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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 22 of 22. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 140 | 141 to 160 | 161 to 180 | 181 to 200 | 201 to 220 | 221 to 240 | 241 to 260 | 261 to 280 | 281 to 300 | 301 to 320 | 321 to 340 | 341 to 360 | 361 to 380 | 381 to 400 | 401 to 420 | 421 to 430
Author
Kim Carrigan BOOK
ima.seriousyoungliza
8-Sep-2017
4:13:32 PM
.
...STREWTH !!! ...this tthread has gone from 78000 to 84000 views since ima last here ...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/More_popular_than_Jesus

...U LOT STILL DONT GEDDIT !!!

...KIM CARRIGAN WAS AND ALWAYS WILL BE THE FIRST AUSTRALIAN ... NOT ONLY TO CLIMB GRADE 30+ ...BUT ALSO THE FIRST AUSTRALIAN TO CLIMB GRADE 31 !!! ... AND PROBABLY THE SECOND PERSON ...AFTER WOLFY.... TO CLIMB GRADE 31 ... IN THE WORLD !!!

BOULDER PROBLEM ...TOP ROPE ... RED POINT .... SOLO ... WHATEVA .... KIM CARRIGAN WAS THE FIRST AUSTRALIAN TO CLIMB AT THAT GRADE ... DEEEERRRRRRRR !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

THE GRADE 25 SLAB IS IRREVALENT TO THE FACT THAT KIM CARRIGAN CLIMBED GRADE 31 ...

..2 + 2 =4 ... NOT BECAUSE IMA SAYZ SO... BUT BECAUSE ITZ OBJECTIVE REALITY.... KIM CARRIGAN CLIMBED THE GRADE 31 WALL TO THE TOP OF THE WALL ...AND GOT MOMENTARILY ESTABLISHED ON THE SLAB !!! ...ITZ A SPORT CLIMB !!! SPORT CLIMBZ ARE ALLOWED TO FINISH ANYWHERE !!!...

...simey DIDNT MAKE THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE FREE ROUTE BECAUSE HE ADMITS TO NOT GOING ALL THE WAY TO THE SUMMIT !!! WHO CARES !!! .... HE STILL GETS CREDITED WITH A ( ONCE ) GREAT ROUTE ....

100 FEET HAS LAND SLIDED OFF THE TOP OF MT COOK ....WHO CARES !!!!

...SCREW THE GRADE 25 SLAB ... ITZ IRRELAVENT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x05QuAhpq6o

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vs3981DoINw


$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

...WHOSE THE KING OF GRADING IN AUSTRALIA ??????

...WHOSE THE ONE WHO BROUGHT ARAPS WORLD FAME ???????

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dcFrkm91y-c

http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=DisplayTopic&ForumID=15&MessageID=30222&Replies=2&PagePos=0&Sort=#NewPost

KIM was obviously a fan of KIMba during the Carrigan Years ...

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$






KC WILL ALWAYS BE *THE* LORD OF THE SYL RINGS !!!!!!



##############################################################

..some weirdness from 1978 ...distracting KCz brain waves when he was freeing Procul (26) ...the first of many hard new grades Kim established in Australia ...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=28GdWAjuACs
.


.







ima.seriousyoungliza
8-Sep-2017
5:52:19 PM
On 6-Sep-2017 White Trash wrote:
>Didn't KC have earstud?


on 26 oct 2016 ima quoted :

'..A charismatic and entertaining character , .Kim sported a punk look on a jock body...he wore the tiniest wired climbing nuts , called RPs , as ear rings...'

Big Dancing Banana Samuel L Jackson Read the Thread! from AnimateIt.net
ima.seriousyoungliza
8-Sep-2017
6:08:17 PM
.
.
Andy Pollit lookalike , David Fenton took this song

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LR4XNqrqxrU

to number one in australia in 1980 ....when the hardest rock climb in Oz was graded 27 ...........a year earlier, Tony Yaniro finally climbed Grand Illusion 29/30 ..in the USA...after 2 years effort and a model of the crux built above his bed ...this route was.one of the BIG motivating forces for Kim to push the grades at Arapiles ....Kim made the 5th ascevt of GI in 1985 ... 7th shot over 2 days ... the fastest ascent up to then .....heres some Jap dude making the 4th ascent...

http://www.supertopo.com/inc/photo_zoom.php?dpid=Ojo9Nj0oIyIiJA,,

...and heres another AndyP lookalike from the Carrigan Years ...a number one hit in 1981...the year of the cobweb...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u2T7wKdQsTo


.

...animated-climbing-image-0014

.

