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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Aid climbing - Classic climbs of Australia
Davedave
30-Jan-2019
7:44:38 AM
Looking for advice for classic and/or trade aid routes in Australia. Rope aid solo'd Ozy Direct last month which was quite nice, and looking for other objectives in the aid/big wall realm before I head back for my second trip to yosemite later this year. Would prefer more moderate grades (ie C1-3), and steep for easier soloing, but obviously beggars can't be choosers.

Also, would anyone know if the totem pole is still aided (and whether it goes clean?).

Dave

IdratherbeclimbingM9
30-Jan-2019
11:06:54 AM
On 30-Jan-2019 Davedave wrote:
>Looking for advice for classic and/or trade aid routes in Australia. Rope
>aid solo'd Ozy Direct last month which was quite nice, and looking for
>other objectives in the aid/big wall realm before I head back for my second
>trip to yosemite later this year. Would prefer more moderate grades (ie
>C1-3), and steep for easier soloing, but obviously beggars can't be choosers.
>
>Also, would anyone know if the totem pole is still aided (and whether
>it goes clean?).
>
>Dave

Lots of routes out there... A couple that are highly regarded are Passport to Insanity, and 7th Pillar - in the Grampians.

In my opinion a route doesnít need to be strictly an aid route to be done clean aid style. Anything you canít get up otherwise is a candidate!

Re Totem; I havenít done it, but Iíd have no qualms about clean aiding its original aid route; though Iíd expect it to be harder than C3, even with modern gear like hand placed Peckers etc.
simey
30-Jan-2019
5:57:30 PM
On 30-Jan-2019 Davedave wrote:
>Also, would anyone know if the totem pole is still aided (and whether
>it goes clean?).

I reckon it would be pretty demanding going clean, but I am no expert. Maybe the Gallegos Variant at the start could be a better approach (what is effectively now Deep Play to the ledge). At least most of the bolts on the Totem Pole you can trust.
kieranl
31-Jan-2019
6:00:38 AM
Melanoma at Rosea. Rarely climbed these days. Finishes with a huge roof.
GoUp!
31-Jan-2019
6:26:01 AM
'Classic'....I guess this depends on what attributes one associates with such a description!

Surely one or several of the aid routes forcing their way up Dogface would qualify....iconic wall, notorious rock conditions, first ascents by the legend Ewbank himself! The names themselves are epic....Gigantor, Colossus, Titan, Giant, Gargantuan, Leviathan, Goliath etc etc etc

For something bigger and more modern....what about Big Glassy or Big Glassy Corner deep in the Wolgan?

phillipivan
1-Feb-2019
5:08:07 AM
On 31-Jan-2019 kieranl wrote:
>Melanoma at Rosea. Rarely climbed these days. Finishes with a huge roof.

Did you ever get up that?
kieranl
1-Feb-2019
6:27:52 AM
On 1-Feb-2019 phillipivan wrote:
>On 31-Jan-2019 kieranl wrote:
>>Melanoma at Rosea. Rarely climbed these days. Finishes with a huge roof.
>
>Did you ever get up that?

No. Don't think my back will cope with that sort of thing any more.
gfdonc
1-Feb-2019
6:43:40 AM
If anyone is going to do Melanoma, let me know - I'd love to take photos.

There are 8 messages in this topic.

 

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