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Chockstone Photography
Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 2 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 69
Author
Liquid Insanity
Dave_S
17-Apr-2018
3:16:09 PM
I suspect that bolt plates are not able to handle the forces that are placed on highline anchors...
PThomson
18-Apr-2018
3:55:21 AM
I think that adding more bolts to that particular part of Point Perp is tempting fate in an otherwise already sensitive area (the last attempts along such a line resulted in some pretty explosive backlash from multiple directions), compounded by the fact that that is a hideously messy job of gluing in the bolts.

I don't think that they have their place, personally.

- Frothy
Climb Point Perp
18-Apr-2018
5:26:02 AM
From my perspective these bolts take away from the amenity of the crag and contribute nothing.
For this reason I would like to see them removed.
feetoffground
18-Apr-2018
6:29:07 PM
Righto, I get the picture. I guess my judgement was a bit off in placing the bolts in this area. Iíll try and head down in the next few weeks and remove them, and hopefully get rid of those glue stains too..

In answer to a previous question, the problem with using the existing bolts for Highlines is that the quality of them varies wildly, but more importantly redirecting them to go off the aretes is often impossible as thereís generally no trad gear on these aretes. And if youre not all the way on the arete, thereís isually really bad fall potential.

Note: I would very much like to do some bigger Highlines around crocodile head and Thunder head. I will use trad gear wherever possible, but sometimes it just ainít possible. So if anyone has any problems with bolts in these areas please let me know. I will also confer with the guidebook and try and avoid topouts of popular climbs obviously.

I hope that climbers will perhaps perceive highliners in a better light now, as we are more than happy to compromise with other user groups to ensure the most utility and least problems for all, we just wanna enjoy the cliffs like all of you!

E. Wells
18-Apr-2018
6:47:51 PM
Bring a rag next time and half fill your hole from the very bottom , by the time u remove nozzle it should be turned off. Is there a way to build tightrope anchors discretely set back and then just put one bolt near edge to stabilize?
feetoffground
18-Apr-2018
6:54:14 PM
One last thing I want to point out about why this spot is/was so meaningful to me for highlining is that the first time we went to setup these Highlines around the lighthouse we went at sunrise and saw someone sitting on the cliff about to jump (I.e. commit suicide). We obviously stopped what we were doing and went to talk to him, and we managed to talk him out of it and even got a smile on his face. It was the only time I felt that I had saved someoneís life, and I definitely would not have been there if I wasnít highlining.

Itís a moot point now, but I just wanted to point out how significant Point Perp is for everyone.
One Day Hero
18-Apr-2018
10:35:45 PM
On 18-Apr-2018 feetoffground wrote:
>One last thing I want to point out about why this spot is/was so meaningful
>to me for highlining is that......blah blah blah, me me me.......
>Itís a moot point now, but I just wanted to point out how significant
>Point Perp is for everyone.

Now you've gotten me a bit cranky, and that means it's time for one of those famous rants which everyone is so fond of.

I've been climbing at the Point for over twenty years, dozens of days a year (except for a couple of overseas and injury years). I've had many significant experiences at Point Perp in that time. There was one day in particular, back in 2007, when........oh wait, nobody wants to read about this, because it was significant to me, not you. You weren't there, you don't know the people involved, it's just some boring fuching shit that happened to somebody else.

In exactly the same way, your dawn-suicide-slackline-story is a big pile of meaningless nothing to everybody who wasn't there (which is just about everybody). Don't get me wrong, I'm sure it was a profound experience for you. But how the fuch does it have anything the fuch to do with bolting a fuching cliff?!?

Jesus christ! Years ago, some fuching numpty down in Victoria went abseiling on a famous cliff which you may have heard of. Sometime later, said numpty died in a car crash. What did his mates do? They bolted and glued a fuching half square metre plaque in his honour directly on top of "the best pitch in the world", cause he'd abseiled off it once! Are you fuching kidding me?!?!?!

Maybe some stuff needs to be clarified here. Legitimate reasons for bolting cliffs do exist, and they all relate to the utility and safety of the climb (or slackline, I suppose) in question. Things which are not legitimate reasons to bolt a cliff include (but are not limited to); your cat had kittens, it's your granny's birthday, your bar mitzvah is coming up, you've decided on a career change, etc fuching etc! If you're bringing a fuching drill to one of the premier climbing areas in the country, you better have clear and logical reasoning for where and why you bolt. I swear to god, the next person who comes up with some sob story in their life and non-sequiturs directly into bolting, expecting nobody to notice the clanging noise of the logical disconnect......I'm just going to properly lose it and get into road cycling or something equally stupid.

While I'm on a roll, your workmanship is fuching embarrassing! You reckon that sloppy glue is going to peel off the rock like a sticker off a windscreen? Think again. It's more than likely soaked into all the pore space and if you try to scrape it off, it'll take the top layer of sand with it and be even more ugly. Do a tiny test patch, but my bet is that the least visually offensive result will be to just leave the glue there. So nice job on that. Maybe next time you could waste five bucks of glue learning to bolt properly on a rock in your backyard, before vandalising a world class climbing area?

End rant.

feetoffground
19-Apr-2018
6:51:48 AM
Dude I was just explaining one of the reasons the cliff is meaningful to me. Thatís clearly not the reason we bolted it, because we had already bolted it the night before. And we bolted it because itís one of the most beautiful Highlines at Point Perp, which I felt was a legitimate enough reason at the time. If you canít relate to the story thatís fine, I didnít write it to make people angry just to show itís significance.

