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Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Grampians	Northern	Hollow Mountain & Surrounds	(General)	[ Grampians Guide \| Images ]

Author

Info required for new Mt Stapylton/Hollow Mt Guide


nmonteith

1-Jul-2005
3:19:42 PM

I am currently in the process of re-writing and compiling a new guide to the Hollow Mtn side of Mt
Stapylton. I am not sure what the exact format of the end product will be (internet, print, PDF). It will
be a comprehensive guide to ALL of the routes in the area stretching from VD Land all the way to
Guerenica Block and includes Red Wall, and Golden Showers area.

I am after ANY information about new routes, bad bolts, sandbag grades, routes that require more
stars, HISTORY about anything and even some nice photos - especially ones with historical interest.

I will also require several proof readers to check the final text - if you know this area well then please
contact me and I can arrange print-outs of the info for cross-checking.

Send anything to nmonteith (at) yahoo.com

Thanks,

Neil Monteith

dalai

1-Jul-2005
4:53:16 PM

Good to hear Neil. Best of luck with the project!


alrob

1-Jul-2005
5:13:11 PM

On 1/07/2005 nmonteith wrote:
>I am after ANY information about new routes, bad bolts, sandbag grades,

weebling! weebling! weebling! that bloody peice of shit sandbag blank gritty grade 21 slab weebling!....don't even ACKNOWLEDGE its existence neil!


nmonteith

1-Jul-2005
5:14:34 PM

2: Weebling 25m 21 [Old School]
You either love it or hate it.
Climbs the blank face right of Guernica with several BR's.
Desperate crimping, sketchy mantles and badly placed bolts makes this an adventure for anyone.
Traverse despertaly left at the third bolt and finish up Guernica's sandy arete.

he! he!


alrob

1-Jul-2005
5:22:34 PM

i'm not laughing neil


alrob

1-Jul-2005
5:22:49 PM


nmonteith

11-Jul-2005
4:23:20 PM

....bump te bump....

I got some great info from Kieran and Bill, but nothing else. I have compiled and re-written all the
descriptions and created 20+ photo topos so far. I have found a few repeats written up as new routes, the
big bad one was Amnesia (17) at Amnesty Wall. This popular sport route was most likley climbed by
Keith Lockwood and Ray Lassman only 12 months before Dianne Fermie and Matt Brooks bolted it. The
original name of 'No Fixed Gear' isn't so apt now!


IdratherbeclimbingM9

12-Jul-2005
11:03:56 AM

I wonder how Keith and Ray feel about the retro-bolting?

dalai

12-Jul-2005
11:44:40 AM

On 12/07/2005 M8iswhereitsat wrote:
>I wonder how Keith and Ray feel about the retro-bolting?

That depends if they wrote it up? If they didn't make the FA details public, then they can't have issues about the second 'FA'.

jiminy cricket

12-Jul-2005
11:55:53 AM

On 11/07/2005 nmonteith wrote:

> I have found a few repeats written up as new routes, the big bad one was Amnesia (17)...
>...The original name of 'No Fixed Gear' isn't so apt now!

although in light of the above, at least the new name is!


nmonteith

12-Jul-2005
12:12:48 PM

On 12/07/2005 dalai wrote:
>That depends if they wrote it up? If they didn't make the FA details public,
>then they can't have issues about the second 'FA'.

They wrote it up in the VCC Argus mag. This was prior to the VCC new routes being made 'public' on the
new routes page of their website. Hopefully having an up-to-date online guide will solve future problems
such as this one.


shiltz

27-Jul-2005
8:51:48 AM

Sent some information through, hope its useful.


Gunta Skirtpulla

27-Jul-2005
11:57:28 AM

Neil & Dalai,
Do you guys know if anyone is going to produce or is in the process of producing a proper guide for
bouldering in the area ?

cheers


nmonteith

19-Aug-2005
9:37:28 AM

Is it Andersons, Andersens (as per thecrag.com), Anderson's or Andersen's??

Gunta, there will be space put aside for anyone willing to write a bouldering guide! Alister Roberston has
expressed interest.


Super Saiyan

19-Aug-2005
11:29:56 AM

Put my name down for helping to develop the bouldering guide. I'll do whatever it takes to get a guide I can make sense of!

James


nmonteith

19-Aug-2005
11:56:50 AM

I need someone to do the hard research. That is the big problem, most of the names & grades are only
known by a select few. The best method is to narrow in on one easy to do area (lets say Loopys for
example). Get all the info together, including brief history, first ascent dates, problem names. If possible
take some high quality topo photos. Once you have these send it to me and I can add it into the guide.
Once that is done and a formula is created we can move onto the really complex areas like Anderons
and the bloody confusing Hollow Mtn Cave.


nmonteith

22-Aug-2005
10:50:09 PM

A research question:

There is a lone FH on a carrot bolt on the face between Koalasqatsy (21) and Ooh Ooh Aah Aah (23) at
Cut Lunch Walls. The bolt appears ot be at least 10 years old. I have not been able to find a route
decription for this line - maybe it has never been done? Anyone? Anyone?

kieranl

23-Aug-2005
6:35:47 PM

I don't know anything about that one Neil. Maybe a relic of Dave Vass. The other people doing new routes in that area were the Van Dieman's Land developers but they tended not to use carrots.

robin

5-Sep-2005
7:15:34 PM

We did Clicke Crack on the weekend and thought it deserved a star. Classic old school jamming with surprising foot holds. Tape would have been very usefull and big cams were essential (for the non-Carrigans' of this world). Solid for the grade but probably fair for that style of climbing


nmonteith

6-Sep-2005
2:54:40 PM

Thanks Robin. I have added that into the guide.

Next research question...

Anyone know a name/grade/FFA details for the ringbolted arete just left of Crossfire on Epsilon Wall. It
was bolted by a mystery 'Simon' in about 2003.

There are 31 messages in this topic.