Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop
Chockstone Photography
Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 3 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 69
Author
Liquid Insanity

shortman
19-Apr-2018
1:07:41 PM
On 19-Apr-2018 bigchris wrote:
>On 19-Apr-2018 widewetandslippery wrote:
>>ODH, gold. You need to go the heart strings on bigchris now. I,m off
>my
>>feet and it's the little things that brighten the day.
>
>I'd actually pay money to see what ODH is like around a campfire when
>he hasn't taken his happy pills.

ODH is surprisingly underwhelming in real life...albeit still a funny c*nt..
Jayford4321
19-Apr-2018
1:14:25 PM
On 19-Apr-2018 ajfclark wrote:
>On 19-Apr-2018 gfdonc wrote:
>>On 19-Apr-2018 bigchris wrote:
>>>I'd actually pay money to see what ODH is like around a campfire when
>>>he hasn't taken his happy pills.
>>
>>Then again, there was that story about the mallet...
>
>That was CJ...

Who coincidentally climbs hard trad , more hardcore even than Typhon , sans bolting whenever possible. Unlike some , heís prepared to take the whipper when high and the fall is kinda clean.
He even did a vid about it , and called it Donít Fear The Whipper.

Back on topic. I agree with ODH about highliners putting perspective into spurt climb bolting over trad style routes. Trouble is , if the community canít deal with spurt retros then getting highliners onside will be even harder.
Good on you feetoffground for listening to us and being so accomodating.
Climb Point Perp
20-Apr-2018
10:55:12 AM
On 18-Apr-2018 feetoffground wrote:

>In answer to a previous question, the problem with using the existing
>bolts for Highlines is that the quality of them varies wildly, but more
>importantly redirecting them to go off the aretes is often impossible as
>thereís generally no trad gear on these aretes. And if youre not all the
>way on the arete, thereís isually really bad fall potential.

Call me stupid, but can someone please explain to me how if a highline doesn't start at an arete it increases the fall potential (I assume this is actually referring to the consequence rather than the potential).

ajfclark
20-Apr-2018
11:18:46 AM
If you fall off with forward momentum you'll swing back towards the cliff.

Heading out directly perpendicular to an edge you'd be closer to hitting the wall on the swing back than if you headed out from an arete.
Douglas H
20-Apr-2018
10:53:22 PM
Hey FOG, I appreciate you coming and doing your best to bridge gaps with this part of the climbing community and any others you've been talking to. Though you may have not had the greatest reception here you can be sure there are other climbers that are respect what you're doing.

It's probably worth noting that spots will eventually get bolted if not by FOG then by someone else. Though the job isn't perfect it could be worse, and the next bolter may not be here willing to chop his own bolts to keep relations with chockstone happy. (And before you say 'I'll go chop 'em myshelf' it means you don't have to get off your couch and do it yourself).

So cheers again.

Harvey.
One Day Hero
22-Apr-2018
8:39:36 PM
Harvey, while I do appreciate the calm and mature response from yourself and other members of the natistocracy, the hint of fatalism is rather irksome. Nobody has really tried over the top retaliatory chopping yet. Maybe that will work?
One Day Hero
22-Apr-2018
8:46:12 PM
On 19-Apr-2018 bigchris wrote:
>I'd actually pay money to see what ODH is like around a campfire when
>he hasn't taken his happy pills.

Yeah, that's really c.j.'s specialty. I'm a surprisingly cheerful drunk.
One Day Hero
22-Apr-2018
9:15:44 PM
On 19-Apr-2018 feetoffground wrote:
>And we bolted it because itís one of the most
>beautiful Highlines at Point Perp, which I felt was a legitimate enough
>reason at the time.

There are plenty of aretes at the Point. You guys chose those ones cause they're close to the car, and maybe you like to show off to the tourists. I reckon the fact that it's the most public bit of the crag is pretty good reason to not f--- around. I sure as shit wouldn't bolt a new route in the lighthouse, don't feel super comfortable climbing there. Surely you can see that access has to be tenuous.

>If you canít relate to the story thatís fine...

It's not that I can't relate, I just don't care. There are thousands of climbers who have just as strong a connection to Point Perp as you do. One of the guys who discovered the place for climbing 35 years ago posts here occasionally (he also chops the odd bolt, in case you're wondering). Don't bring your irrelevant personal experience to a debate on the management of a communal resource.

>Iím trying to work together with all user groups at this cliff to find
>the best outcome, but if people make personal attacks on me it doesnít
>really fill me with joy and motivate me to destroy my own work.

