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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 35
Author
How to turn back the clock?.....
simey
27/04/2017
8:03:56 PM
On 27/04/2017 Wendy wrote:

>Hey, you publish books recommending shitty pox like Pixie's Delight -
>it because i've climbed all this stuff that I can actually verify they
>are shitty pox! Anyway, climbing all this mank still seem to have me climbing
>close to as well as I ever have. Maybe I should list that as a training
>strategy too.

At no stage do we recommend Pixies Delight in our guide. Our guide is a Selected Guide and some routes are selected because they are near other routes and look vaguely interesting (but I accept they might be pox). The fact Pixies Delight received no stars would suggest this is a possibility.

And if you were climbing all this mank and climbing better than ever before, then it might be worth listing as a training strategy. But given you aren't then it shows just what a waste of climbing time it is given the amount of quality routes you could be getting on.

Stugang
27/04/2017
10:28:14 PM
If you've only got a limited amount of time feeling strong then climb faster.

This isn't a wind up - it does kinda work. Wish I practiced it more when I had a modicum of strength and youth.
Wendy
Online Now
28/04/2017
6:49:46 AM
On 27/04/2017 simey wrote:
>On 27/04/2017 Wendy wrote:
>
>>Hey, you publish books recommending shitty pox like Pixie's Delight -
>>it because i've climbed all this stuff that I can actually verify they
>>are shitty pox! Anyway, climbing all this mank still seem to have me
>climbing
>>close to as well as I ever have. Maybe I should list that as a training
>>strategy too.
>
>At no stage do we recommend Pixies Delight in our guide. Our guide is
>a Selected Guide and some routes are selected because they are near other
>routes and look vaguely interesting (but I accept they might be pox). The
>fact Pixies Delight received no stars would suggest this is a possibility.

Yep, but you put it in a select guide of 1400 routes - meaning you suggest it is better than the other 1400 plus routes at the mount. I can't believe you even thought it looked vaguely interesting. The 25 squished in before it looks more interesting.
>
>And if you were climbing all this mank and climbing better than ever before,
>then it might be worth listing as a training strategy. But given you aren't
>then it shows just what a waste of climbing time it is given the amount
>of quality routes you could be getting on.

Did you miss the bit where I have done all the routes sub 23 in your guide, including the pox ones? Many of them 20+ times. You can't really say I've prioritising mank over quality. Besides, as I keep saying, a surprising number of them are good. Not to mention there aren't queues and they aren't polished because few people know about them. Besides, I did onsight Coyne Crack and a few other 23-5s in the states last October and if I hadn't had an annoying summer of getting sick, getting fit, getting sick again, I would expect to be climbing as well as ever, so it really can't be such a bad training strategy. But I do think it's main value trainingwise is it keeps me climbing a lot and it gives me more things to onsight at a crag where I have done about 1100 of the routes.

MisterGribble
28/04/2017
7:21:52 AM
The older I get.....

Eduardo Slabofvic
28/04/2017
12:27:37 PM
On 28/04/2017 MisterGribble wrote:
>The older I get.....

.....the more incontinent you become.

Grinder
28/04/2017
1:24:55 PM
On 26/04/2017 Wendy wrote:
>
>
>In Lemon Butter is one of those routes I often have a difficult experience
>on - I struggle up the start and cruise the top or cruise the bottom and
>die of terror on the top ... There are many 22s at the Mt I would lead
>again before that one! You could try leading Crooked Mile to TR Hidden
>Secrets or Brick Dust to TR Squeakeasy.

At the risk of hijacking a distracted thread, I'd be interested in the other 22's you would repeat before In Lemon Butter, Wendy. (There's only one 22 on Garden Wall - ho ho).
Wendy
Online Now
29/04/2017
9:40:14 AM
On 28/04/2017 Grinder wrote:
>On 26/04/2017 Wendy wrote:
>>
>>
>>In Lemon Butter is one of those routes I often have a difficult experience
>>on - I struggle up the start and cruise the top or cruise the bottom
>and
>>die of terror on the top ... There are many 22s at the Mt I would lead
>>again before that one! You could try leading Crooked Mile to TR Hidden
>>Secrets or Brick Dust to TR Squeakeasy.
>
>At the risk of hijacking a distracted thread, I'd be interested in the
>other 22's you would repeat before In Lemon Butter, Wendy. (There's only
>one 22 on Garden Wall - ho ho).

The list could get quite long ... just at mt I assmue? I do Glory Rodent, White Heat and Copyright a lot but that probably reflects my preferred style - they do have plenty of gear though. I think Hidden Secrets is the most user friendly 22 at the Mt. I do Squeakeasy a fair bit, but it helps to know about the gear on the first hard bit (skip this if you don't want beta - there's a red alien in one of the shallow pockets and a 1 rock behind the hold out right). Straw Dogs. Starless and Bible Black, Wall St (not that this is user friendly, it's burly gas but has gear and I like it). I'd normally put Cecilia on the list, but I did get spanked by it this summer :( There'd be more if I thought about a bit longer.

Just to clarify some not-hidden, not-gems at 22 from the select guide - Furry Bathtubs is grotty, with poor rock and poor gear and Fingersmith is a mossy slab traverse with old carrots (unless anyone has thought it worth replacing them recently)

robbie
29/04/2017
10:06:37 AM
Hi JDB,
I'm still having a go at 68. All be it very easy stuff. Set backs like surgery, injuries and aging certainly are a ball and chain, let alone the the jibes from the youngsters. All good fun.
Anyway:
* Injury prevention. Work the antagonist muscles.
* Mental training. Read, Vertical Mind. It deals with scripts that we evolve. at 57 if you are not a, "Spring Chicken," what are you?
* The game. Climb smarter not harder. If you don't use it.............
* The big picture. A day at a time.
"My work hear is now done."
Robbie (Smoke Signal Man)



robbie
29/04/2017
10:08:29 AM
On 29/04/2017 robbie wrote:
>Hi JDB,
>I'm still having a go at 68. All be it very easy stuff. Set backs like
>surgery, injuries and aging certainly are a ball and chain, let alone the
>the jibes from the youngsters. All good fun.
>Anyway:
>* Injury prevention. Work the antagonist muscles.
>* Mental training. Read, Vertical Mind. It deals with scripts that we
>evolve. at 57 if you are not a, "Spring Chicken," what are you?
>* The game. Climb smarter not harder. If you don't use it.............
>* The big picture. A day at a time.
>"My work hear is now done."
>Robbie (Smoke Signal Man)
>
>
>
jdb
1/05/2017
10:01:37 AM
Thanks for the feedback, you were all gentle on my wounded pride.

(apart from a Simey and Wendy's obligatory Selected Guide 'shite fight' - you two really need to have a scratching and hair-pulling contest in the main street of Natimuk and get over it)

GFDonc - I'll pack out my shoes with broken glass

Grinder - Thanks for getting us back on topic

simey
2/05/2017
12:25:36 AM
On 1/05/2017 jdb wrote:
>(apart from a Simey and Wendy's obligatory Selected Guide 'shite fight'
>- you two really need to have a scratching and hair-pulling contest in
>the main street of Natimuk and get over it)

Wendy started it.
Wendy
Online Now
2/05/2017
10:04:12 AM
It's all Simey's fault.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
2/05/2017
5:53:23 PM
On 26/04/2017 jdb wrote:
>blah blah...

I don't know, younguns these days, gee you'd reckon they try to make some feel old-
By the way, I've always found Gd 22 hard...
;-)

Duang Daunk
4/05/2017
1:04:57 PM
On 2/05/2017 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 26/04/2017 jdb wrote:
>>blah blah...
>
>I don't know, younguns these days, gee you'd reckon they try to make some
>feel old-
>By the way, I've always found Gd 22 hard...
>;-)
>
Turn back the clock? We already have that with daylight saving time climbs bro.

Bro M9 is right.
It's taken me a long time to get to where I am now in my climbing and the path hasn't always been easy. I have the scars to show for it and don't want to wind back clocks, as I want people to know why I look like I do!
As odius says; be proud of your decrepitude, just don't retro dumb-down stuff to the new level.
Either that or do the M9 option and take up aid.

jezza
5/05/2017
10:55:36 AM
>Now I'm no Spring Chicken (57), but I am not ready to give up on hard
>leads just yet.




Just redefine what a hard lead is (gr 18?), and work on your BODY TENSION, all sorted.

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 35
There are 35 messages in this topic.

 

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