Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop
Chockstone Photography
Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 4 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 73
Author
Bolts at Buffalo

bigchris
8-Feb-2019
10:25:48 AM
Gledhill and I are going up to Buffalo this weekend if anyone "needs" anything ;D

Duang Daunk
8-Feb-2019
1:23:54 PM
On 8-Feb-2019 bigchris wrote:
>Gledhill and I are going up to Buffalo this weekend if anyone "needs" anything
>;D

Is bro Joseph Grollo err, overbolt new routes Godling, going with you?
Some of his retros “need” further retroing, and not just at Mackeys that GG would be aware of, but also on The Initiation at The Hump.

bigchris
8-Feb-2019
7:50:09 PM
I'm picking up what you're putting down ;)

bigchris
10-Feb-2019
4:58:18 AM
So we went to do a re'retro' at Mackeys slab, but unfortunately it was....wet. Really wet.

Bolts removed from:

Further bolts removed from the top of fuhrer. I pulled the 5 a few weeks back and was sent a text saying that there were more so we went back an removed a further 3 which were around the corner and which I did not see.

We chopped four useless bolts off the top of the cathedral where there are natural gear placements for anchors (near the top of bloodnok etc).

We were going to chop and clean up the mess on pitch 3 of The Initiation, but the weather set in.

We chopped 4 bolts from the slab where geoff found more volts near the tennis court.

We chopped a basically pulled bolt on the south side water fall route and have left the other bolt near it so that it can still be used on the climb ever though there is gear relatively close.

Can we make it a rule that we use expansion bolts rather than glue-ins and over drill the holes just in case they need to be pulled?
gfdonc
11-Feb-2019
6:10:12 AM
On 10-Feb-2019 bigchris wrote:
>So we went to do a re'retro' at Mackeys slab, but unfortunately it was....wet.
I assume you're referring to the 'retro' by establishing a new route around Stiletto? I haven't done either of these so can't comment.

>We chopped four useless bolts off the top of the cathedral where there
>are natural gear placements for anchors (near the top of bloodnok etc).
I recall these being useful as the only nearby gear is large cams. I may have that wrong, it's been a while. Four though? I only remember two.

>We were going to chop and clean up the mess on pitch 3 of The Initiation,
>but the weather set in.
Can I clarify what this one is all about?
Are we talking about the traverse pitch (which, the way I recommend, is pitch 2) or have some bolts been installed recently somewhere else? Only did this route about a year ago.

regards

bigchris
11-Feb-2019
7:33:04 AM
On 11-Feb-2019 gfdonc wrote:
>On 10-Feb-2019 bigchris wrote:
>>So we went to do a re'retro' at Mackeys slab, but unfortunately it was....wet.
>I assume you're referring to the 'retro' by establishing a new route around
>Stiletto? I haven't done either of these so can't comment.

Geoff wanted to add a bolt to the first pitch of Spit and Polish and possibly wanted to chop a few off of Stiletto as it has gone from having almost zero bolts to having one every 3 meters.

Also it should be noted that the topo in the buffalo guide for Stiletto is incorrect. The line in the top pitch follows the curve of the flake to an old bolt (which is now redundant because you can put a green cam in) and then goes up the last 5 meters of spit and polish. I'll update it on The Crag when I get a moment as per Geoffs wishes. The last bolt is basically on a slab/rock which you can walk up with your hands in your pockets (yep).



>>We chopped four useless bolts off the top of the cathedral where there
>>are natural gear placements for anchors (near the top of bloodnok etc).
>I recall these being useful as the only nearby gear is large cams. I
>may have that wrong, it's been a while. Four though? I only remember
>two.


I took cams up to have a look to see what fits and there were many places for different size cams above the top from 0.5 to 4. All bolts were just single ones and its really easy to set up natural anchors. If you're really worried about setting up an anchor, you can put a piece in on a long runner and walk 3 metres to the 'Sunrunner' anchor which is super bomber.


>>We were going to chop and clean up the mess on pitch 3 of The Initiation,
>>but the weather set in.
>Can I clarify what this one is all about?
>Are we talking about the traverse pitch (which, the way I recommend, is
>pitch 2) or have some bolts been installed recently somewhere else? Only
>did this route about a year ago.

