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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 1 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 59
Author
Bolt removed at Denison Crag on Ben Lomond
gerryn
15-Jan-2010
1:18:49 PM
While climbing Aqualung on Denison Crag the other day, I noticed a bolt on the face to the left about 3 pitches up. The bolt has now been removed. A reminder that Ben Lomond is a bolt free zone.
Wollemi
15-Jan-2010
1:29:16 PM
I have no familiarity with the crag - can you rationalise your actions?
Some may have found the courage to persevere with such refuge in hand.
widewetandslippery
15-Jan-2010
1:35:01 PM
Someone put 1 bolt in a 3 pitch route? Tight arsed selfish lazy piece of shit arseholes. That line should of had at least 20 if not 40. Are you going to bolt it properly or leave your work half done?
rightarmbad
15-Jan-2010
2:23:29 PM
I could rationalize his actions.
There are thousands of lines down there.
Most are yet to be climbed.
Why bolt anything while so many exist to be done without them?

wallwombat
15-Jan-2010
3:33:33 PM
On 15/01/2010 gerryn wrote:
>While climbing Aqualung on Denison Crag the other day, I noticed a bolt
>on the face to the left about 3 pitches up. The bolt has now been removed.

This is an outrage! Was robertsonja consulted?
Fish Boy
15-Jan-2010
5:50:44 PM
How many logins names does gerry have!

Phil Box
15-Jan-2010
9:13:39 PM
We have decided that there will now be a rap station put in on top of Frews Flutes to minimise the environmental degradation on the decent routes that are now becoming superhighways. The delicate bonsai gardens are being crushed underfoot, it is therefore imperative that before we head back to Queensland we do this valuable community service. Don't thank us, it's the least we can do. Anchors shall be 16mm SS glue ins to prevent vandalism.
Tris
16-Jan-2010
12:24:21 AM
I think a set of rap anchors are a great idea to stop environmental destruction.

It's quite simple really.

wallwombat
16-Jan-2010
12:30:46 AM
On 16/01/2010 Tris wrote:
>I think a set of rap anchors are a great idea to stop environmental destruction.

Shall we run a book on how long they last before they get the chop?

Snappy
16-Jan-2010
11:00:34 AM
Yet the hideous amounts of tats left at the top of climbs is acceptable? I agree with the bolt-free idea in theory but there are limits...

wallwombat
16-Jan-2010
11:37:31 AM
On 16/01/2010 Snappy wrote:
>Yet the hideous amounts of tats left at the top of climbs is acceptable?
>I agree with the bolt-free idea in theory but there are limits...

Fanatics do not accept reason and they do not accept limits.

freesolo
20-Jan-2010
3:21:09 AM
the ben is one of my favorite areas in the world to climb, but it is absolutely absurd to damage the flora walking down when a few rap stations (hardware painted to blend in with the rock) can 1. protect the natural beauty and 2. make it way safer to bail in bad weather.

i hate the lines of bolts at organ pipes in hobart; that is a travesty and shame for all climbers, but gerry needs to chill out about the rap stations on the ben. everything in moderation.
tastybigmac
20-Jan-2010
8:47:59 AM
next time you are at the crag have a look around. what is more ugly, the line of bolts on a route or the
dirty big stripe of deforestation you walked in on?
simey
20-Jan-2010
8:51:54 AM
Although I agree with the concept of the Ben being bolt-free, the walk-down from Frews Flutes seems exceptionally prone to damage and erosion.

I think some well considered rap bolts are the lesser of the two evils.
citationx
20-Jan-2010
10:53:50 AM
On 20/01/2010 simey wrote:
>Although I agree with the concept of the Ben being bolt-free, the walk-down
>from Frews Flutes seems exceptionally prone to damage and erosion.
>
>I think some well considered rap bolts are the lesser of the two evils.
>

see this thread and posts by "Doug Bruce": http://www.chockstone.org/forum/Forum.asp?Action=DisplayTopic&ForumID=1&MessageID=45000&PagePos=&Sort=&Replies=115&MsgPagePos=40


Perhaps there should be a REAL, DOCUMENTED consultation between climbers in tassie and the ranger(s) in question in order to establish whether or not Rap bolts should be installed in one or more key areas in order to reduce the environmental damage to the fragile alpine environment and plants that exists up on top of the flutes. That way we can see once and for all whether or not rap bolts should be there and Gerry may have to get off his highhorse and stop chopping bolts because he's crowned himself the ultimate protector of the ben.
Listening to a story last year from a tasmanian climber Gerry originally installed the rap bolts then removed them when said climber gave him a bit of an earbashing for Gerry to claim the ben to be bolt free.. Except for rap bolts, and that it should either be completely bolt free or allow bolts.
(personally I think in this case it's fair to claim the ben to be bolt free except for rap bolts due to the extremely fragile tasmania alpine plants at the top of the flutes).

Anyway, BRING ON THE INQUISITION!!! I mean, CONSULTATION!!
widewetandslippery
20-Jan-2010
11:12:52 AM
I think becoming involved with any institution of control unless totally necessary is a bad idea.

To quote Tolstoy "the government is violence".

Keep the bush peaceful.
hotgemini
20-Jan-2010
11:21:17 AM
widewetandslippery, I have to politely disagree, that approach to land-manager to climber relations has repeated shown itself to fail (take the 'secret cave' area on mt. flinders for a recent exampe), proactive engagement which clearly pegs out the legitimacy of climber's as important stakeholders within the outdoor estate is the future.
citationx
20-Jan-2010
11:27:58 AM
On 20/01/2010 widewetandslippery wrote:
>I think becoming involved with any institution of control unless totally
>necessary is a bad idea.
>
>To quote Tolstoy "the government is violence".
>
>Keep the bush peaceful.

I think given Gerry's "activism" of constantly removing every bolt everytime one is put in by someone indicates the need for an official body to decide what can and cannot be done. Who is Gerry to constantly remove other people's work without consultation of the broader climbing community, which over the years has been shown to be exactly what he does? there is no official word on bolt-free ben other than Gerry declaring it so. Time for an official stance from proper bodies, again, especially in relation to bolt stations on for the descent off frews flutes. I'm sure that given the choice between having two or three official rap stations on frews flutes and tramping across the top of them DPIWE (or whatever it is in tassie) will choose bolts, not to mention the same choice by climbers!

IdratherbeclimbingM9
20-Jan-2010
11:38:48 AM
On 20/01/2010 citationx wrote:
>I'm sure that given the choice between having two or three official rap stations on frews flutes and tramping across the top of them DPIWE (or whatever it is in tassie) will choose bolts, not to mention the same choice by climbers!


Hmm.
That is not what NPWS did for climbing at Sydney Harbour NP. They took the easier for them(?) but draconian option of banning climbing instead. The equivalent also happened recently in Qld with the climbs in the cave...
J.C.
20-Jan-2010
11:45:21 AM
An official stance from proper bodies sounds like a whole heap of bullshit, why can't we just allow the locals & active climbers in the area to come to an agreement about the management of the crags.
It seems largely agreed that a single rap station to avoid the erosion issues is certainly the lesser of the two evils & that such a rap station needs only be an isolated instance. I agree that the climbs should remain bolt free & I'm quite happy for Gerry or whoever to continue to chop any bolts that are placed in lieu of testicles. My opinion is that a rap station doesn't need to be considered evil nor any kind of collapsing dam wall. Ultimately though, it's the local climbers who will decide, for better or worse, what is gonna go down.

 Page 1 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 59
There are 59 messages in this topic.

 

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