Crag & Route Beta

Author	Camels Hump New Easy Sport Routes
shortman 23-Feb-2015 2:27:17 PM	On 22/02/2015 Jayford4321 wrote: > >The climbs are ok. Some have too many grips. I wasn't gonna say anything about any of this....but what the f--- does too many grips even mean?? >The vcc should fix the bottom >of the cliff as all my gear got shit all through it. >J You should climb at a gym, and think more.
MichaelOR 23-Feb-2015 2:53:12 PM	It would be great if you joined the VCC and came along on some of the Cliffcare Working Bees. Other crags have some really necessary and important works that need to be completed. The VCC is a voluntary organisation run on a shoestring budget and is always in need of climbers who are prepared to help out - even with just a few hours of their time. In fact the eroded gully and track up to the Omega Block at Camels Hump was stabilised and repaired extensively by the VCC and other volunteer local climbers in several working bees well over a decade ago. I hope that you are enjoying the benefits of this work. On another note, we didn't have enough volunteers to remove the excessive number of 'grips' on all of the climbs at the time. But what I usually do in that situation is look at the VCC Guidebook and find a climb with a much bigger number next to it. They've already had their 'grips' reduced. Many of the climbs on the Omega Block have a bigger number next to them. You'll really enjoy those 'grips'. I think that you should start another thread about 'Perma-Ropebags'. Great idea. You'll get a lot of interest in that thread. Michael
Dave_S 23-Feb-2015 2:54:57 PM	I think it's worth noting that "J" is a young kid who probably hasn't spent much time outside the gym, and may not have have a particularly realistic understanding of the logistics of climbing on actual rock.
gfdonc 23-Feb-2015 2:59:03 PM	Where are these in relation so Space Jugging etc?
rolsen1 23-Feb-2015 3:02:22 PM	On 20/02/2015 Jayford4321 wrote: >Hey has anyone found this crag or got better directions. I tried last week >an couldn't find it. Is it easier to find from top or bottom. >Cheers J I haven't been to these routes in a number of years so this information may not be 100% correct, but from memory you can walk down from the lookout. Take the tourist path from the car park don't take the climbers track. Go right up to the lookout, walk out from there and the climbs should be down on your left, you'll be above them. There are/were carrots to rap off, it sounds like there might be chains now. Space jugging approached from the other road is a great climb at 15 if you haven't be to those climbs yet. Go check it out. Edit: just saw gfdonc's post - these climbs (I'm pretty sure) aren't near space jugging, they are on the spur that the lookout is on. Bashing from grey arete is probably easier if you want to bash.
IdratherbeclimbingM9 23-Feb-2015 3:11:15 PM	On 23/02/2015 dalai wrote: >On 22/02/2015 Jayford4321 wrote: >>The climbs are ok. Some have too many grips. The vcc should fix the bottom >>of the cliff as all my gear got shit all through it. > >Dear VCC > >Please pave and mark a path to the cliff hence forth removing the fun >in wandering through the bush searching for this or any other cliff. Cable >car like the one planned to be built on Mt Wellington would be the preferred >option, perhaps contacting them would be worthwhile as they may be after >a plan B if the Tassie government come to their senses and don't allow >it. > >At the base of the cliff, consider fitting matting like Burnley to make >it safer and keep my gear clean. > >Please remove / fill holds from the climbs as there are too many to choose >from. Better yet please paint the holds so we know which to use and can >avoid the rest. > >A roof over the cliff would be great as it will protect us from the elements. > >If you could move the cliff to the city it would be much appreciated. >Far more convenient... > >Thanks > On 23/02/2015 shortman wrote: >Dalai cracked a funny. It wasn't the best I have heard, but what the heck, any reason to celebrate! ... And in 13 years of Chocky history this is the first* time I have read of him doing one. (*Ok, maybe the 2nd, heh, heh, heh.) Foreezajollyfunnyposter, foreezajollyfunnyposter, forezzturnedovaanewchapter inpoooosstiiingg Ansosayallofus. Hiphophooray anallthatstuff! PS Jayford4321, Climb harder grades. As MOR says; ... They usually have less 'grips', and are often cleaner too!
dalai 23-Feb-2015 3:17:15 PM	The walk across from Grey Arete is not bad, just a matter of heading up a bit first then taking the path of least resistance across. From the left side of the Lower tier box in the above image, head diagonally up left a ways before contouring across to the Eastern Buttress which is at the right edge of the Eastern Outcrop box. Space Jugging is on the opposite side of the Eastern Outcrop gfdonc.
shortman 23-Feb-2015 3:28:41 PM	On 23/02/2015 Dave_S wrote: >I think it's worth noting that "J" is a young kid who probably hasn't spent >much time outside the gym, and may not have have a particularly realistic >understanding of the logistics of climbing on actual rock. Hmm, right you are and fair enough.
