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stick clipping knot


Phil S

3-May-2004
6:46:12 PM

>On 3/05/2004 WM wrote:
>...yes Phil S if a sportclimbers brain is too peeny...

Bad people call me puny quite regularly... but this is the first time "peeny" has been used against me. What's it mean?

kieranl

3-May-2004
11:24:46 PM

I did read the original post where the stick-clip was described as a two stage process, first you clip the draw to the piece, then you clip the rope into the draw.
Whatever.
The classic stick-clip is to lightly tape a krab in gate open position to a stick and have the rope running through the krab. You hoist the krab up, hook it into the placement and then rip the stick out.
It doesn't matter whether the piece is a free-hanging draw, a bolt hanger, a wire or a sling.
With a quickdraw, you've got the problem of two krabs clipped together, OK while you're below but you'd need to reclip to be safe when you move higher.
As we are talking stick-clips we have to assume access to sticks. You can get one stick with a broken-off branch at the thick end and hook that into the krab. lightly tape the rope to a thin branch at the end of another stick. Use the branch to force open the krab gate and, when the rope is in the krab, rip the stick away and then remove the first stick.
Knots are more interesting but duct-tape is very effective.

James

4-May-2004
10:05:33 AM

can I confuse the issue even more?? apparently when you have your 'draw on the 1st bolt & you want to bail, 'draws with wire gate 'biners can be retreived using a sharpened stick & tension from the rope without having to leave a 'bail biner' behind. Obviously this will only be necessary in certain circumstances.... ie FHs not ring bolts, 1st bolt out of reach etc


anthonyk

4-May-2004
11:06:00 AM

On 1/05/2004 kieranl wrote:
>I didn't think a stick clip was such a difficult issue.
>This thread proves me wrong..

i think any kind of innocent question will somehow turn into a complex discussion on chockstone ;)

on the topic of clipping without tape (which was the reason i asked in the first place since often i don't have the stuff with me), another way is to jam the pointy end of the stick (assuming its small enough) through the top loop of the sling on the draw, ie the loop that the straight-gate is attached to. of course this assumes the sling has a pretty small loop as well, but should be fine with most sport draws. it won't work with broader loops like on long slings, but then again, whats a trad-hippy doing making a stick clip??

;)


Rich

4-May-2004
1:09:29 PM

nah i think kieran means that you steady the bottom biner of the already clipped draw with a hooked stick with one hand, ie tensioning it, and then with the other hand, force another stick with the rope attached (by tape) into the gate, then pull the sticks out. i can see how that would work.

4-May-2004
1:38:57 PM

ah yes I think you're right thanks Rich
still, those methods need tape and/or 2 sticks - the knot only needs one stick!!

kieranl

4-May-2004
10:13:36 PM

That was all I could work out on the spur of the moment.
I can see how to do it with a couple of sticks but I haven't figured out the knot system yet.
I always have some tape in my pack because I have a suspect tendon. You should also have a first-aid kit on hand which should provide the necessary tools.

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