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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 33
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Arapiles The Organ Pipes (General) (General) [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Loose anchors on Conifer Crack

10:05:12 AM
I'm not sure TBH.

12:14:07 PM
>Which gully are they in : between Conifer Crack and HornPiece or between
>Horn Piece and Dirge?

There is a set of anchors between Horn Piece and Dirge. Useful for getting out from the Red Wall without getting involved with the hordes on Horn Piece. They are on the opposite side of the gully to the start of F-Sharp. The anchors seemed to be sound and there didn't appear to be loose rock issues down that gully.

Access T CliffCare
3:53:18 PM
Hornpiece and Dirge. And there is a loose rock issue in that gully.

Eduardo Slabofvic
4:10:05 PM
On 12/05/2017 Access T CliffCare wrote:
> there is a loose rock issue in that gully.

That issue will eventually resolve itself
10:35:12 PM
Hard to see any merit in this anchor. I bet the scramble/walk down is way faster than rapping.

8:02:33 AM
On 15/05/2017 simey wrote:
>Hard to see any merit in this anchor. I bet the scramble/walk down is way
>faster than rapping.
You must be ill again. Or I am. We agree on something.

It also adds to the congestion on the raps below and there's not a lot of room for people on the ledge to get out of the firing line from it. On a busy day, you could have 3 parties belaying directly underneath it and another 3 very nearby.
9:53:55 AM
I'm headed to Arapiles this weekend, and have a grinder. Unless there's any objection, I'll chop and attempt to patch any failed bolts. If there's still one good bolt in the anchor, I'll make an assessment whether to chop it or leave it (with the intention in the latter case of coming back to replace the failed bolt), based on whether the rap is doable on a 60m rope, whether ropes dropped from this anchor are likely to land on a Tannin belayer, and whether the anchor seems possible/likely to also be used after approaching from the top (say after climbing Wyrd). But removing any trace of the anchor is a much more likely outcome than replacing it.
10:58:58 AM
Go for it. I formed the view (from a distance) the failed bolt could be pulled out without grinding; you might want to take pliers.
I also think (not sure) the bolts are placed optimally for rapping and not convenient to the logical belay stance.

1:11:43 PM
Can you leave the grinder at home for now? Really should be last resort after other things have been tried. I'll try to have a look at them over the weekend.
1:36:20 PM
It's already packed, so no, I cannot leave it at home, but I can definitely abstain from using it. :-)

I'll go up and just inspect and take photos for now, though if it's a glue-in bolt that's had a glue failure, there's not really anything that can or should be done other than chopping it. However if it turns out to be an expansion that could be removed without chopping, or (very unlikely) is just in need of tightening, then that's a different situation.
9:09:54 AM
Ok, so the anchor is two expansion bolts with hangers, quicklinks, and stainless chain. The left bolt is loose, but I didn't have a spanner so couldn't attempt tightening it. They are positioned on the right side of the Conifer Crack pipe, a bit higher than the Tannin anchors, so a slight downclimb from where you might otherwise belay at the top of CC pitch 2. Not anywhere where you'd want to belay, but rather in a position intended for rappelling. The rap is 30m and takes you down the wall right of CC that faces Wyrd. It's very unlikely that a dropped rope could hit a Tannin belayer.

So, not glue-ins, as had been speculated, and I could not pull the bolt out of its hole at all. Rather it just wiggles a bit and has a spinning hanger.

Photos to come when I get home or it starts raining and I get stuck in the Nati Cafe.

2:10:07 PM
So photos shortly...
3:42:59 PM
Its probably not a good idea to leave just one good bolt, people might be tempted to abseil of a single bolt. If its more than just a bolt needn't tightening I will happily donate a glue in ring bolt to a competent person to fix it.


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There are 33 messages in this topic.


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