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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Arapiles	Pilot Error Cliffs	(General)	Pilor Error Wall	[ Arapiles Guide \| Arapiles Images ]

Author

Pilot Error Bolt


Drake

1-Apr-2016
12:59:32 PM

Nice. I particularly like how you smeared it with baby poo.


gordoste

4-Apr-2016
11:57:52 AM

Great job.


nmonteith

4-Apr-2016
10:00:29 PM

Now someone will complain that the new bolt already looks rusty. Good job BTW! Not sure why it took the locals so long to replace one bolt...

simey

5-Apr-2016
1:50:17 PM

On 4/04/2016 nmonteith wrote:
>BTW! Not sure why it took the locals so long to replace one bolt...

That's because they were busy bolting crappy routes on Garden Wall.

Wendy

5-Apr-2016
2:10:24 PM

On 5/04/2016 simey wrote:
>On 4/04/2016 nmonteith wrote:
>>BTW! Not sure why it took the locals so long to replace one bolt...
>
>That's because they were busy bolting crappy routes on Garden Wall.

What was your excuse then, he who has not even been there yet? oh yeah, too busy injuring yourself with football and trailrunning

You know, i don't even like Pilot Error ...
>

simey

5-Apr-2016
2:14:51 PM

On 5/04/2016 Wendy wrote:
>What was your excuse then, he who has not even been there yet? oh yeah, too busy injuring yourself with football and trailrunning

Those excuses sound pretty good to me.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

9-Apr-2016
10:23:06 PM

For information of Chockstone readership...

I recently heard from a Natimuk bolt fairy the following (verbatim)...
>

The original bolt was fine as it was an alloy centre punch stainless expansion with an OK Russian SS hanger 2200 kn. The plate spun but that was ok and probably better for the draw when you're swinging, rather than torque the biner, but.. the replacement glue in had glue on the roof and the bolt!
>(Bad for the rope lowering off that). and badly hammering the good original bolt, badly scaring the rock (making it hard to remove and patch).
>Job done but glue in in a roof is a thirty year time bomb. At Araps the rock is right on the hardness scale and expansion is actually superior to glue ins due to glue expiry!
>Quality stainless is forever at Araps.
>Fixed.

I might be able to get a picture to upload if Chocky is now accepting of them...
(Post edit: After multiple attempts, it appears that this feature is still dysfunctional...)

I also heard that the Natimuk bolt fairy is ...
>

on a stainless upgrade at the Mount. All main anchors will be done. Many new anchors not in the bible, top R of Conifer Crack, top of Mari, top of Bishop at Mitre, also ledge of Penny Dreadful at Mitre.
>The Bishop rappel is 30 to anchors of Seamy Side, then to the ground.

(PS... Don't shoot me, as I'm only a messenger)!

patto

9-Apr-2016
11:45:01 PM

A loose hanger isn't a a definite indication of a suspect bolt. But if the centre punch bolt was originally in deeper and has now moved it does call into question its continued integrity.

argos44

10-Apr-2016
9:26:25 AM

Are we seeing buildings fall down after 30 years when the glue 'expires'? I dont think so!
Wasn't Hilti RE-500 epoxy used, which is one of the best in its class and suitable for diamond core drilled holes which are as smooth as u can get.

icefest

10-Apr-2016
11:25:53 AM

Boom!

Dead messenger.

johnpitcairn

18-Apr-2016
9:49:22 AM

Ha, I got pretty much the same from (I assume) the same bolting fairy. Also some unsolicited beta, though not for Pilot Error. Didn't get on PE in the end.

There are 91 messages in this topic.