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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Podcast - Australian Climbing
jacksonclimbs
2-Oct-2019
7:14:19 AM
Thought I'd post here for any Chockstoners who are not on other social media and may not be aware that Australia now has a couple of climbing podcasts as of the start of this year.

I interviewed Andy Pollitt and released the recording on Friday, you can check it out at http://www.thelayback.com - there are 8 interviews there so far with various Australian climbers.

You can also check out Baffle Days which is done by Tom O'Hallorohan and Amanda Watts at http://www.baffledays.com.au

If you have any suggestions for climbers that you would like to hear interviewed, please let me know. I'm trying to get as good a cross-section of the Australian climbing scene, past and present, as possible.
Cam McKenzie
2-Oct-2019
11:29:22 AM
hey Jackson,
Enjoying your work so far. Some obvious suggestions for interviews:

Kevin Lindorff
Glenn Tempest
Dave Jones
HB
Simon Mentz
Gary Phillips

cheers

E. Wells
2-Oct-2019
2:07:56 PM
Keith Bell
jacksonclimbs
2-Oct-2019
2:27:01 PM
Yeah, I've been wondering how best to tackle Balls Pyramid - there are so many great stories - I think it might end up featuring a few times in the podcast.

E. Wells
2-Oct-2019
5:10:43 PM
..wasnt really thinking of that. More impressed with what he did at Bungles and elsewhere , picked off the biggest baddest lines across the country.
jacksonclimbs
3-Oct-2019
8:09:16 AM
Will add his name to the list, appreciate it.

Definitely others mentioned here I also have on the list and am eager to have them on the podcast.
Cam McKenzie
3-Oct-2019
9:38:53 AM
Vera Wong and Louise Shepherd would be great too.

MisterGribble
3-Oct-2019
1:28:21 PM
Jon Muir
One Day Hero
3-Oct-2019
1:55:03 PM
Good suggestions upthread, and excellent work on the podcast so far.

Keith Bell is a legend and will talk well, did some significant ascents in America in the 70s too (e.g. The Nose in 30hrs or so with Henry Barber prior to the "first one day ascent", and I think the second ascent of 3rd pillar of Dana with Galen Rowell).

Fantini is back in the country, living history right there.

I'm not that interested in "nice friendly crushers". Oddballs, grumpy old misanthropes, and other original thinkers make for better listening. Other suggestions from Canberra are;

John Smart, who was putting up routes in the ACT in the late 70s which were on par with the cutting edge stuff at Araps. He also did some hard stuff in Tassie and the first ascent of Downwind of Angels.

Roark Muhlen, who had a real eye for hard bold lines in the early 80s (kind of equivalent to things like Open Season and Delirium Tremens), and is involved in the GAWG (if you want to open that can of worms).

Tony Barten, put up a huge number of really great hard routes from the mid 80s through to the mid 90s, went on overseas epic adventures, has a great sense of humour and would hopefully rip into various aspects of Australian climbing in a hilarious way.

Mike Peck, a bit of a low key character who also put up tons of great routes in the 80s, edited two editions each of ACT and Point Perp guidebooks, was involved in the amazing climbing mag Gripped Off Me Scone. His contribution to climbing over a decade was equal to peak Neil Monteith manic output.

Also; Wendy and Ester from Nati, Scott Camps or Squeak from Girraween, Roger Parkyn from Tassie

MisterGribble
3-Oct-2019
2:12:18 PM
Paul Pritchard would have an interesting story to tell too - he's in Hobart
Widewetandslippery
3-Oct-2019
5:33:05 PM
ODH, Tony barten would make great listening.
jacksonclimbs
3-Oct-2019
8:51:59 PM
Thanks ODH, appreciate the feedback and the suggestions. I've added all those names to the list. I might reach out to you guys if I need some direction for research sources.
One Day Hero
4-Oct-2019
10:08:02 AM
Ian Brown would also be a good interview, if you can handle hearing some hard truths about climbing from someone who has done tons of cool stuff (e.g. ground up ascent of the South Wall of Bungers in the 70s, "discovered" Point Perp and established a couple of hundred trad routes).

Duang Daunk
4-Oct-2019
10:43:46 AM
Bro ODH wrote lots of good suggestions.
But, ... Iím surprised that heís left out Gerry Narkowicz, or was that intentional due his aversion to what he reckons are ocd new routers that bolt stuff even when itís sometimes unworthy?

Also imasurprised(lizard) that KC hasnít made the short list?? - one could prolly write a book about his exploits!

What about some unsung Aussie climber bros/sisís that have made innovative contributions to the climbing scene ... Bit late for getting Roland P, but Tim P is still around and invented the worlds best nut tool.
One Day Hero
4-Oct-2019
12:01:39 PM
On 4-Oct-2019 Duang Daunk wrote:
>But, ... Iím surprised that heís left out Gerry Narkowicz, or was that
>intentional due his aversion to what he reckons are ocd new routers that
>bolt stuff even when itís sometimes unworthy?

Nah, Gerry is an interesting character on the Oz climbing scene, however he's had tons of media exposure over the years. Same deal with Mike Law, Glenn Tempest, Simon Mentz, etc. Great climbers with keen minds and plenty of cool stories......but anyone who has consumed climbing media over the last couple of decades knows those stories. That's why I suggested a bunch of climbers who may be less well known/publicised.
jacksonclimbs
4-Oct-2019
1:03:50 PM
>That's why I suggested a bunch of climbers who may be less well known/publicised.

Definitely. In the interest of archiving the stories for future generations, I can see value in capturing the stories that may otherwise go untold.

I have gone for the more well known names, at least at first, as the research tends to be a little easier, and if they have been well publicised, then it's likely that they are also happy to be interviewed. I'm also trying to get a good mix of generations, styles, locations and philosophies in the hope to attract a broad audience within the niche that is Aussie climbing.

>But, ... Iím surprised that heís left out Gerry Narkowicz, or was that
>intentional due his aversion to what he reckons are ocd new routers that
>bolt stuff even when itís sometimes unworthy?

I definitely want to capture the full array of characters and stories and am not the type to shy away from doing an interview because it might be a bit uncomfortable or a present an opinion in contrast to my own. I really see myself as more of a facilitator of the story that the person wishes to tell, and I try to research as much as I can to aid in the effective story-telling for the audience - this is still a hobby though for me, and I'm learning as I go.

I do take these requests on board, and have reached out to a fair few people. A fair few have agreed, and I have a big to-do list, but I've held off making that list public so that the person can change their mind if they wish - which has happened. I send the person the questions beforehand, and have them listen to the final draft before I publish, and I hope that makes them feel more comfortable with being interviewed, and includes them a bit more in the process to produce a better result.

MisterGribble
4-Oct-2019
2:36:35 PM
On 4-Oct-2019 Duang Daunk wrote:

>
>Also imasurprised(lizard) that KC hasnít made the short list?? - one
>could prolly write a book about his exploits!

KC is podcast #1 - and another great walk down the golden age of hard climbing in the 70's and 80's
And the Chris Baxter impersonation was hysterical!!

As for the book, we're waiting.....

There are 17 messages in this topic.

 

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