.
ima.seriousyoungliza
8-Sep-2017
7:58:42 PM
KC sed @ 2017 :

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=9629l

'..ever since we were absolute beginners at school , Mike Law and I would read Mountain magazine under our desks and dream of repeating the exploits of derring-do of those heroes of the time...'


http://www.mountainproject.com/v/106196416

...BIG THX TO CLAW FOR DRAGGING KIM AWAY FROM ROWING AND GETTING HIM INTO ROCK CLIMBING ...



ima.seriousyoungliza
8-Sep-2017
8:20:52 PM
..this 1981 kiwi classic..that went to number one in Austrakia... is for Creasy...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufBYaYJAERc

AndyP !!!!....canya ask ya mate Creasy if he really thought Pet Cemetery was 29.... or weather the whole fiasco was just to wind Kim up ?????????
Andy P
8-Sep-2017
11:21:20 PM
Might have to get back to you on the [supposed] look-a likes there ima as am far more dashing.
My mate Charlie doesn't stoop this low but I'll be sure to ask him about Pet Cemetery.

BTW. it's 'whether' not 'weather', and having a book published wot I rote tort me the difference between [brackets] an (parenthesis). Me spellings improoved too I fink.
Ha!


trog
1-Dec-2017
6:19:58 AM
off your game liza?

You missed a kim reference!!

Check it out, Kim gets a mention!!!

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=3016319&msg=3018121#msg3018121
ima.seriousyoungliza
9-Dec-2017
3:56:56 PM
Image and video hosting by TinyPic

>>>Check it out, Kim gets a mention!!!

YEP...KC GETS A MENTION HERE

AND HERE

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=9629l

OK....in his chat with AndyP recently ... KC recalls many of the EVENTS ... during his UK trip ....circa 1981....

NOW...to inject some of KCz OPINIONS AND VIEWS that he had AT THE TIME ....ima gunna include here some quotes from an interview that KC did with Crags magazine ( # 32 @ Sept 1981 )..WHEN HE WAS THERE......
...........................................................

INTRO GOES LIKE THIS:

'...Kim Carrigan is a 23 year old rock climber who is journeying the world in search of new rock new techniques AND IN PARTICULAR WORLD WIDE ACCLAIM.....He is a talented climber , immodest and outspoken with some interesting and abrasive views on the state of hard free climbing across 3 continents.
...Born in Sydney, Carrigan began climbing with a school-adventure group and quickly became an independent operator visiting his local crag in the Blue Mountains 80 miles away by train each weekend.
...After some two years he took his school holidays hitching the 800 miles to Arapiles ...WHERE ACCORDING TO HIM , HE FOUND HIS TRUE PASSION IN LIFE - HIMSELF AND ARAPILES IN THAT ORDER ...;


ima loves that bit

: D




.....................................................
ON HENRY BARBER :

'...Crags : Did you feel isolated from the rest of the world regarding development ?

KC : We never really thought about it much. We thought we were climbing pretty much as hard as the rest . Then Barber came over and showed us there was a bit more to climbing than we perhaps thought at the time. WE WERE DISGUSTED WITH HIM for being so arrogant and being so good. Henry really got Australian climbing going. He just did a lot of routes that we hadnt really thought about. He did a lot of pushing in style , like he used to pull his ropes down after each try....'


...................................................
ON THE BEST ROCK CLIMBERS DURING THE CARRIGAN YEARS

In Claws book , Claw sez at one stage Kim was the best climber in the world ...

Kim doesnt quite see it that way ... :

'...Crags : Do we have world class climbers in Britain ?

KC : Of course. Fawcett is obviously one of the best in the world, BUT THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS THE BEST. He'd certainly make the team though

Crags: What team ? Some kind of All Star 11 ? Do you really have some imaginary team ?

KC : Sure . Tony Yaniro is one just for Grand Illusion ......JIm Collins has to be in for Genesis.....Dougie Hall over here who Ive been climbing with. He's efficient , prolific , bold , totally world class...Obviously Fawcetts in. Its really impressive how he can go almost anywhere and do so many top routes. In Yosemite he's done the top crack climbs when he's not really a crack specialist - routes such as Phoenix........From Yosemite, John Bachar gets in . He's specialized but when he's good he's untouchable. He's just so good at bouldering No one has repeated Midnight LIghtning which is his showpiece right on a boulder in the middle of Camp Four.......Mark Moorhead from Australia who nobody has ever heard of but he gets in because he's done every one of my routes.......Also from Yosemite , Bill Price is probably the best crack climber. His route Cosmic Debris is pretty hard at 5.13.......By reputation, Kurt Albert the German is in and Wolfgang Gullich has done a lot in America . Those are the 2 Germans I know of ... and Jean Claude Droyer from France is highly rated I know.