There is an old bolt next to a giant crack before the traverse, and there is an old mank bolt on the traverse basically right next to a new one so Geoff is going to remove that. Im not sure when that one was installed or who did it. The first time I did it (about a year ago also) I didn't even see the first bolt and put a yellow cam in right next to it (within 30cm).

The second bolt is an old aid bolt that was put in on lead on the middle of the traverse, but there is a shiny new machine bolt right next to it (also 30cm-ish away).

I also agree that the first two pitches should be climbed in one, and the traverse pitch should be called pitch 2 :D

We were also considering replacing the Rap bolts at the top with stainless steel ones and getting rid of the mank rusty ones, but thats not such a big deal as they still look ok.

gordoste
11-Feb-2019
10:12:12 AM
Re Initiation - yes that old bolt on the traverse definitely needs cleaning up.

It would help a hell of a lot if someone uploaded a decent photo of Mackey's lookout to thecrag.com so you could mark the various routes. It is pretty confusing with routes sharing starts and finishes in some cases. Although it's better than the old guide which had no topo at all.
gfdonc
11-Feb-2019
11:00:04 AM
On 11-Feb-2019 gordoste wrote:
>It would help a hell of a lot if someone uploaded a decent photo of Mackey's
>lookout to thecrag.com so you could mark the various routes. It is pretty
>confusing with routes sharing starts and finishes in some cases. Although
>it's better than the old guide which had no topo at all.

Or just refer to my Buffti guide on the VCC web site:
https://vicclimb.org.au/guides/ (scroll down a bit to the download link)

I note it mentions two carrots at the top of Bloodnok - CG confirming they're now gone? Can you suggest an alternative landmark?


bigchris
11-Feb-2019
2:30:00 PM
On 11-Feb-2019 gordoste wrote:
>Re Initiation - yes that old bolt on the traverse definitely needs cleaning
>up.
>
>It would help a hell of a lot if someone uploaded a decent photo of Mackey's
>lookout to thecrag.com so you could mark the various routes. It is pretty
>confusing with routes sharing starts and finishes in some cases. Although
>it's better than the old guide which had no topo at all.

Yeah, so I'm not entirely sure how to do that unless I use a drone? I don't mind doing that, but it kinda gives people the shits....


For Bloodnok, as far as I know, there are no bolts. I don't remember seeing any. What do you mean by an alternative landmark?

Lmo
11-Feb-2019
5:43:20 PM
If the new bolts on Profanities are not needed, why did you bother to use them?
I assume you did given you said: “fitting plates over them was not a fun time”

gordoste
12-Feb-2019
9:10:34 AM
On 11-Feb-2019 bigchris wrote:
>On 11-Feb-2019 gordoste wrote:
>>Re Initiation - yes that old bolt on the traverse definitely needs cleaning
>>up.
>>
>>It would help a hell of a lot if someone uploaded a decent photo of Mackey's
>>lookout to thecrag.com so you could mark the various routes. It is pretty
>>confusing with routes sharing starts and finishes in some cases. Although
>>it's better than the old guide which had no topo at all.
>
>Yeah, so I'm not entirely sure how to do that unless I use a drone? I
>don't mind doing that, but it kinda gives people the shits....
>
>
>For Bloodnok, as far as I know, there are no bolts. I don't remember seeing
>any. What do you mean by an alternative landmark?
>
>

@gfdonc - I was more talking about Stiletto etc. which aren't in your guide.

@bigchris - Honestly I don't think anyone would care if you flew a drone for 5 mins up there, especially if it was on a weekday. It'd be pretty unlikely anyone would actually walk past in that time. If it was near any of the busy lookouts, it's a different story.

gordoste
12-Feb-2019
10:11:01 AM
On 11-Feb-2019 Lmo wrote:
>If the new bolts on Profanities are not needed, why did you bother to use them?
>I assume you did given you said: “fitting plates over them was not a fun time”

They are needed. The FA used bolt equivalents. It's just a question of how many.

bigchris
12-Feb-2019
2:13:32 PM
On 12-Feb-2019 gordoste wrote:
>On 11-Feb-2019 Lmo wrote:
>>If the new bolts on Profanities are not needed, why did you bother to
>use them?
>>I assume you did given you said: “fitting plates over them was not a
>fun time”
>
>They are needed. The FA used bolt equivalents. It's just a question of
>how many.

Half as many to be exact :D

 Page 4 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 73
There are 73 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Landscape Photos Australia

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | High Country Mountain Huts | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints