General Climbing Discussion

Author	Havachatwithhexy...
nmonteith 27-Jan-2006 5:57:57 PM	Got zero feedback - like normal. Its all written up in the SCV database... here it is crossposted for you Hexy! Cumlittle 15m 24 2 x glue in stainless hangerless machine bolts Hilti HY150 Neil Monteith 8/11/2003 Original bolts on this route were very crappy. The first was an early 80's self drill petzel caving anchor with a corroded aluminium hanger. The second bolt was the worst of the worst - a bash in SRT rivet bolt - 8mm of button headed death. I broke the hanger on the rivet when i tried to crowbar the bolt out. Proberly would have held about 400kg max. Because of the location of this climb i chose to use hangerless machine bolts to minimize the visabilty of the bolts. It only takes 5 minutes to run to the top, throw a rope down and pre-place the quickdraws anyway. The route looks desperatly hard! Pic of the two original death trap bolts.
nmonteith 27-Jan-2006 5:58:48 PM	see ya Mundy folks... im off to get wasted.
The HEX 27-Jan-2006 6:03:26 PM	HA HĂĂĂĂĂĂ !!!! --- take Alrob with ya!!! :D >Got zero feedback... ... no news is gơod news ... ...cêepthecarrotscumming;-) ---------------------------
The HEX 27-Jan-2006 7:04:03 PM	-------------------------- Chalkischeap >There will always be debate over particular climbs and rightly so. By all means >disagree with someone over a specific case but... http://au.news.yahoo.com/060126/2/xqi6.html ------------------------------------
The HEX 27-Jan-2006 10:18:30 PM	--------------------------- Summary of Fires - State Situation. Updated at 4.30pm Fire activity across Victoria 27/01/2006 MT LUBRA / GRAMPIANS Status: GOING Fire size: 124,500 Hectares Biiiiiiiiiiiiiig area ... I bags Neil goes and jump-tests all the glue-ins he's placed in the affected areas ... .................................. ' rat >Rosea and Bundaleer are well and truly cooked I'm afraid... ... not to worry ... Bundaleer had the soul scorched out of it a long time ago, when Dive ! Dive !! DIVE !!! got chipped into existence ... ----------------------------------
Super Saiyan 27-Jan-2006 10:19:36 PM	On 27/01/2006 The HEX wrote: >Biiiiiiiiiiiiiig area ... I bags Neil goes and jump-tests all the glue-ins >he's placed in the affected areas ... Speaking of which- does the fire affect the glue, the bolts or the rock surrounding the bolt that much??
The HEX 27-Jan-2006 10:23:09 PM	...thatz what crash-test-dummy-Neilio is gunna find out for us ... hehehe ... --------------------------------------------- ... but yeah... I think it does ... ----------------------------------------------- ... also beware of fire-exfoliated flakes ... greengirl >the leader must never fall - especially now after the intensive bushfires and the loose >holds that they must have inevitably have created... ---------------------------
Super Saiyan 27-Jan-2006 10:32:03 PM	the resemblance is uncanny... -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- kinda like a cyborg head of SCV... turn to the dark side *****pssssssh******* booooooooolts.....
The HEX 27-Jan-2006 10:35:38 PM	On 27/01/2006 obsessedclimber wrote: >the resemblance is uncanny... > ... is indeed !! :D --------------------------------
Super Saiyan 27-Jan-2006 10:35:44 PM	make sure you accessorise neilio! --------------------------------------------------- argh! my cover is blown!! i mean ... ahem... i like trad climbing... no bolts at araps.... sport climbing is for poofters.... must be off...
The HEX 27-Jan-2006 10:40:17 PM	--------------------------- Boaredoftherings & Piggy will save us !!! --------------------------- 'rat >I talked to a DSE wildlife officer at breakfast this morning and did not envy his task of >trying to help injured wildlife or end their suffering... TAKE CARE , BOARED-PIGGY !!! ---------------------------
BoaredOfTheRings 27-Jan-2006 11:22:55 PM	TAKE CARE , BOARED-PIGGY !!! YUM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Dave C 28-Jan-2006 10:39:13 AM	On 27/01/2006 obsessedclimber wrote: >Speaking of which- does the fire affect the glue, the bolts or the rock >surrounding the bolt that much?? My source here (materials scientist) tells me that two-part glues should cope with the heat OK but single-part adhesives may be suspect. It would be an idea to contact manufacturers and find out the heat tolerance of any glues that have been used or are being used. (I've sent a PM to Neil about this.) The effect on the rock, as Hexy rightly says, will be to cause exfoliation in some places but sandstone does generally cope better than granite. DC (too lazy to change username)
The HEX 29-Jan-2006 6:32:00 PM	+++++++++++++++++++++++++++ MORE DEATH & DESTRUCTION ... ...at Mount York, near Mount Victoria...the man was aged in his 40s ... +++++++++++++++++++++++++++
The HEX 29-Jan-2006 6:39:14 PM	++++++++++++++++++ ... don't chop bolts at Nowra --- the locals can get VERY up-set ... ++++++++++++++++++
DaCrux 29-Jan-2006 8:32:59 PM	On 29/01/2006 The HEX wrote: >+++++++++++++++++++++++++++ > MORE >DEATH & DESTRUCTION ... > >...at Mount York, near Mount Victoria...the man was aged in his 40s ... >+++++++++++++++++++++++++++ A ROCK climber has been killed in a 15 metre fall in the Blue Mountains. Police say the 53-year-old man, who was with a group of climbers, fell 15m to his death at Mount York, west of Sydney, about 1pm (AEDT) today. There were no suspicious circumstances, a police spokesman said. http://www.theadvertiser.news.com.au/common/story_page/0,5936,17975300%255E1702,00.html
Dalai 30-Jan-2006 8:41:12 AM	On 29/01/2006 The HEX wrote: >++++++++++++++++++ >... don't chop bolts at Nowra --- the locals can get VERY up-set ... >++++++++++++++++++ Nowra is THE place for dead bodies. I found a decomposing corpse at Bartondale back in 96...
The HEX 30-Jan-2006 10:43:08 AM	...did it taste good ? :P ---------------------------
The HEX 30-Jan-2006 10:45:08 AM	------------------- ...ah-hem... something noice ... http://www.jerrydodrill.com/coastbouldering.html ...the bottom one looks like The Shady Side. Cataract Gorge Lonny ... ---------------------
The HEX 30-Jan-2006 10:55:26 AM	------------------------- Romfrantic creates/expiriences a perfect juxta-position ... very noice:-) >on our way out of a canyon (upper bowens south branch) ...the canyon was >awesome and so cool and refreshing - until we climbed out and hit the rockclimbers track to >get back out, it was soooo hot!... Aaaaaaaahhhhh --- me stay cyber-floating in the bowels of the canyon for a while ... -------------------------

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