Your own work is half an hour of careless sloppy crap, and I bet someone said "better to ask forgiveness than permission" while you were doing it. Which is often quite true as long as some vindictive prick doesn't come after your wider infrastructure to teach you a lesson.

>While Iím on the thread of trying to be constructive. How would people
>feel if I left one threaded rod at each Highline anchor?

I'd feel like you made an offer, then immediately negotiated your own offer downwards and pretended like that's how compromise works. I hate being so predictable to Harvey, but I can do a better chopping job than you and it won't even take very long.
ben wiessner
23-Apr-2018
4:30:02 PM
On 18-Apr-2018 feetoffground wrote:
>Righto, I get the picture. I guess my judgement was a bit off in placing
>the bolts in this area. Iíll try and head down in the next few weeks and
>remove them, and hopefully get rid of those glue stains too..

Hey feetoffground, thanks for being open to taking that action, that sounds great.

Interestingly, I don't think I've ever heard a climber offer to take out any bolts they placed due to other people being unhappy with them. So I think you're quite lovely.

And ODH is quite a twerp (if you meet him in real life you'll find he's quite a reasonable guy, but online he likes to get real macho. I don't know what that is all about).

E. Wells
23-Apr-2018
4:50:09 PM
He is not being macho , he is being upset. If you go and stand at these anchors and see the amount of epoxy slopped all over the place you cant help but vomit in your own mouth when you read the cheesey arse-talk about why the place is special. If that was the case you would treat your craft with respect. I recommend anyone that has not gone and looked at what has happened there to refrain from congratulating piss poor work. Good on you odh for actually having a personality, these muppets cant cope with truths ..evidenced in their pissweak ridicule like 'take your happy pills'. F#ching numptys.

E. Wells
23-Apr-2018
4:54:04 PM
Btw the last time I went climbing there was a route developer removing some of his bolts apon request from others. In this instance if anything was going to be chopped I think someone else should do it.
dalai
23-Apr-2018
7:58:49 PM
On 23-Apr-2018 ben wiessner wrote:
>Interestingly, I don't think I've ever heard a climber offer to take out
>any bolts they placed due to other people being unhappy with them.

There was a retrobolt of a Blue Mountains route where this was done. Topic in here somewhere...

Agree with the content of ODH's posts. It is a mess! We all need to consider the ramifications of our actions as the worst case scenario is that places like Point Perp which many people love could be banned by the actions of a few!
Jayford4321
24-Apr-2018
2:05:12 PM
On 23-Apr-2018 E. Wells wrote:
>In this instance if anything was going to be chopped I think someone else should do it.

Nothing stopping you Evan . . .
Though I find it pretty ironic given some of the ordinary overbolted shit that youíve bolted in the blueies , and worse , encouraged others to similar.

Back on topic , I reckon itíd be pretty shit if authorities banned advencha sports at PP because of any minority group. Much better not to upset them by being in their face at their primo locations to start with.

E. Wells
24-Apr-2018
3:02:49 PM
Where is the irony? I generally avoid popular areas. My main issue with the raw rods was actually 'remedied' by fotg , that being a safety issue.
Wendy
25-Apr-2018
11:29:52 AM
I'm a longstanding objector to bolted highline anchors. i had heard that the ethic at araps had moved to placing natural anchors, which i am very happy about, but there are still highline bolts there that i object to. i haven't been to any of the more recent places i have seen them set up, but i hope they were all on gear, trees and bollards, because i struggle to see any reason you couldn't find a suitable natural set up at almost any location at the mount by moving around a bit and working out those challenges should be part of the skillset required to participate. like the skillsets you need to participate in climbing and why i object to catering to the demand for easy sport routes because people don't want to develop the appropriate skill set for easy rock which is almost always protectable with trad.

I'm still trying to work out why i dislike higlining anchors so much. you can probably tell me i just don't get it, and you'd be right, i don't, but it seems a bit like abseiling. you're doing the same thing in different locations. and sure, some of those locations might be nicer than others, but is the difference of experience enough to justify putting in anchors for 4 different lines in essentially the same place? would you say it was ok to put 4 sets of rap anchors in just for the experience of abseilling down a slightly different position on the cliff? if people want to set up removable anchors, they can set up highlines every 2m for all i care. but when it comes to putting in half a dozen bolts per line, i want to know what makes that line sufficiently special to justify it over existing lines and lines possible without bolts. yep, i can see pr perp is a spectacular location. but do you need to walk over a suspended line at multiple sites in that spectacular location? what makes it different to just doing the same one again other than ticking that you've walked from this arete to that arete and the other arete to the next?

i do think the same thought process needs to be applied to new climbs and rap anchors as well. i'm probably worse about higlighing anchors though because i can see when individual climbs are sufficiently unique to justify bolting or cleaning. i can even see that the highline across central gully (ugly and noisy as it was and questionable though i am about the amount of vegetation destruction involved in getting the ropes across there) offers something unique over the shorter lines. i just don't see enough variation in most highlines to say any more than same shit, different place. even the triangle on the bluffs. is there any point to all three other than saying you've done a cute little triangle? Is it just a more skilled version of someone putting in anchors on every face on the bluffs so they can say they have rapped every face of the bluffs?

