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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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Author
The official stoked thread!

pmonks
4-Aug-2009
9:05:45 AM
On 3/08/2009 rodw wrote:
>If your scared just go hide in the closet..thats the next step anyway.

I'm already there! And there are all these posters of a young Val Kilmer with "I love you Iceman" scrawled on them! WHAT'S HAPPENING TO ME?!?!?!?!
dalai
Online Now
4-Aug-2009
10:26:24 AM
Was up in Wangaratta on Sunday racing a time trial, so took off Monday from work and rode in beautiful winter sun from Myrtleford to the Mt Buffalo Chalet return. Climbing of a different sort ;-)

ajfclark
4-Aug-2009
10:27:45 AM
On 4/08/2009 pmonks wrote:
>I'm already there! And there are all these posters of a young Val Kilmer with "I love you Iceman" scrawled on them! WHAT'S HAPPENING TO ME?!?!?!?!

Sounds like a highway to some kind of dangerous area or zone...
mikl law
4-Aug-2009
12:12:26 PM
On 4/08/2009 dalai wrote:
>Was up in Wangaratta on Sunday racing a time trial, so took off Monday
>from work and rode in beautiful winter sun from Myrtleford to the Mt Buffalo
>Chalet return. Climbing of a different sort ;-)
I used to live in Wang in 1974 and ride up to go climbing. I guess I was fit then. nce I rode up to The Cathedral, climbed and back home in one day.
dalai
Online Now
4-Aug-2009
1:08:15 PM
On 4/08/2009 mikl law wrote:
>I used to live in Wang in 1974 and ride up to go climbing. I guess I was
>fit then. nce I rode up to The Cathedral, climbed and back home in one
>day.

Impressive Claw. Now that's dedication!!!

Sarah Gara
4-Aug-2009
9:40:36 PM
Musique wrote:
> You can walk to the pub from some of the sites out here!

Most of the sites...That is often the most important point. The KMC (manchester club) base their mid week meets on proximity to decent pub.
>
>When are you getting back to the UK, Sara?

Oh not for a good wee while I'd say 15yrs or so... too cold and wet for my liking. I have a 2yr contract in Robinvale..but already keeping my eye out for jobs around Horsham.

Have you got enough people to climb with there? and where are you? did I read somewhere Hathersage? I can put you in touch with my boyfriend if you like. He's based in Manchester but often at the peak and out most weekends. He's in the CC too -and therefore access to the CC hut in the pass in llanberis.

You been to sea cliffs in Wales yet? x

Sarah Gara
4-Aug-2009
9:43:48 PM
On 4/08/2009 pmonks wrote:

>I'm already there! And there are all these posters of a young Val Kilmer
>with "I love you Iceman" scrawled on them!

mmmm a young val kilmer -does it for me in Real Genius(mot sure of this name may possibly be true genius), but did think he was as cute in Top gun. and now? no thanks... x

BoulderBaby
5-Aug-2009
6:22:54 AM

>Have you got enough people to climb with there? and where are you? did
>I read somewhere Hathersage? I can put you in touch with my boyfriend if
>you like. He's based in Manchester but often at the peak and out most weekends.
> He's in the CC too -and therefore access to the CC hut in the pass in
>llanberis.
>
>You been to sea cliffs in Wales yet? x


I haven't got a climbing partner as everyone prefers to boulder if they can!
I'm living in sheffield, and working in hathersage - but unfortunately I work the weekends (Gahh, working in a gear shop in a town surrounded by crags!!)


Getting back to being stoked... I'm going climbing at the Roaches Tomorrow-- if weather permits!



Sarah Gara
5-Aug-2009
5:12:00 PM
That's terrible - I hated working weekends - but at least when you do get to climb it's not packed.

Musique wrote:
>- if weather permits!

ha ha -when you back in Oz?

Roaches: do Valkyrie. think it's a VS proper classic supposed to be fantastic - I've never climbed at the roaches but that's the route I fancied -just never made it there.

