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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Grampians	Northern	Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre	Taipan Wall	[ Taipan Images ]

Author

Are link ups really worth it?

Nottobetaken

3-Mar-2006
3:34:34 PM

The nature of this conversation has changed somewhat from its original concept (Taipan 1st visit - what route). Now we're talkin' link ups...


phil_nev

3-Mar-2006
3:45:58 PM

Mr Joshua First pitch for sure. Maybe Invisible fist as well.

3-Mar-2006
4:44:50 PM

Warm up on Ukrainian Geranium. Do Posy while you're here. Move on to The Mint. Cruise Up Seventh Pillar via the Left Variant then the Right Variant. Then head for the airport - nothing else on the wall is any good.

james

3-Mar-2006
4:50:49 PM

warm up on Sirocco pitch 1, then Seventh Banana pitch 1, then World Party.


nmonteith

6-Mar-2006
9:05:52 AM

Fisting Party (26).

Climb Invisible Fist to the 2nd last bolt, traverse right to end of flake then step right into the crux of World
Party pitch 2, slope arcoss its traverse then finish up World Party pitch 3. One pitch - 15 bolts, 2 bits of
optional trad. Lower off in a screaming mess. Go home.

dalai

6-Mar-2006
9:24:06 AM

So the obvious one pitch hell link up has finally been done?


nmonteith

6-Mar-2006
9:32:32 AM

I linked Invisible Fist into World Party Pitch 2 on saturday. I didn't do the third pitch because I was soft
and I had better things to do! (thats my excuse). There is a new bolt between the two routes.


phil_nev

6-Mar-2006
10:18:09 AM

You mean a new dogging bolt on Invisible fist...??


nmonteith

6-Mar-2006
10:29:17 AM

Yere - and i chipped a new bucket at the crux.

gfdonc

6-Mar-2006
10:39:48 AM

That's a disgraceful name for a route ..


nmonteith

6-Mar-2006
11:22:25 AM

Phil Nev thought of it. I liked the simple Invisible Party myself...

Nottobetaken

6-Mar-2006
11:28:34 AM

On 6/03/2006 nmonteith wrote:
>I linked Invisible Fist into World Party Pitch 2 on saturday. I didn't
>do the third pitch because I was soft
>and I had better things to do! (thats my excuse). There is a new bolt
>between the two routes.

So - you linked into the big gaston sloper press on World P - or does it come in at a higher level? Nice. It's about time somebody did that. Don't know about your idea of continuing into the 3rd though.


nmonteith

6-Mar-2006
1:06:56 PM

>So - you linked into the big gaston sloper press on World P - or does
>it come in at a higher level?

Slightly higher - you have the tip of the invisible fist flake in your left hand and reach across to a good
rail. Match on this and reach right to the awesome jug after the crux of World Party. The traverse
move itself is no harder than 22.

>Don't know about your idea of continuing into the 3rd though.

It would be seriously awesome single pitch for someone with the endurance to do it. Rope drag would
be minimal (comparatively to the ground you cover!). If you were also that strong i reckon you wouldn't
need to place the two bits of optional trad gear as well. It is a 50m long bolted pitch which overhangs
about 15m up the best rock in the universe!

One Day Hero

9-Mar-2006
1:47:50 PM

Just out of interest, what are the two pieces of trad gear? I'll be heading down that way in a wee while.

drdeviousii

9-Mar-2006
1:56:26 PM

#5 camlot & a big hex


nmonteith

9-Mar-2006
2:22:35 PM

Two medium sized wires (approx Rock #4 or #5). The upper wire is a rubbish flared placement about 1m
above the last bolt - but you have to commit to a big runout above it so it is worth having in. KP took a
fall onto this wire and it held apparently! I didn't dare test this theory myself...

(removed)

10-Mar-2006
4:20:30 PM

On 6/03/2006 nmonteith wrote:
>Phil Nev thought of it. I liked the simple Invisible Party myself...
Dave Jones suggested "Fist Party" in 1996 when I first contemplated it.

Without the bolt of course. It looked like a mofo of a fall but one where you would miss the big sit down block on IF ... so a safe one.

26 for the 55m linkup sounds pretty bloody stiff for the grade, although it does avoid the crux of World Party (steps in just above it)

(removed)

10-Mar-2006
4:22:24 PM

Either way, there's still a FA up for grabs.

Pollit's bullshit arbitrary belay at the end of WP pitch 2 should be ripped out - you climb right around the outside of it with the help of a beautiful very deep 2/3 finger pocket. World Party should have only ever been 2 pitches. Fist Party (crap name I agree) also should avoid this dumb end point.

There's a lie down rest in the cave above the second belay anyway so you can have a nice long rest Neil just in time to get shit scared on the top (beautiful) section.

The last runout without gear is real brown pants territory and there's a good chance your forearms will be so utterly f---ed (like min were) that you will end up dyno-ing for the chicken heads.

What a magnificent piece of rock.


nmonteith

10-Mar-2006
4:33:52 PM

On 10/03/2006 FatBoy wrote:
>The last runout without gear is real brown pants territory and there's
>a good chance your forearms will be so utterly f---ed (like min were) that
>you will end up dyno-ing for the chicken heads.

I managed to whittle in an RP1 somewhere up above that crap last wire. I slumped onto it whilst it was
still attached to the rack of wires and sling wrapped around my shoulders. Funny stuff indeed. I was
super duper pumped.

(removed)

10-Mar-2006
4:56:39 PM

Reassure me Neil: You're not going to write this up as a route until you do the proper line ?

There are 46 messages in this topic.