Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop
Chockstone Photography
Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Pre-placed quickdraws.
mountbeckworth
28-Aug-2018
5:27:00 AM
Curious as to what grade you have to be climbing to have all quickdraws pre-placed. Youtube videos show most really hard climbs have the gear already there. If I do it on a grade 10 I look like an idiot. If the top climbers say the climb is too difficult to carry carabiners and quickdraws, can I say the 10 is too hard without doing the same? Is it equivalent to the fixed ladder on the Hillary Step, or catching a taxi for part of a marathon, because I was too tired to run it all?
jacksonclimbs
28-Aug-2018
6:05:08 AM
I don't think you should really count your 10 even if you do place the draws, as the bolts were already pre-placed. It really only counts if you drill and place the bolts while you're on lead.

/serious - Which top climber said pre-placed draws was because it was too difficult to carry? I think it's just that sport climbers are happy to climb with the ethic that has developed around pre-placed draws. There is a good discussion of the issue on episode 143 of the Enormocast, HB gets a mention, and they discuss the term 'pink point' and whether it should be dropped. Found their take on it interesting, as they believe there is a sexist connotation to the term pink point. In the end they agree that there should be a term for climbing a trad route on pre-placed pro, but that it shouldn't be 'pink point'.

Enormocast 143 here
Jayford4321
28-Aug-2018
7:05:02 AM
On 28-Aug-2018 mountbeckworth wrote:
>Pre-placed quickdraws
First world problem dude.

On 28-Aug-2018 jacksonclimbs wrote:
>I think it's just that sport climbers are happy to climb with the ethic that has developed around pre-placed draws.
What ethic?

>In the end they agree that there should be a term for climbing a trad route on pre-placed pro, but that it shouldn't be 'pink point'.
Trad on preplaced pro is called aid.

Slab on 1/4 refaced soles is called rage.
jacksonclimbs
28-Aug-2018
1:36:16 PM
Aid Climbing

Aid climbing is a style of climbing in which standing on or pulling oneself up via devices attached to fixed or placed protection is used to make upward progress.

- you're not pulling up on pre-placed trad gear.

Ethic

1. a set of moral principles, especially ones relating to or affirming a specified group, field, or form of conduct.

- i.e. sport climbers, the specified group, are happy to climb with the moral principle that 'pre-placed draws is ok'

rodw
28-Aug-2018
3:14:41 PM
On 28-Aug-2018 mountbeckworth wrote:
>. If the top climbers
>say the climb is too difficult to carry carabiners and quickdraws, can
>I say the 10 is too hard without doing the same?

Say what ya like, no ones cares, who gives a shit what others do...make your own rules and sleep well.

Grinder
28-Aug-2018
3:44:42 PM
22

Grinder
28-Aug-2018
4:40:28 PM
Grade 21 is the threshold of the old guard and the new wave. People climbed grade 21 in leather boots, woollen ropes and gloves for belay devices on coach trips from the city. It was an adventure and placing gear (or no gear) along the way was part of the adventure and part of the ethic. Ethics are critical in the pursuit of adventure. How you do it is more important than if you do it, or die.

Then came the new wave; with tights. They could climb grade 22. Tights made climbing a sport and sport is all about highest, fastest, strongest. Ethics are flexible in the pursuit of success, rather than adventure.

Sure, there are no regulations. You wonít be fined, but you will be judged. If you donít have the power to place gear on a grade 10, just back off a grade or two. Youíll find that the eyes in the sky will respect an onsight 8 infinitely more than a pink-pointed 10. Donít rest on your laurels though. Work on it, get strong and youíll find the 10ís will follow. Once youíre up to grade 22, you will be eligible to wear tights, take your top off and choose your own ethic; adventurer, purist, bi, soft, cheat. Meanwhile, enjoy the adventure.
dan_b
28-Aug-2018
4:41:14 PM
Anything harder than your onsight limit I would have thought
Stugang
28-Aug-2018
9:34:59 PM
IMO this is more of a financial decision than an ethical one.

Fixed gear regardless of the grade of route is is fine. Leave it in situ and it becomes potential booty. Much more likely to be bootied if itís an easier route as there are more people around that are capable of bootying it. Also more likely that itíll piss someone off who confuses climbing ability with moral superiority and therefore feel justified in stealing your gear

[post edit. ie. someone like odh who feels morally-socio-technically-ethically superior to us all]

Like I said itís a financial dilemma.
jacksonclimbs
28-Aug-2018
11:36:30 PM
This is why I acid-etch the nylon runner on a random quickdraw I leave on my projects... would be crag-booty pirates beware!
One Day Hero
29-Aug-2018
2:56:15 AM
On 28-Aug-2018 Stugang wrote:
>IMO this is more of a financial decision than an ethical one.

Pffff, ridiculous. The decision is obviously socio-ethical, you double capped bumbly.
Stugang
29-Aug-2018
7:39:32 AM
Fair call hero. Iíve edited the above post to make your universal superiority more evident.

PS. Mr OP. Watch out for hero sporting a hex in the campground. If you donít know him heís probably the guy wearing your fave #10 hex round his neck after snaffling it off your abandoned grade 10 project.

widewetandslippery
29-Aug-2018
3:48:47 PM
Firstly I,d like to hope this is a troll, I like trolls. Pinkpoint appeared shortly before the term trad. It an Americanism, the conservative, the liberal, the people blessed on earth, the pinkos. Take the points for getting up a grade 10 anyway you can. Climbing is silly so don't worry how you look, you are being silly.
Mr Poopypants
29-Aug-2018
4:23:21 PM
On 29-Aug-2018 widewetandslippery wrote:

>Climbing is silly so don't worry how you look, you are being silly.


Beautiful.
G

There are 14 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Landscape Photos Australia

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | High Country Mountain Huts | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints