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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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Author
The official stoked thread!
Wendy
9-Apr-2010
12:52:52 PM
On 9/04/2010 Sarah Gara wrote:

>
>I'm also stoked that I've settled so well in Oz and am glad that I can't
>wait to get back - big change form August/Sept when I hated it hey?
>



When is the much anticipated move into Nati?
Auspep
9-Apr-2010
1:55:10 PM
Stoked my GF has FINALLY submitted her Phd!! Time to climb...

Congrats Kato!

Sarah Gara
9-Apr-2010
8:37:50 PM
On 9/04/2010 Wendy wrote:
>
>When is the much anticipated move into Nati?

Officially I've already moved. Get back on the 22nd April though just in time for Goatfest - should be good. If you are around I'll bob over for coffee at some point. If you're not of jet setting that is! x
WM
9-Apr-2010
9:08:09 PM
On 8/04/2010 Wendy wrote:
>>I tend to agree with Wendy re a likely decline in climbing grades (at
>least initially), due the boldness element is curbed when you become responsible
>for others.
>
>I wasn't even thinking about grades or boldness ... just simple things
>like time and sleep which are quite conducive to being able to go climbing.

my climbing has actually significantly improved since kids. most of my 25s and 26s, and all my 27s, have been post kids.
yes the occasional bout of sleep deprivation can affect things.
yes I have toned it down a lot on the boldness scale. (3 cheers for preplaced gear, bolts, and stick clips!).

the key benefit IMO is that having kids actually forced me to get organised. My week is now much more scheduled, which means i know exactly what my training window is. I also know that if I don't go there's no second chance to train for the rest of the week. Talk about a motivation to drag your arse off the couch. As a result I train at least 10 times MORE than when I was kidless and lazy and could just say "I might go tomorrow instead" - which in the past lead to me not going to the gym for years at a time (literally!).

PS: to acknowledge the thread topic (sort of): I'm anti-stoked about the Grampians Bouldering Guide.
- it's actually a "NorthWest flank of the Mt Zero Range Bouldering Guide". Sure this is where to find a good concentration of grampians bouldering but the coverage would be less than 10% of the area of the grampians so its a very misleading title IMO!! The omission of the significant Vic Range areas is the thing that annoys me most
- the included areas are already ~80% covered (for free!) by the hard work of Steve Kelly and (forgethisname) on the online ACA guide. Ok so the print guide goes to slightly greater depth but it's merely an incremental layer of info on the already-described areas, there is definitely no great quantum leap of coverage. to me it smacks of taking the easy option - no wonder it was so quick to produce
- the grammar/typos/proof reading is shithouse (others might say this is to be expected from your average boulderer!! ;P )
- the pics and layout/design are good

i grabbed it in a rush one day without having a flick first. I think a 5 minute flick in the shop before buying would have convinced me to keep my money.

wallwombat
11-Apr-2010
4:13:52 PM
Stoked that my shoulder has healed well enough to climb again.

Stoked to have had another great weekend bouldering at Black Range. WW&S and I managed to find another new area and I managed to scare myself silly on three new highball problems.

However, I think I need to tie into a rope sometime soon. Otherwise I am in definite danger of becoming a full-time boulderer.
bl@ke
12-Apr-2010
6:48:36 PM
Stoked that my Yates ladder aiders have arrived !

diablo
12-Apr-2010
6:57:37 PM
Totally stoked that im now the Vice-President of the JCU Rock Climbing Club!!!! (North Queensland climbing club, based in townsville!)

evanbb
13-Apr-2010
6:09:18 AM
On 12/04/2010 diablo wrote:
>Totally stoked that im now the Vice-President of the JCU Rock Climbing
>Club!!!! (North Queensland climbing club, based in townsville!)

Are you allowed to climb that far north? I thought laws governing climbing in high humidity explicitly banned climbing.

On a related note, I'm stoked to no longer be the Department of Resorces, Energy and Tourism Social Club Treasurer. Clubs are usually, in my experience, a complete clusterf---, full of social misfits using the club to meet people. This was no exception.