I'll pass your details on to Mike and get him to pass them on to Carrie a girl who lives in Doncaster but she's obsessed too. They both have weekends off but I bet you can get the occasional one off? Mike climbs with a fair few students -lazy buggers! so he can prob put you in touch with them too. x


gordoste
7-Aug-2009
12:16:58 PM
Stoked that I managed to successfully troll wallwombat on his Pissed Off thread!

wallwombat
7-Aug-2009
12:24:48 PM
You're lucky you got me while I was pissed off

pmonks
7-Aug-2009
3:00:32 PM
Absolutely f'ing stoked to be heading up to Tuolomne Meadows tomorrow! I'm hoping to be blown away by "Blown Away" (modern 5.9 on Daff Dome) and hope to be crying with joy on "Cryin' Time Again" (old school 5.10a on Lembert Dome). You fuggin' beauty!!!!
WM
7-Aug-2009
3:45:39 PM
shouldn't you be hitting up a real dome like Dafdaff? lucky streaks looks good ...
Fish Boy
7-Aug-2009
4:14:17 PM
pmonks, have you been reading the cryin time stuff on supertopo of recent?
olbert
7-Aug-2009
4:44:52 PM
Stoked-its the weekend

ajfclark
7-Aug-2009
6:14:17 PM
Stoked I finally got some techy coding stuff on my todo list done.

pmonks
8-Aug-2009
3:25:50 AM
On 7/08/2009 WM wrote:
>shouldn't you be hitting up a real dome like Dafdaff? lucky streaks looks
>good ...

Your report of 2 good pitches followed by endless easy slabbing didn't exactly whet my appetite. ;-)

But still, Dafdaff Dome is such an impressive chunk of rock that it's inevitable I'll get on it one day. If only I had the strength, skill and cajones to have a lash at the Bachar-Yerian - it looks insane! Without any of those three it seems rather unlikely though. :-(

pmonks
8-Aug-2009
3:27:31 AM
On 7/08/2009 Fish Boy wrote:
>pmonks, have you been reading the cryin time stuff on supertopo of recent?

I haven't no, but I might as well do that now instead of finishing up at work... ;-)

[edit] If you're referring to the thread about the recent addition of rap anchors then I'm not interested - when it comes to bolting issues the seppos are, almost to a person, completely retarded.

They'll praise some ridiculously bolted route, provided the bolts were put in on lead (eg. "Solid Gold" in Joshua Tree - #$^&ing terrible bolting!!!), then slam someone for putting in rap anchors on an existing super-popular trade route 5 minutes from the car ("Cryin Time Again"), even though modern rap anchors exist on nearby routes (eg. the "Water Cracks"). And all we're talking about here are rap anchors on the existing (bolted!) belays - not the addition of new lead bolts!!

At least in Australia we've come to realise that, when done properly, bolting on abseil usually results in far better quality routes (fewer bolts, better located, and likely placed properly since you're not panicked that the skyhook you're bolting from is about to blow off). The seppos somehow think that bolting on lead is the pinnacle of the sport, not realising that it makes permanent the idiosyncracies of the first ascent party (ie. how bold they were feeling on the day, where the traversed to to try to find gear, where their rope reached to and they were forced to belay, where they stopped to take a piss, etc. etc.). This is probably a topic for THE OFFICIAL PISSED OFF THREAD, cause it makes me see red!!!!

BoulderBaby
12-Aug-2009
7:51:11 AM
I'm stoked because today I met Ben Moon..
and completely embarrassed myself in the meanwhile.. I think he may be a bit scared oh me now.

D.Lodge
13-Aug-2009
4:31:37 PM
Awesome Musique, i met him a couple of years ago and it took all my self control not too get him in a headlock and get my mate too take a photo of us together. But he did yell advice to me while i was bouldering. Super nice bloke though

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