Flame away if you want. Or try and explain to me what makes each highline unique. I don't care if people want to go out and build natural anchor highlines anywhere. Hell, even above existing climbs, though it might be polite not to hog popular routes for any length of time. it's first come first served at the cliff. i don't understand why you'd want to do it, but if you're not damaging anything, and being respectful of other cliff users, go for your life. if you want to put 6 bolts in each one, it needs a lot more explaining.

FatBoy
26-Apr-2018
1:06:55 PM
Pretty much agree - in short: knock yourself out so long as it doesn't directly impinge on others or permanently alter the rock.

For clarity:
  1. there's no need for any vegetation destruction though if you understand the way the ropes are set up
  2. the variation comes from increased (a) length, and (b) exposure, both of which increase the difficulty
stugang
26-Apr-2018
10:56:24 PM

>
>Interestingly, I don't think I've ever heard a climber offer to take out
>any bolts they placed due to other people being unhappy with them. So I
>think you're quite lovely.

thanks ben. I love it when someone gives me an excuse for me to contradict someone and also tell a fave boring story and to top it all off feel smug and superior. So here goes...."I've actually chopped my own bolts after being told by a person they were unhappy about them".

Gosh I'm gonna sleep well tonight.
Jayford4321
27-Apr-2018
8:09:21 AM
On 26-Apr-2018 stugang wrote:
>
>>
>>Interestingly, I don't think I've ever heard a climber offer to take out
>>any bolts they placed due to other people being unhappy with them. So
>>I think you're quite lovely.
>
>thanks ben. I love it when someone gives me an excuse for me to contradict
>someone and also tell a fave boring story and to top it all off feel smug
>and superior. So here goes...."I've actually chopped my own bolts after
>being told by a person they were unhappy about them".
>
>Gosh I'm gonna sleep well tonight.

Thanks for that stu.
I now think you're quite lovely too.

I've seen other peeps bolts chopped. They didn't think it was lovely but it did quieten 'em down.
Wendy
27-Apr-2018
11:10:49 AM
On 26-Apr-2018 FatBoy wrote:
>Pretty much agree - in short: knock yourself out so long as it doesn't
>directly impinge on others or permanently alter the rock.
>
>For clarity:
  1. there's no need for any vegetation destruction though
    >if you understand the way the ropes are set up

    I had been figuring that someone rapped with the ropes from the first anchor, bush bashed across the gully dragging ropes behind them, then hauled them up the other side. hence the destruction. or does a drone take a guideline across?


  2. the variation comes
    >from increased (a) length, and (b) exposure, both of which increase the
    >difficulty


I had figured that bit. they just don't seem like very variable variables. is one arete to another at the lighthouse that different? or the ones across the north gorge. terrifing and spectacular, sure. but is crossing from lgl that different to crossing from cr?
One Day Hero
27-Apr-2018
3:03:54 PM
I don't even particularly mind some well thought out bolted anchors, preferably with prior consultation rather than bullshit post-consultation mixed with fake compromise. Feet off ground sounds like an alright dude, but the various aspects of this whole situation which annoy me are;

- The systematic targeting of trad climbing areas. There's hundreds of kilometers of junk sea cliff in australia which climbers have no interest in at all. Go sink meter-long ringbolts in some remote chossy bit of the great australian bight and climbers won't hassle you. Go slackbolt a fuching sport crag. Why does it have to be the most prominent sections of a select few bits of cliff in the country where climbers have developed a minimal bolt ethic? i.e. Buffalo, Point Perp, Araps, Piddo.

- The slacklining startup company grassroots bullshit. I was taught from a young age to be suspicious of anyone's motives if they stand to make some money. Maybe one thing has nothing to do with the other, but running around bolting slackline anchors onto trad crags while advertising a company that charges money to teach people to slackline smells a little fishy.

- Sloppy work. I don't think that anyone who cares about a place would squirt glue around like that.

 Page 3 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 69
There are 69 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Landscape Photos Australia

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | High Country Mountain Huts | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints