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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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Author
The official stoked thread!

Sarah Gara
14-Sep-2009
5:15:12 PM
I'll have a look at the guide later - thanks for suggestion - I think though that the fact I've not heard of it implies it's quite a lot harder? hmmmm....

Glad your hand doing well egosan... x
bl@ke
14-Sep-2009
5:51:58 PM
Stoked that i did my first bit of aid climbing the other day. :)

MonkeyBoy
14-Sep-2009
6:02:17 PM
Stoked I got a bit more trad training in on the weekend - Put Olbert's tip of aiding using the gear with a top rope safety. I had a great day on the mixed wall up at Barrenjoey left side and really enjoyed placing three cams to protect a run out section between 2 carrots.

Amazing day yesterday too but the dip in the ocean was bloody freezing
Wendy
14-Sep-2009
6:47:16 PM
On 14/09/2009 Sarah Gara wrote:
>On 14/09/2009 foreverabumbly wrote:
>>thats exciting, I love that climb, one of the best 13's around
>
> Thanks guys. Yeah I really enjoyed it -well afterwards anyway... what
>next? I was feeling brave about trying a 14 but then fell several times
>(on 2nd) on 2nd pitch of D Minor so kinda scared me again... suggestions
>for this coming weekend anyone? something that requires little or no upper
>body strength? x

Get on some stuff that will develop upper body strength! Try Muldoon and Hell for Leather. I couldn't do a chin up for the first 6 months I climbed. Actually, I know one amazing climber who still can't do a chin up after 15 years or so but can onsight 23-4 - including steep stuff.
simey
14-Sep-2009
7:02:15 PM
On 14/09/2009 Wendy wrote:
>Actually, I know one amazing climber who still can't do a chin up after 15 years or so but can onsight 23-4 - including steep stuff.

Who are you talking about?

wallwombat
14-Sep-2009
7:13:58 PM
This is my haiku titled 'Upper Body Strength'


I can do a chin up.

Today I did three sets of one chin up.

Training is hell!
bl@ke
14-Sep-2009
7:36:14 PM
On 13/09/2009 Sarah Gara wrote:
>I'm stoked that I finally after much procrastination (last two visits and
>about an hour racking up) led horn piece. scary, even more so after I dropped
>half the wires half way up... phew. Loved it can't wait til next time.
>x

Larry dropped one of my sets of wires half way up that too. Spooky lol
Wendy
14-Sep-2009
7:53:06 PM
On 14/09/2009 simey wrote:
>On 14/09/2009 Wendy wrote:
>>Actually, I know one amazing climber who still can't do a chin up after
>15 years or so but can onsight 23-4 - including steep stuff.
>
>Who are you talking about?

That would be the delightful Ms Kate.

It did flabbergast me as well, but she assures me she can't. And I've witnessed 6c+ roofs going down with nary a grunt. Not to mention the rapid redpoints of Masada and Procul.

Sarah Gara
14-Sep-2009
9:04:58 PM
On 14/09/2009 Wendy wrote:
>
>Get on some stuff that will develop upper body strength! Try Muldoon
>and Hell for Leather. I couldn't do a chin up for the first 6 months I
>climbed. Actually, I know one amazing climber who still can't do a chin
>up after 15 years or so but can onsight 23-4 - including steep stuff.

See I've also got the whole still never fallen on lead and am scared issue too.. that's also why I won't try Agamemnon yet... hmmm... maybe I should just suck it up and try muldoon. if I fall I fall got to happen sooner or later I suppose. Having looked at the photo in the book though - it looks scary...x

Li
14-Sep-2009
9:13:10 PM
Hell for Leather is a nice climb - I really enjoyed it.

foreverabumbly
14-Sep-2009
9:18:04 PM
might not want to fall off the scary move on muldoon....

The 14's on the R watchtower face are good, Gecko, salamander and Mantle. (I think someone else mentioned these) and I really like Mantis on fang buttress.

Necrophiliac is a good challange if your into crack, and very safe to fall from (it might be a 15 now tho in the new guide) and I like the first pitch of CS Concerto (the second is average, better to do second pitch of libretto 16, or you can nick around onto D major)

You could also do Minimus on the plaque for a bit of one move wonder action!
bl@ke
14-Sep-2009
9:24:00 PM
Muldoon ows me a set of undies!

Sarah Gara
14-Sep-2009
9:25:57 PM
On 14/09/2009 gfdonc wrote:
>
>Right Watchtower Face. But don't take me seriously! It meets your stated
>criteria but has some slight disadvantages in terms of a surplus of grade
>and a deficit of protection.
>

hell of a big surplus! Think we'll solo that one before breakfast. nee bother. x
simey
14-Sep-2009
9:26:12 PM
On 14/09/2009 Wendy wrote:
>On 14/09/2009 simey wrote:
>>On 14/09/2009 Wendy wrote:
>>>Actually, I know one amazing climber who still can't do a chin up after
>>15 years or so but can onsight 23-4 - including steep stuff.
>>
>>Who are you talking about?
>
>That would be the delightful Ms Kate.

