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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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Author
The official stoked thread!

evanbb
14-Dec-2009
2:33:45 PM
On 14/12/2009 Duncan wrote:
>I think Barrenjoey is a pretty underrated crag.

Really? I've only been there once and have no good memories of it. Sandy, humid. The only worse crag I've been to is Hospital Rocks at Nowra.

Monkeyboy
14-Dec-2009
2:49:21 PM
Its a great location - some great rock, some people may see the fact that there is
hardly any sports routes as a negative but there are heaps of trad routes from really
easy grades - all with really good top anchors - I will definitely be back there to hone my
trad skills

IdratherbeclimbingM9
14-Dec-2009
3:07:49 PM
On 14/12/2009 Duncan wrote:
>>I think Barrenjoey is a pretty underrated crag.

I agree

On 14/12/2009 evanbb wrote:
>Really? I've only been there once and have no good memories of it. Sandy,
>humid. The only worse crag I've been to is Hospital Rocks at Nowra.

Yes, but you also like bouldering at Black Range ;-)
Oh, and Barrenjoey is nothing like the granite of Booroomba!
Heh, heh, heh.

It is not a typical Sydney sea cliff, as it has a fair bit of good quality rock, and has a reasonable variety of route styles. There are also a number of 'developed' areas facing different aspects to help obtain/avoid sun/humidity (seasonally dependent), and the vistas from all of them are excellent.
I took it for granted when I lived in the area, but still used to get occasional afternoon sessions in on it, as well as introduce beginners to the game there on some weekends. At the time its major drawback in my opinion was that the routes are generally short (read half a rope-length covers most), and I regarded it as best suited as practise for longer stuff in the Blueys. Since those days I have climbed extensively elsewhere, and now often find myself climbing on half rope-length routes of lesser quality!

MonkeyBoy wrote;
>some people may see the fact that there is hardly any sports routes as a negative

In its earlier times 'sport climbing' as it is known today, did not exist at Barrenjoey. The early developers knew what happens to mild steel bash-in carrots in the salty sea air environment, so it was not a location that lent itself to that kind of development. From my perspective, development really only took off there with the advent of slcd's as they made usable the many horizontal breaks that were hitherto hard to use for protection.
The bolts that went in were mostly on the overhanging style climbs...

gordoste
14-Dec-2009
3:20:18 PM
On 14/12/2009 evanbb wrote:
>On 14/12/2009 Duncan wrote:
>>I think Barrenjoey is a pretty underrated crag.
>
>Really? I've only been there once and have no good memories of it. Sandy,
>humid. The only worse crag I've been to is Hospital Rocks at Nowra.

Warning evan, by dismissing it so easily you sound very pretentious. Maybe it was just a humid day and that spoilt it? It's easy to have a crappy experience anywhere in the wrong conditions.
Duncan
14-Dec-2009
3:48:05 PM
On 14/12/2009 evanbb wrote:
>On 14/12/2009 Duncan wrote:
>>I think Barrenjoey is a pretty underrated crag.
>
>Really? I've only been there once and have no good memories of it. Sandy,
>humid. The only worse crag I've been to is Hospital Rocks at Nowra.

Don't get me wrong, it's no Cosmic County. There's fun to be had though, it's an awesome spot, and you can go swimming afterwards.

evanbb
14-Dec-2009
4:27:55 PM
On 14/12/2009 gordoste wrote:
> easily you sound very pretentious. Maybe
>it was just a humid day and that spoilt it? It's easy to have a crappy
>experience anywhere in the wrong conditions.

No question at all, I'm totally being reactionary. I was there once for about an hour; we got lost being 'guided' in, couldn't make head nor tail of the routes, then the line I finally lead was good right up until the sandy top out. It was also in the sort of spot I was happy to write it off. Like Arapiles, which I keep finding reasons to hate, it was miles away from home, and there was heaps of good stuff in between. It was far more convenient to forget about it entirely and concentrate on what was at hand instead.

wallwombat
14-Dec-2009
7:18:53 PM
Stoked Stargate Universe starts tonight.


rodw
14-Dec-2009
7:33:24 PM
Its good wombat..been on Foxtel for 1st season this year and me likes it alot.

Stoked to find a crag worth bolting and thus sunk some steel on the weekend..not so stoked Im out for climbing for next 6 weeks...though stoked one of the reasons apart from Xmas stuff is because Ill be skiing in Colorado.

foreverabumbly
14-Dec-2009
9:37:40 PM
stoked I got my lazy behind up a v2, maybe bouldering isnt so bad.

evanbb
15-Dec-2009
5:47:28 AM
On 14/12/2009 foreverabumbly wrote:
>stoked I got my lazy behind up a v2, maybe bouldering isnt so bad.

Bouldering is awesome. If you're ever in Sydney I'll show you a V5 that will inflate your ego nicely.

pmonks
15-Dec-2009
8:35:36 AM
On 15/12/2009 evanbb wrote:
>Bouldering is awesome. If you're ever in Sydney I'll show you a V5 that
>will inflate your ego nicely.

Is it at The Frontline area at the Balkans? Some of the grades there are super soft - I did not one but TWO V5s there, after failing to get off the ground on a V3 at Sissy earlier in the week!
Mr Stu
15-Dec-2009
8:49:02 AM
On 15/12/2009 pmonks wrote:
>On 15/12/2009 evanbb wrote:
>Is it at The Frontline area at the Balkans? Some of the grades there
>are super soft - I did not one but TWO V5s there,

Let me guess - One of them must be Pincer Movement. That thing is about V2. Esp when compared to some of the other V5's there like Armistace Day, Macedomia and Arms Race.
widewetandslippery
15-Dec-2009
9:00:03 AM
I'm stoked I saw a goanna fall off a cliff. Love it when the wildlife spazes out.

wallwombat
15-Dec-2009
9:39:56 AM
On 15/12/2009 evanbb wrote:
>............ If you're ever in Sydney I'll show you a V5 that will inflate your ego nicely.

Evan. I've got news for you , mate. You live in Canberra.

Eduardo Slabofvic
15-Dec-2009
9:49:57 AM
I'm stoked that I don't have to climb on any more tufa and stalactite.

I'm also stoked that my left collar bone is somewhat dislocated and very painful.

I'm also stoked that I'm back at work today.

evanbb
15-Dec-2009
10:13:52 AM
On 15/12/2009 wallwombat wrote:
>On 15/12/2009 evanbb wrote:
>>............ If you're ever in Sydney I'll show you a V5 that will inflate
>your ego nicely.
>
>Evan. I've got news for you , mate. You live in Canberra.

Ah, that's true. I'll organise a detailed map and a local guide.

Sabu
18-Dec-2009
11:00:05 AM
I am officially stoked that after a month of anxious waiting I got accepted to do honours in
psychology next year at uni.

rodw
18-Dec-2009
11:04:46 AM
Stoked won touch footy GF for 3 years running, not bad for a bunch of old farts.

wallwombat
18-Dec-2009
11:12:54 AM
On 18/12/2009 Sabu wrote:
>I am officially stoked that after a month of anxious waiting I got accepted
>to do honours in
>psychology next year at uni.

Congratulations, Sabu.

On 18/12/2009 rodw wrote:
>Stoked won touch footy GF for 3 years running, not bad for a bunch of old
>farts.

And congratulations, Rod.

You old fart.
hipster
18-Dec-2009
2:50:40 PM
Fishing 'round a bin in Vinnies Blackheath looking for some threads for the weekend fancy dress party. What's this, a pair of Camp lightweight crampons!...hardly used, nice rubber covers on the spikes.
How much?
$1
Stoked..

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There are 1982 messages in this topic.

 

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