Miguel75
13-Apr-2010
10:01:45 AM
Stoked my 10 day old baby is happy and healthy and that my wife ok'd a long weekend at Arapiles. Two good friends and a swag of new gear to try on the rock should make for a great time...
deadpoint
13-Apr-2010
10:41:30 PM
On 11/04/2010 wallwombat wrote:
>Stoked that my shoulder has healed well enough to climb again.
>
>Stoked to have had another great weekend bouldering at Black Range. WW&S
>and I managed to find another new area and I managed to scare myself silly
>on three new highball problems.
>
>However, I think I need to tie into a rope sometime soon. Otherwise I
>am in definite danger of becoming a full-time boulderer.

Was that you in the black 'bongo' van on Sunday 12.30 or so heading back to town.

If so we were the crew with the ute (with dog in back) and 4WD, we checked out the big boulder on the on the main peak of Black Range, it has some nice high balls, what's the aluminium ladder for hidden under the boulder????

wallwombat
13-Apr-2010
11:31:23 PM
Yeah, that was me and widewetandslippery.

We camped up there on Saturday night but decided to take off Sunday because it was so windy and the rock was a bit spoogey from the overnight rain.

I know where you are talking about. That's Chris Warner's stash. Last time I was up there there were two aluminium ladders and an old crash mat stashed up there. He may have taken one of the ladders home. Maybe he needed it on Everest.

And I wont tell my van, Warren, that you called him a "Bongo Van". He'd be devastated.

Sarah Gara
14-Apr-2010
7:19:08 AM
Your van is a boy? That's weird. x
Wendy
14-Apr-2010
7:46:25 AM
My van is a girl. Maybe WW and I are weird.

pmonks
14-Apr-2010
9:13:54 AM
On 14/04/2010 Wendy wrote:
>My van is a girl. Maybe WW and I are weird.

Well I for one think it's AWESOME!
Wendy
14-Apr-2010
6:46:28 PM
Actually, what would be really awesome is if boy van met girl van and had little baby vans because I think both of us could do with younger, healthier vans.

wallwombat
14-Apr-2010
6:48:28 PM
On 14/04/2010 Wendy wrote:
>Actually, what would be really awesome is if boy van met girl van and had
>little baby vans because I think both of us could do with younger, healthier
>vans.

Very true, Wendy.

Twins would be good.
deadpoint
14-Apr-2010
7:34:54 PM
>And I wont tell my van, Warren, that you called him a "Bongo Van". He'd
>be devastated.

wallwombats van looks pretty close to this love machine, if you know what I mean...

What does a wombat do in his warren?



wallwombat says 'Eats roots and leaves'



It took me about 30 seconds before the light bulb flashed!!!!

Ok about Chris's stash, there are some more boulders about 100m left and down
A lot easier then Chris's highball with a funky squeeze cave on a ledge.
I did not see any chalk so I guess that it has not been played on yet.



wallwombat
14-Apr-2010
8:41:58 PM
On 14/04/2010 deadpoint wrote:

>Ok about Chris's stash, there are some more boulders about 100m left and
>down
>A lot easier then Chris's highball with a funky squeeze cave on a ledge.
>I did not see any chalk so I guess that it has not been played on yet.

That first photo does look a bit like Warren.

Yeah, up where Chris has his stash looks impressive but nothing really works for me. A lot of Chris's problems are like that for me. I think it has something to do with me being stocky and wombat-like and Chris being really bloody tall.

Down the hill and to the left. 100m you say. There's a few good problems down there and more scattered all along that hillside above the road. There's some cracker jack problems on that hillside, actually.

You will probably only see chalk on the overhangs. Black Range sees so few visitors that nothing stays chalked for very long. widewetandslippery and I have been out there heaps of time and Chris is the only other boulderer we have seen, except some dude from Bungendore who drove up one evening, when we were camped, jumped out of his car, introduced himself and then buggered off again.

There is heaps of potential for new stuff out there, especially for sub V5 bouldering, which is why we have such a ball.

I'll will probably be out there again this weekend, beer in one hand, wire brush in the other.

Sarah Gara
14-Apr-2010
11:34:28 PM
Nah Wendy -It's normal to have a girl van - that's ok. Can I have one of the baby vans if they do mate?

Love the wombat pic. x
deadpoint
15-Apr-2010
10:03:18 AM
On 14/04/2010 Sarah Gara wrote:
>Nah Wendy -It's normal to have a girl van - that's ok. Can I have one
>of the baby vans if they do mate?
>
>Love the wombat pic. x

Have a look at this cutie.... she is currently snoozing in a bag hanging from the door knob




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