IdratherbeclimbingM9 23-Feb-2015 3:42:59 PM	On 23/02/2015 shortman wrote: >On 23/02/2015 Dave_S wrote: >>I think it's worth noting that "J" is a young kid who probably hasn't >spent >>much time outside the gym, and may not have have a particularly realistic >>understanding of the logistics of climbing on actual rock. > >Hmm, right you are and fair enough. Yes, this is the lad whose mum&dad was buying him trad gear for Chrissy. It is good to see him out and about, & what's more, contributing to Chocky. Who knows, maybe he is right and some of us old farts need to stop climbing dirty routes and clean up our acts! His profile states that he is keen to learn... He is certainly getting an education by jumping into the deep end known as Chockstone. ~> I predict that we may next see some rather innocent queries about how to safely clean gear & remove those nasty scratches it seems to accumulate from usage... ;-)
MichaelOR 23-Feb-2015 3:48:38 PM	Apologies also, I jumped in without checking. I can't even claim that I followed Dalai's lead! I suppose I've heard a few too many times that "The VCC should ......" Still, the generic plug for the VCC, Cliffcare and Working Bees stands.
dalai 23-Feb-2015 4:58:38 PM	On 23/02/2015 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote: >It wasn't the best I have heard, but what the heck, any reason to celebrate! Who is joking? I was asking, neigh demanding the VCC fix up this and all the other cliffs! Actually whilst at it, even at Camels there isn't enough bouldering, so if they could dynamite the Omega block we may finally end up with some worthwhile climbing at Camels...
anthonycuskelly 23-Feb-2015 5:01:28 PM	J, I've always found that insulting people's intelligence, and being as entitled as possible, gets me exactly what I want. Mark didn't have to spend time & money rebolting, let along telling us where they were. Consider your own actions, and take some responsibility.
dalai 23-Feb-2015 5:09:42 PM	On 23/02/2015 shortman wrote: >On 23/02/2015 Dave_S wrote: >>I think it's worth noting that "J" is a young kid who probably hasn't >spent >>much time outside the gym, and may not have have a particularly realistic >>understanding of the logistics of climbing on actual rock. > >Hmm, right you are and fair enough. Not really. Posted a question as to access Friday night - then tone of the next post on Sunday when no one had replied was pretty terse. Perhaps Jay should 1. Realize the forum doesn't have a huge membership base and of that few members may have been to the cliff in question to be able to answer 2. Members may not be online but actually out climbing like he was so couldn't reply even if they could answer! As to getting the gear dirty, it is pretty obvious that if the ground is loose soil and leaf litter, to save gear getting dirty you would place the gear on a groundsheet and if he didn't have one (I am sure he will now) at least on his pack?
JohnK 23-Feb-2015 6:53:01 PM	Spent the day there yesterday with Liz, and it was a nice change from the other areas at Camel's. Worthwhile a visit and you should be able to tick all the climbs in a day. In terms of directions, in my mind, we found one of the 2 ways easier: 1. Before you get to the lookout start to skirt left below the lookout and simply follow the cliff line until you get to the climbing area of the cliff - a track soon appears above the climbing area 2. Go over the lookout (right and under the railing is best) to the next rocky knoll and a grass cleaering and make your way down left down a grassy gully with some minimal low level scrambling. Then keep traversing down and right towards bottom of cliff where you reach the climbing area. If people who now start going to the area start putting some rock cairns along the way it should be easy to find. Well bolted and a great area - some of the first bolts are a bit on the high side but should by ok for most intermediate climbers otherwise if you are a beginner get someone more experienced to clip the first bolt for you. John K.
One Day Hero 23-Feb-2015 9:19:29 PM	On 23/02/2015 anthonycuskelly wrote: >J, I've always found that insulting people's intelligence, and being as >entitled as possible, gets me exactly what I want. While anthony here is making a lame attempt at biting sarcasm, I really do find that insulting people's intelligence and being as big a prick as possible offers way more fun on chocky than any other crap which you might think of to bang on about. Now, the key point for young players is that you should really put some effort in to getting strongish asap. There's nothing that irritates the "serious online authority" type more efficiently than some young arseclown who babbles bullshit, refuses to respect their elders, and also pulls down harder than the old coots............not that you even have to be that good, half these idiots can't even climb 19 anymore (if they ever could!) >Mark didn't have to >spend time & money rebolting, let alone telling us where they were. Sounded a lot more like retrobolting to me. Don't get caught up in the idea that route-bolters are doing some kind of community service.
dalai 24-Feb-2015 11:51:24 AM	On 23/02/2015 One Day Hero wrote: > I really do find that insulting people's intelligence and being as big a prick as >possible offers way more fun on chocky than any other crap which you might >think of to bang on about. But you know everything ODH plus love being the town idiot. Young J would be best served by using a less abrupt tone given he doesn't want to burn all bridges with those who could help answer all his potential beginner questions. Plus Chocky town isn't big enough for two idiots, so one of you would have to go...
phil_nev 24-Feb-2015 4:51:12 PM	On 24/02/2015 dalai wrote: >Young J would be best served by using a less abrupt tone given he doesn't >want to burn all bridges with those who could help answer all his potential >beginner questions. Plus Chocky town isn't big enough for two idiots, >so one of you would have to go... Gold!! Thanks Martin! :)
stugang 24-Feb-2015 6:30:43 PM	Wtf
shortman 24-Feb-2015 7:39:06 PM	On 24/02/2015 Jayford4321 wrote: >Wtf Basically Jay, people are trying to say that your nice shiny new gear was made to get dirty. That's all.
Miguel75 24-Feb-2015 8:56:47 PM	On 24/02/2015 shortman wrote: >On 24/02/2015 Jayford4321 wrote: >>Wtf > >Basically Jay, people are trying to say that your nice shiny new gear >was made to get dirty. That's all. Maybe not all Dan... Jay, climbing is fun; being young is fun. Let your youthful enthusiasm guide you. Sometimes you strike it rich (ie your Chocky questions are answered) sometimes you luck out (sometimes they're not); either way you'll grow old, fat and maybe even bald;)

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