There's dozens of meters of slabby cliff around Canberra too, in
>between existing classics, and you could totes smash in some amazing gap-fillers.
>Do people want to give me some money? I reckon it'll be pretty cheap, maybe
>50 bucks for bolts and another couple of thousand for beer. It's, like,
>a huge opportunity for the community and everyone will be able to climb
>my routes once I establish them.

I won't bother giving you any money but I'll climb the classics nearby and then rag on your routes on the internet.

I can also loudly offer my services to chop your shit. Although, it's unlikely I'll ever get off my ass and actually do it.
One Day Hero
16-Nov-2017
5:03:39 PM
On 16-Nov-2017 Olbert wrote:
>I won't bother giving you any money but I'll climb the classics nearby
>and then rag on your routes on the internet.

No you won't, that would actually involve going climbing.
>
>I can also loudly offer my services to chop your shit. Although, it's
>unlikely I'll ever get off my ass and actually do it.

Come on, you chopped one route once, it's never too late for a comeback.


The good Dr
16-Nov-2017
8:19:17 PM
Damo, there are Donkeys in Tonga too you know!! The cliffs actually look much better than your beloved Southern Donkey Land.
One Day Hero
17-Nov-2017
9:14:46 AM
Have you been there, doc? Looks like some ok rock in their vid, plenty of choss and veg too. East facing is a plus, lazy starts.

I have a bit of trouble with the idea of a 'buying from the plan' crag. Developers are notoriously bad at making objective assessments of quality. I do get the point that if it actually is good, they'd still have to bang 100 routes in before anyone would bother to go.

There are 20 messages in this topic.

 

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