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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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Author
The official stoked thread!
WM
17-May-2009
2:24:58 PM
stoked that someone was nice enough to pin a certain lost teddy bear up on the pines notice board. thanks very much
Olbert
17-May-2009
8:48:14 PM
On 17/05/2009 WM wrote:
>stoked that someone was nice enough to pin a certain lost teddy bear up
>on the pines notice board. thanks very much
I remember when I left my monkey at a motel halfway to Queensland. I remembered about an hour and a half's into the journey. I remember being very very relieved, with a tear in my eye, as me and mum pulled back into the motel (Dad and my brothers had stayed at the town we reached and played a round of golf).

wallwombat
18-May-2009
8:57:39 PM
Stoked I scored a Warthog ice screw on Ebay for $5.50.

Perfect for banging into frozen turf, when I eventually get some time off to go to the Darrans in winter.

Which probably means I'll never use it.
rod
19-May-2009
1:30:05 AM
Well done on the recent sends Olbert!

Stoked, sent Wolfgang Gullich will post TR shortly in the Sard thread.

pmonks
19-May-2009
1:33:48 AM
Stoked that I got to Araps over the weekend. Even more stoked that we did "Poppies" on the Bard Buttress - what a great route!

evanbb
19-May-2009
9:04:14 AM
All sorts of things to be stoked and unstoked about today.

Stoked with my ride to work. I was warmed up after squash and 'ticked some projects' on the ride in. Starting to feel like I'm riding the little bike, rather than the other way around.

Unstoked about the lead course I'll be doing at the Canberra gym tonight. Preparing to have my intelligence roundly insulted. Apparently it takes 2.5 hours, and involves a video, rope log and detailed belay lessons. The draws are bolted to the wall FFS!

Unstoked about Pierces Creek/Forest, which is now an unworkable/unnavigable pile of choss in the post fire regrowth.

I had something else I was stoked about, to balance it out, but I can't remember. I'll finish off then with a general stokedness about Canberra, autumn, and hard ticking conditions.

pmonks
19-May-2009
9:07:56 AM
On 19/05/2009 evanbb wrote:
>I had something else I was stoked about, to balance it out, but I can't
>remember.

Stoked at how awesome the latest batch of weed is, perhaps? ;-)
gfdonc
19-May-2009
9:12:16 AM
On 19/05/2009 pmonks wrote:
>Stoked that I got to Araps over the weekend. Even more stoked that we
>did "Poppies" on the Bard Buttress - what a great route!

Second that. Poppies is underrated IMHO. The 'direct' start (left of Bard) also looks unprotected but takes a wire and small cam.

evanbb
19-May-2009
9:15:36 AM
On 19/05/2009 pmonks wrote:

>Stoked at how awesome the latest batch of weed is, perhaps? ;-)

I wish I could aneswer Yes to that. Dry times. I'm just moving in the wrong circles these days.

pmonks
19-May-2009
9:29:42 AM
On 19/05/2009 gfdonc wrote:
>Second that. Poppies is underrated IMHO.

Totally - I'd give it a solid 2 stars any day!

> The 'direct' start (left of Bard) also looks unprotected but takes a wire and small cam.

Yeah it rained all day Friday and we didn't like the look of all that moss so we started up near Eurydice.

Just out of interest, on the second pitch did you move right above the initial bulge / rooflet to the obvious line a metre or two in from the arete? The guide seems to indicate that you go straight up the guts of that gorgeous red wall, and while the moves look great it doesn't look like you'd get much pro unless you moved right to the more obvious line to place it (which seems a bit contrived).

JimboV10
19-May-2009
9:33:35 AM
Stoked about

1x La Sportiva Solution - White - size 40
1x Black Diamond Camalot C4 - #0.3 - Blue
2 x Black Diamond Camalot C4 - #1 - Red
2 x Black Diamond Camalot C4 - #2 - Yellow
1 x Black Diamond Camalot C4 - #3 - Blue

$610AUD delivered to my door brand new!

evanbb
19-May-2009
9:47:00 AM
On 19/05/2009 JimboV10 wrote:
>Stoked about
>Boulderer buying cams.....
>$610AUD delivered to my door brand new!

What are you going to do with those? Aid bouldering? Might have to edit your username to something like JimboV10/trad17/sport23/M6

JimboV10
19-May-2009
10:00:25 AM
On 19/05/2009 evanbb wrote:
>On 19/05/2009 JimboV10 wrote:
>>Stoked about
>>Boulderer buying cams.....
>>$610AUD delivered to my door brand new!
>
>What are you going to do with those? Aid bouldering? Might have to edit
>your username to something like JimboV10/trad17/sport23/M6

give me some credit V10/trad21/sport26/M0 lol

I dont mind the trad adventure, just need some more gear to do some mixed routes! Plus when I only have two days off I wanna get lots done, instead of just 1 or 2 routes...

But a sick deal nonetheless!
gfdonc
19-May-2009
10:54:24 AM
On 19/05/2009 pmonks wrote:
>Just out of interest, on the second pitch did you move right above the
>initial bulge / rooflet to the obvious line a metre or two in from the
>arete? The guide seems to indicate that you go straight up the guts of
>that gorgeous red wall, and while the moves look great it doesn't look
>like you'd get much pro unless you moved right to the more obvious line
>to place it (which seems a bit contrived).

Unfortunately my leader (who actually didn't realise she was on Poppies at the time, but that's another story) went up the initial wall then headed off into Eurydice. So I haven't done all of that pitch, but it does look good. Where did you go?

pmonks
19-May-2009
2:37:02 PM
After the initial move through the bulge I traversed horizontally right with my feet just above the lip of the roof for a couple of metres, then headed basically straight up all the way to the Bard Terrace. Initially it looks a bit blank and unprotected, but there's plenty of gear and quite a few rests too. The best bit it's on gorgeous rock, has good moves and is in a truly awesome position - right out on the front arete of the Bard Buttress!

I couldn't help thinking that linking the first pitch of Eurydice with the second pitch of Poppies would make an awesome 2 pitch climb, with pitches of equal difficulty but completely different character. The overall grade would be more even that way too (two pitches of fairly sustained 18), and you'd avoid the looseness of Poppies P1 and the moderate rambling (after the first couple of moves) of Eurydice P2.

wallwombat
25-May-2009
6:41:37 PM
I lost my job today (see gutted thread)

Viewing this with an optimistic eye, this means I now have a lot more time to climb.

So, in 2 weeks I will be able to say yes to ropeddonkey when he asks me to go bolting/climbing at Tianjara on a weekday.

I also, may get a chance to use my newly purchased Warthog ice screw this winter.

I also might be able to make a long delayed return to Arapiles.

Maybe I'll go and solo something on the north wall of Buffalo in winter. Considering I'm miserable already, being cold and wet wont have as much of an effect on me.

I'm I sounding stoked yet?

I thought not.
rod
26-May-2009
3:43:12 AM
now that's something to be stoked about wallwombat! get on a plane to europe and live the escapist dream for a while, i leave here 9 sept.

BoulderBaby
26-May-2009
7:37:51 AM
I'm stoked that I now have a job in Hathersage, Sheffield!
rod
26-May-2009
10:29:51 PM
Great, tell us when you get a place to stay and we'll all turn up to have a crack at Deliverance! What's the job?

BoulderBaby
27-May-2009
4:50:52 AM
At "The Square Shop' which is owned by outsides, but not as pro.

The place I'm staying in right now has 2 spare rooms, with double beds, and a fairly decent backyard...


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There are 1982 messages in this topic.

 

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