Iím trying to work together with all user groups at this cliff to find the best outcome, but if people make personal attacks on me it doesnít really fill me with joy and motivate me to destroy my own work. I understand you were probably annoyed at what I wrote when you wrote your message, but please just try and keep it constructive.

While Iím on the thread of trying to be constructive. How would people feel if I left one threaded rod at each Highline anchor? I know itís a compromise, but that would potentially allow us to still highline there (during quiet times of course), and it could still be used by climbers (I'd obviously soften the edges too, so that ropes are safe). If youíre not happy with that, just let me know? If youíd be ok with that, would you prefer if I left the hanger on or took it off?

gfdonc
19-Apr-2018
7:36:18 AM
Could someone please make sure ODH takes his medication. Thanks.
widewetandslippery
19-Apr-2018
8:21:34 AM
ODH, gold. You need to go the heart strings on bigchris now. I,m off my feet and it's the little things that brighten the day.

nmonteith
19-Apr-2018
9:14:36 AM
Silly question - but could bolts be placed just over the lip and still be usable (out of sight of people up above?). That way you could actually use some of the lead bolts already on routes to rig.

rodw
19-Apr-2018
9:40:40 AM
Just a point of note..you seem to be under the assumption that the vocal voices on chocky are the climbing community which in fact they are not. Your trying for the impossible, get a consensus from a climbing community self opinionated minority. While it makes for entertaining reading during work hours I feel you no matter what you do you'll find someone to rant and rave about how it upsets them.

Rule of thumb in any development...work out if said activity is justified under your own guidelines and do or do not. if you go ahead get a thick skin and deal with said "feedback" or ignore it...because there will be some.

bendi
19-Apr-2018
10:03:09 AM
Rodw......I agree with your general point.....but the guy who put those particular bolts in, is also responsible for other questionable bolts at different crags too. He needs to change his style or there will be more problems


N.montieth, your suggestion is not silly at all, it's actually excellent way to think. Creative/minimal rigging/bolting is the future......Highlinners need to move away from the idea that 'grid bolting' (3 or more sometimes 5 rod/ rings is not the only way to make a strong anchor.


bigchris
19-Apr-2018
10:58:10 AM
On 19-Apr-2018 widewetandslippery wrote:
>ODH, gold. You need to go the heart strings on bigchris now. I,m off my
>feet and it's the little things that brighten the day.

I'd actually pay money to see what ODH is like around a campfire when he hasn't taken his happy pills.

PS: HEARTSTRING ME ODH

PPS: I climb off widths and ride a road bike. I like the feeling of wide cracks and lycra. So shiny.
gfdonc
19-Apr-2018
11:54:42 AM
On 19-Apr-2018 bigchris wrote:
>I'd actually pay money to see what ODH is like around a campfire when
>he hasn't taken his happy pills.

Then again, there was that story about the mallet...
gfdonc
19-Apr-2018
11:59:23 AM
On 19-Apr-2018 nmonteith wrote:
>Silly question - but could bolts be placed just over the lip and still
>be usable (out of sight of people up above?).

Not like this perhaps?
feetoffground
19-Apr-2018
12:20:08 PM
On 19-Apr-2018 nmonteith wrote:
>Silly question - but could bolts be placed just over the lip and still
>be usable (out of sight of people up above?). That way you could actually
>use some of the lead bolts already on routes to rig.

In theory this could work, but then no one can climb that route when the Highline is rigged. One of the reasons highliners put their own bolts in is so that weíre not stopping climbers from climbing. Also non Highline bolts have been pulled before when used on a Highline. That happened early on and set the precedent that highliners need our own bolts so that we know their quality and longevity, otherwise it becomes way more risky.
feetoffground
19-Apr-2018
12:31:25 PM
On 19-Apr-2018 bendi wrote:
>Rodw......I agree with your general point.....but the guy who put those
>particular bolts in, is also responsible for other questionable bolts
>at different crags too. He needs to change his style or there will be more
>problems
>
>
>N.montieth, your suggestion is not silly at all, it's actually excellent
>way to think. Creative/minimal rigging/bolting is the future......Highlinners
>need to move away from the idea that 'grid bolting' (3 or more sometimes
>5 rod/ rings is not the only way to make a strong anchor.
>
>

We are constantly evolving our bolting style, depending on rock quality, bolt size, available trad gear. Trying to be more discreet etc. But you have to also realise that these bolts were put in last year. And no one up until the start of this year had ever mentioned a problem with our Highline bolts, so these shifts have all been recent.

Having said that, I ageee with you in part that style needs to change and we have moved away from 5 bolt anchors, and where possible use 2 bolts if any. All recent Highlines at arapiles have been all natural.

ajfclark
19-Apr-2018
12:36:47 PM
On 19-Apr-2018 gfdonc wrote:
>On 19-Apr-2018 bigchris wrote:
>>I'd actually pay money to see what ODH is like around a campfire when
>>he hasn't taken his happy pills.
>
>Then again, there was that story about the mallet...

That was CJ...

shortman
19-Apr-2018
1:05:36 PM
On 19-Apr-2018 feetoffground wrote:

>One of the reasons highliners put their own bolts in
>is so that weíre not stopping climbers from climbing.

Yeah...na.

 Page 2 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 69
There are 69 messages in this topic.

 

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