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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion
General Climbing Discussion
|The Irish Solution to The Ben Lomond Problem
The Trinity Split (24) goes direct up the face L of Aqualung and R of Blue Eyed Son. Four pitches, 22, 24, 23 and 19, involving spectacular face climbing in some very runout situations. It was first attempted a few years ago by another party and a bolt from that attempt has been removed, but one of their pitons remains insitu: it was not clipped as there is a good cam placement next to it.
Gerry Narkowicz and Pat Butler, 2012.
Gerry NarkowiczMar 14, 2007
Stacks Bluff is on Ben Lomond and will remain bolt free, like all the other cliffs on the mountain. MInd you, I have felt tempted to put a bolt or two in at Africa - many big faces but no gear - however we need to respect the trad ethic that has prevailed since the early 70's. - some hard core trad climber will come along one day and lead those faces and aretes at Stacks and run it out from r.ps on 26+ climbing. They do it in England, but no-ones got the balls to do it Tassie.
...GERRY G-BANGA....every couple of years you get wobbly at the knees over this issue .......ya don't need balls to chop bolts put in by idiots .... or to climb 5.12 faces with rps......YOU JUST NEED ATTITUDE....
.....lest we forget...
OK, aghain it seems pitons are fine to leave hammered in all over the place but bolts are bad. Drill some holes, bang in some pins in the holes for rap ancors (aka Indian Creek) and problem solved.
.....oh very good....glad someone spotted the piton anomaly...
OK....G-BANGA.....IF UR FAIR DINKUM ABOUT ALL THIS.... THEN THIS SUMMER...YOU NEED TO REMOVE THAT PITON AND THOSE BLOODY TUBE CHOCKS PUT IN BY FANTINI........PEOPLE CAN BORROW THEM OFF YOU AND PLACE EM ON LEAD ....
...OK ...according to this there is only one now.....makes the ' decision' even easier...
Fantini's Offwidth aka Pipeline 45m 22
Climb the "hideous" west-facing offwidth past a specially made tube (there used to be two, but one has fallen out or otherwise vanished. Starts as a hand and then fist crack, but quickly gets into the swing of things.
...THERE IS NO ROOM FOR SQEAMISH SENTAMENTALITY......ROCK A DAY JOHNNY SHOULDA KNOWN BETTER ...AND NOT LEFT THEM THERE.....ITS GOTTA GO....
On 25-Jan-2018 seriously liza wrote;
>ROCK A DAY JOHNNY SHOULDA KNOWN BETTER
On 25-Sep-2017 The good Dr wrote:
>The obvious solution has been completely overlooked. Install any rap stations
>using pitons and shackles. Pitons have been used at Ben Lomond since the
>early days and still recommended for use (e.g. see the ice climbing guide).
>There are still old pins lingering on routes and not a word about removing
On 10-Oct-2017 The good Dr wrote:
>As I noted earlier, let us just go back to pitons as fixed pro and anchors
>at the Ben. Currently seems perfectly acceptable.
On 25-Jan-2018 The good Dr wrote:
>OK, aghain it seems pitons are fine to leave hammered in all over the place
>but bolts are bad. Drill some holes, bang in some pins in the holes for
>rap ancors (aka Indian Creek) and problem solved.
There iz a reason peeps R ignoring Ur commentz , but far B it for me to say itz a crap idea , so insted I'll just say good luck wiff that , an 2 back up my theory about some peeps think itz crap will quoteU agen -
On 4-Aug-2014 The good Dr wrote:
>Pulled these couple of dodgy pins on the weekend from Warmonger at Araps.
>The angle everyone relies on to stop hitting the belay ledge. This ended
>up being pretty loose and even though "fully" embeded it was in a flare
>and only had contact with the end couple of cm of the pin (you can see
>it if you look closely).
>The leeper was a bit below the angle, and of its condition ... well, enough
>said! Fortunately the leeper was embeded in a perfect cam placement (0.2
>X4 camelot works really well) high enough to be useful, so replacement
>fixed gear was not needed.
>Take care out there as this type of evil can be well hidden from view
>and difficult to assess by just looking at the gear. Just immediately assume
>it is dodgy!!
........................................................................................................................................" .......BUUUUUUUUUUUUUUURRRRRRRRRRRRP !!!!!!! "
...I usta hate CCR until I discovered this classic from the Fantini Years ...
There are 86 messages in this topic.
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