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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Egg Rock, Gembrook
Karl Bromelow
2-Jan-2022
3:40:57 AM
Can anyone name this route on the opposite side to Kookaburra Feather Crack on the Orange Tower at Egg Rock. It was quiet there yesterday. As for the last several thousand days probably.
https://www.thecrag.com/photo/4576048344

E. Wells
2-Jan-2022
4:21:55 AM
Thats not a route, its a goannas house.

Duang Daunk
2-Jan-2022
4:48:08 AM
On 2-Jan-2022 E. Wells wrote:
>Thats not a route, its a goannas house.

Eh bro, KBís got this respect thing happening where you donít need a drill and bolts to make a route. Heís been doing it a long time and the lore has been passed down generations.
The goannas are happy.
Karl Bromelow
2-Jan-2022
3:56:26 PM
On 2-Jan-2022 Duang Daunk wrote:
>Eh bro, KBís got this respect thing happening where you donít need a drill
>and bolts to make a route. Heís been doing it a long time and the lore
>has been passed down generations.
>The goannas are happy.

Thanks for the defence of my arcane practices DD. We may be unfashionable but one day, mark my words, long socks will once again be de rigueur at crags the world over. And my son will be at the forefront of the new wave.

Someone out there must know what the name of the reptile's lare is. If not Goanna House might do. It has a nice ring.

E. Wells
2-Jan-2022
9:26:12 PM
It needs a nice ring. 316 stainless on top.
dalai
3-Jan-2022
8:00:20 AM
I expect such an obvious line will have been climbed, as it's not like there is an abundance of lines at Egg rock.

Just doubt you will get a response here. If you are asking because you want to write it up, just list as FRA.
dalai
3-Jan-2022
8:33:42 AM
On 2-Jan-2022 E. Wells wrote:
>It needs a nice ring. 316 stainless on top

It is a rarely visited (expect Karl is the only person who has gone there more than once) esoteric spot with next to no worthwhile rock. Pointless bolting anything there

Duang Daunk
3-Jan-2022
9:30:59 AM
On 3-Jan-2022 dalai wrote:
>On 2-Jan-2022 E. Wells wrote:
>>It needs a nice ring. 316 stainless on top
>
> It is a rarely visited (expect Karl is the only person who has gone there
>more than once) esoteric spot with next to no worthwhile rock. Pointless
>bolting anything there

Itís a boulder, but todays sports climbers bolt boulders donít they!
By your post it seems that if it / anywhere is popular, then bolting is justified?

Bolt it and they will come.
Catch 22 bro.

Bro EW, since you are obviously fluent in top out natural anchors your trolling worked, but then again-
sch
3-Jan-2022
4:30:48 PM
Hi Karl, I have spent many hours at Egg Rock, not many of them climbing. I did do some climbing there about 30 years ago. None of it was particularly memorable but the Goanna's house was not involved. There was a half decent climb about 10m high about grade 20? just west of the Egg Rock scar, maybe 200m down. I have no ambition about claiming any FA in the area. The Scar is, according to legend, where the original Egg Rock trundled down the hill after being dynamited by some local lads back in the day when you could actually buy dynamite. The scar would be just NW of the fire tower. There is a fairly substantial granite Tor of good quality on Fitzpatrick Rd near the Junction of Big Creek Rd that may be worth a look if you are in the area. You could always climb the Ada tree if the Tor isn't feasible!
dalai
3-Jan-2022
6:49:32 PM
1. I knew Mr Wells was trolling as that is his MO.

2. I was going to initially reply that Egg rock was a bolt free crag, but reread the guide this morning as I hadn't been out there after my first and only visit ~30 years ago and there is mention of a chain anchor at the top of one boulder now. So in fact not a bolt free crag though deserves to be.

Comment wasn't not to bolt because it isn't a popular area, rather not to bolt because it isn't necessary for this line in question and from memory don't recall anything there worth being bolted. Going on the lack of bolts others who did the FA's there agree with that analysis.

If there were quality lines that needed equipping to lead then there might be an ethical dilemma. Moot point as I only remember esoteric choss... As predominantly a pebble wrestler for a few decades now, it would have to be super quality for me to dust off the harness and get my Ryobi petrol drill out of the shed!

Happy enough to just set up topropes if I were to go back there but don't plan on it anyway. Better stuff closer to home. Nice troll BTW.

That said reality is not everything or everywhere needs to be bolted. In fact I have been questioning myself much more these days about bolting lines and am currently more focused on replacing my bolts from 30 years ago than adding new ones. Especially all my hand drilled carrots!

Karl Bromelow
4-Jan-2022
4:12:43 AM
On 3-Jan-2022 dalai wrote:
>I expect such an obvious line will have been climbed, as it's not like
>there is an abundance of lines at Egg rock.
>
>Just doubt you will get a response here. If you are asking because you
>want to write it up, just list as FRA.

I had no intention to claim a FA Dalai. Just curious whether it was one of the routes listed on the guide here. The top moves are worthwhile and it was a nice place to spend New Years Day far from the crowds we have on the Peninsula.
Karl Bromelow
4-Jan-2022
6:04:58 PM
Thanks for the story and the info sch. That's all I'm after. It's a shame that places are roundly dismissed when there is a scarcity of rock in this part of the world. We make the most of what there is and enjoy ourselves. Otherwise we'd lose it. Cheers, Karl

Duang Daunk
21-Jan-2022
3:37:48 PM
On 3-Jan-2022 dalai wrote:
> Nice troll BTW.

You reckon bro?
Itís da interweb, donít believe all you think!
. . . Unless itís a post from bro EW and your overbolted future will be assured!!
On that topic, when nsw follows vics lead with TO treaty stuff, heís in for a shock when Blueys becomes off limits like Gramps.

E. Wells
22-Jan-2022
4:12:52 PM
Its drones and technocratic tyranny that will bother me, not black fellas.

There are 14 messages in this topic.

 

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