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Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Grampians Northern Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall [ Taipan Images ]

Author

Serpentine a sport route?

maxdacat

1-Nov-2011
1:27:35 PM

Not that I would know since it's way above my (current) pay grade but I was interested in what it's like after being told it's the best route in the world by an English guy who managed to onsight it. I found a german guy's blog who had a topo showing the placements, which are either "carrots" or cams and a nut placement (will post a link later when i'm not at work). I think he noted about 4 trad placements in total which suprised me as I'd only thought there was one.

Seems rather curious in the world of modern clip ups.

widewetandslippery

1-Nov-2011
2:52:34 PM

I heard its chipped

nmonteith

1-Nov-2011
5:39:39 PM

It's probably 2/3 bolts and 1/3 trad. It's certainly not a sport route. It doesn't even have a lower-off.

phil_nev

1-Nov-2011
5:59:27 PM

Theres actualy 8 bolts and 7 pieces of gear, though three of the wires are fixed. You really only need to place 3 cams at the moment in terms of trad. You do need plenty of extenders though, even on the bolts.

widewetandslippery

1-Nov-2011
6:38:41 PM

Phil give the gos to the punters. Obviously if you can do the route or are capable of a fair crac u do not you do not need beta. Go up

nmonteith

1-Nov-2011
6:43:26 PM

BTW all bolts have fixed hangers - there are no bolts requiring keyhole hangers. All the bolts are bash in carrots though.

widewetandslippery

1-Nov-2011
6:46:18 PM

.Ps I am not a good enough climber to do this route. Mass kudos to akl who've. Done it

phil_nev

2-Nov-2011
7:40:15 AM

On 1/11/2011 widewetandslippery wrote:
>Phil give the gos to the punters. Obviously if you can do the route or
>are capable of a fair crac u do not you do not need beta. Go up

Sorry matey, not sure what u mean?? :)
I'm a little slow sometimes.

citationx

2-Nov-2011
8:25:56 AM

On 2/11/2011 phil_nev wrote:
>On 1/11/2011 widewetandslippery wrote:
>>Phil give the gos to the punters. Obviously if you can do the route or
>>are capable of a fair crac u do not you do not need beta. Go up
>
>Sorry matey, not sure what u mean?? :)
>I'm a little slow sometimes.

I'm not sure anyone does. His post was at 6:30pm, only a few hours after one certain Melbourne Cup...

maxdacat

2-Nov-2011
10:25:40 AM

On 2/11/2011 phil_nev wrote:
>On 1/11/2011 widewetandslippery wrote:
>>Phil give the gos to the punters. Obviously if you can do the route or
>>are capable of a fair crac u do not you do not need beta. Go up
>
>Sorry matey, not sure what u mean?? :)
>I'm a little slow sometimes.

Gos = gossip, crac = attempt, ie can you share your beta (i am guessing).

Anyway, bashies, cams & fixed wires on an 8a pitch 50m above the deck, sounds err atmospheric :p

widewetandslippery

2-Nov-2011
4:24:20 PM

Thanks for interpreting what I wrote, I'm still getting the hang of the 500ml mb cans

sliamese

2-Nov-2011
4:34:24 PM

its not as hard as the grade necessarily suggests, and i tell anyone who can climb grade 27 to get on it and have a crack! the difficulty lies in the abundant opportunities to mess it up, and having the fitness more than strength and power!

very few people place the gear on lead, and theres fixed gear in the route most of the time, so its a 'sporty' route in the true taipan style....

There are 12 messages in this topic.