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Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Grampians Victoria Range Red Rocks (General) [ Red Rocks Guide | Images ]

Author

Conflict of Interest (20) at Red Rocks - Grampians

JDB

16-Jun-2010
9:05:56 AM

Morning All,

I had a look at 'said' route on the weekend; it looks really good.

Can anyone who has climbed it please give their opinion.

nmonteith

16-Jun-2010
11:38:23 AM

It's quite fun and a bit unique. Start is the usual nice orange scoopy grampians rock then once you turn the lip the holds turn strange. Little pokey out nubbins which are quite different to normal sandstone. Quite sustained and well protected.

ajfclark

16-Jun-2010
11:47:56 AM

Sandstone? Grampians? So this is at Red Rock Pinnacles not Red Rock? Could the thread title and sub location be corrected or am I the only one that finds this confusing?

dalai

16-Jun-2010
12:10:03 PM

No confusion as there is only a route of that name and grade at the Grampians cliff. Hence why when I moved it to the Crag and Route beta section I added the location as such...

ajfclark

16-Jun-2010
12:17:30 PM

Of course if you already know the route is in the Grampians of course there's no confusion.

If you don't know that there's a route at Rock Rock Pinnacles by this name, what in the thread title tells you it's in the Grampians and not off near Ararat somewhere?

JDB

16-Jun-2010
12:48:28 PM

On 16/06/2010 Nmonteith wrote:
>It's quite fun and a bit unique. Start is the usual nice orange scoopy
>grampians rock then once you turn the lip the holds turn strange. Little
>pokey out nubbins which are quite different to normal sandstone. Quite
>sustained and well protected.

Thanks Neil. As you are the first ascentionist / creator I was hoping for your input.
Do I need to take any gear other than draws ?

dalai

16-Jun-2010
1:10:10 PM

On 16/06/2010 ajfclark wrote:
>If you don't know that there's a route at Rock Rock Pinnacles by this
>name, what in the thread title tells you it's in the Grampians and not
>off near Ararat somewhere?

Since it's asking about beta for a specific route, if you didn't know that Conflict of Interest was at the Grampians crag you wouldn't be able to offer beta anyway... ;-)

I've added Grampians to the topic title just to help clarify it to avoid any further confusion.

KP

16-Jun-2010
2:40:01 PM

Hi JDB,

I have done this route a few times now, i actually think its a pretty sweet route. It seems people think its a totally sweet route or diss it, there is no inbetween. Kinda like the movie Napolian Dynamite.

Sweet.

WM

16-Jun-2010
2:52:18 PM

1 star is about right imo. its not a waste of time, but it's no classic either

Hugh

16-Jun-2010
4:33:00 PM

just blew your onsite....

ajfclark

16-Jun-2010
4:34:58 PM

On 16/06/2010 Hugh wrote:
>just blew your onsite....

How can you climb anything other than onsite?

One Day Hero

16-Jun-2010
5:03:00 PM

On 16/06/2010 KP wrote:
>
>I have done this route a few times now, i actually think its a pretty
>sweet route. It seems people think its a totally sweet route or diss it,
>there is no inbetween. Kinda like the movie Napolian Dynamite.
>
Man, I really don't like Napoleon Dynamite.......two funny sketches and a whole lot of unfunny ones cobbled together so it feels like a sketch show rather than a film.....why do people rate this turkey?

a little aside which you might find funny.....actually, probably not;

I'm fighting an uphill battle to remember biology stuff for an upcoming exam, was recommended to come up with silly little mnemonics.

Anyway, long story short, the first thing which popped into my head for the series Kingdom, Phylum, Class, Order, Family, Genus, Species is...............

Kent Paterson Can Only F**k Gigantic Slappers

............sorry, I swear it just popped in there, now its stuck :/

climbingjac

17-Jun-2010
3:57:56 PM

Depends what kind of information you want - beta, or simply it's nice, or it is not nice.

IMO, it's a great climb. I've not encountered anyone that has tried it that disliked it - which is true whether they send or otherwise.

If you don't want beta, stop reading here.

Personally, I dislike face climbs. Yet this one I find really nice. You're on the thing thinking jeezus, grey grey and more grey. Why can this not be red rock where the chalk lights up the way. I cannot see which of all this is actually a feasible hold. There is nothing to tell you where you probably have to go left or right a bit, or just go straight up. Even the bolts are hard to see because the rock is grey. So you step up and reach up to where you think a hold would be convenient and bam, there's a feasible hold. And this process repeats to the top. Engaging all the way, but it's all there.

Mr Milk

17-Jun-2010
9:46:24 PM

On 16/06/2010 One Day Hero wrote:

Kingdom, Phylum, Class, Order, Family, Genus, Species is...............
>
>Kent Paterson Can Only F**k Gigantic Slappers
>
>............sorry, I swear it just popped in there, now its stuck :/

Ha!

There are 14 messages in this topic.