I would be pretty doubtful that Kate can't do a pull-up.


Sarah Gara
14-Sep-2009
9:35:04 PM
On 14/09/2009 bl@ke wrote:
>Muldoon ows me a set of undies!

Ahhh see I'm getting scared now... I've looked at Muldoon a few times and decided it's too difficult for me just yet. "arkward... tricky...steep...overhang...bulge" in fact the only bit of the route description that I like is "easier country leads to the top" May leave that one for now. x

foreverabumbly
14-Sep-2009
9:43:37 PM
On 14/09/2009 Sarah Gara wrote:
>Ahhh see I'm getting scared now... I've looked at Muldoon a few times
>and decided it's too difficult for me just yet. "arkward... tricky...steep...overhang...bu
>ge" in fact the only bit of the route description that I like is "easier
>country leads to the top" May leave that one for now. x

ah, its not really that hard, I would say the horn piece moves are harder, you just have to commit to some scary looking moves, its all jugs (can be a bit slimy) and you can get a fairly good Rp in before you commit to the move on the first pitch as well.
bl@ke
14-Sep-2009
9:45:28 PM
Its easier than it looks, the second pitch is the scary one, i didnt beleive that you could feel so vulnerable 30m off the ground. I was wrong :(
Its a good one to do so do it! very worthwhile.

Sarah Gara
14-Sep-2009
9:53:48 PM
On 14/09/2009 foreverabumbly wrote:
>might not want to fall off the scary move on muldoon....

I don't want to fall off full stop - not for the falling do I go climbing... maybe that is holding me back...
>
>The 14's on the R watchtower face are good, Gecko, salamander and Mantle.
>(I think someone else mentioned these) and I really like Mantis on fang
>buttress.

What do you think "spooky rock" means?... not good I think.
>
>Necrophiliac is a good challange if your into crack, and very safe to
>fall from (it might be a 15 now tho in the new guide) and I like the first
>pitch of CS Concerto (the second is average, better to do second pitch
>of libretto 16, or you can nick around onto D major)

Necrophiliac -sounds interesting..is indeed a 15. May have a look at that one if it's safe to fall from...

CS concerto -sounds ok done a few good routes that are "atmospheric" will have to have a look when I'm there though it's annoyingly in the middle of a page and can't see pic very well.. does airy mean no gear or just exposed?
>
>You could also do Minimus on the plaque for a bit of one move wonder action!

I sure don't need deflating - I need routes to inflate and encourage.

they all sound terrifing - I think I might go do tiptoe ridge... i've been told to save that one - but I'm not quite sure what for.

I am however liking the sound of D major... and at grade 9 I might manage it without crying or having a hissy fit - although I'm not promising.

Thanks FB. x

Sarah Gara
14-Sep-2009
10:01:48 PM
On 14/09/2009 foreverabumbly wrote:

>ah, its not really that hard, I would say the horn piece moves are harder,
>you just have to commit to some scary looking moves, its all jugs (can
>be a bit slimy)

How does it compare to the 2nd pitch of D minor? As I came of that loads on second. and that's pretty juggy. I'm not joking when I say I have no upper body strength -pull up? I can't even do a push up.

> you can get a fairly good Rp in before you commit to
>the move on the first pitch as well.

Fairly good RP - still not sure if i trust those things... hmmmm....

blake wrote:
>Its easier than it looks, the second pitch is the scary one, i didnt beleive that you could feel >so vulnerable 30m off the ground. I was wrong :(
>Its a good one to do so do it! very worthwhile.

I feel vulnerable on the first move! I'm just a souk (correct spelling of a very Ozzie word?) Hehe I'll see how I'm feeling after D major... x

foreverabumbly
14-Sep-2009
10:03:34 PM
On 14/09/2009 Sarah Gara wrote:

>What do you think "spooky rock" means?... not good I think.

nah the rock and gear is good, gets brittle and wobbly after the roofy bit, but the grade drops off here heaps.

the 'spooky rock' is refering to the fact the climb looks a bit gothic, and you have to avoid the bird poo in places

> does airy mean no gear or just
>exposed?
In this case exposed, but the rock gets a bit crumbly and mossy, it doesnt see a lot of traffic.


>
>they all sound terrifing - I think I might go do tiptoe ridge... i've
>been told to save that one - but I'm not quite sure what for.

for the midnight naked solo ascent while drunk or high or both

>Thanks FB. x
no worries

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