Crags ; Thats 10 . Who is the eleventh man ? Do you get into the team ?

KC : I think I might

Crags : What about Livesey ?

KC ; He's past it, but young Jerry Moffat looks promising...I'll put him on the subs bench ...;





...............................................
ON BOLDNESS

'...KC : Boldness is something that Britain has which very few other places have . It's a tradition and should be protected.

Crags :Why do you consider boldness to be desirable ?

KC : It puts climbing above any other sport...'



.....................................................
ON YOSEMITE GRANITE VS ENGLISH LIMESTONE

'...KC : Crack climbing is inherently boring with only a certain amount of technique you can use and all the hard routes in Yosemite tend to be fitness problems rather than technical.

Crags : But surely the Yosemite climbers have big reputations and are rated among the best in the world ? !

KC : I would be interested to see them climb on limestone with poor protection and poor rock . So much of Yosemite climbing is pushing the physical side whereas on limestone it's pushing in your head ...'

Crags : So where would you say the future of rock climbing lies in terms of difficulty ?

KC : Certainly not in Yosemite - more like your limestone crags ..... and Arapiles..'




.................................................
ON KIM CARRIGAN VS JOHN ALLEN

@ June 2017 ... Andy P drew my attention to this gem...
>>>Hey ima, Kim gets a great mention on Nial Grimes' Jamcrack Podcast with John Allen.
>>>Cheers,
>>>AP.

http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-podcast/


Image and video hosting by TinyPic



'...He's The Boss.

The Boss. John Allen put up most of the best routes on gritstone. In the 1970s, as a teenager, he sizzled up most of grit's coolest lines and led the charge in what was later called the Gritstone Renaissance. Then in the 1980s he upped the technical standards of the day by styling what are today's prized ticks for any boulderer and high baller. ...'

........................................................
OK ...so wotz this all about ...

Baxter and Joe Friend reported in 1979 on the visit to Australia by Tobin Sorenson and John Allen ... the most significant visit by furrener climbers since Hot Henry Barber :

.':...Carrigan freed the four-meter ceiling on Tiger Wall, Fox on a Hot Thin Roof, after five days and graded it 28. This grade did not last long, however, as Sorenson repeated it with relative ease and regarded it 27. John Allen (UK) led the third free ascent...'

NOW ...nearly 40 years later , John Allen has some colourtul memories to share with us about his time at Arapiles

GO TO THE PODCAST AND CLICK INTO THE POINT STARTING 1.20 ( 1 hour 20 mins ) and youl get 5 mins of juicy stuff ...

John Allen : Kim was amazin ... he single handedly took Australian climbing forward.....we had friendly rivalry ...he pointed us at all these hard routes.....they were into ' sport climbing with wires ' ....sometimes youd see these climbs that had ropes hanging off them for 20 days ...KIm was a keen guy and he trained a lot ...the rock is a lot like a limestone - grit stone ...I really like it .... Kim had a climb Fox on a hot thin roof...which he graded 29 and took 30 days to climb...the hardest climb at the time ...Kim was going on and on about it ...and how horrendous it was ...and he was really enjoying the fact that we wouldnt be able to do it...this was a bit of an odd one cos most of his climbs we found to be pretty desperate...but I think we did it on like our second try !!! ...and it had taken Kim 30 days or something like that !!!!...that was a one off ... most of his stuff was dead hard ...'

Joe Friend interviewd Tobin Sorenson during the 1979 visit and it was published in Thrutch mag

http://www.supertopo.com/inc/photo_zoom.php?dpid=Ojg8NjohICYiLA,,
http://www.supertopo.com/inc/photo_zoom.php?dpid=Ojg8NjohJCMlLQ,,
Tobin compares himself to KC and compares his visit with that of Henry Barber :
.'...certainly we are no better than Australia's best now...This is the difference between Henry's visit and ours : he had the pickings and stood far above the climbers of that time...'
http://www.supertopo.com/inc/photo_zoom.php?dpid=Ojg8NjohKSshJA,,

Image and video hosting by TinyPic

Tobin was killed the year after his Arapiles visit....his pitons ripped out when he took a big fall while trying to solo a big rock n ice face

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tobin_Sorenson



.................................................
OK !!!! ... so John Allen had his say nearly 40 years after the visit ... NOW HERE'S KCz VERSION OF EVENTS 2 YEARS AFTER THE VISIT

Crags : What other outside influences were there apart from Henry Barber ?

KC : There were more influences created by Australians going overseas and coming back. Noboby of consequence visited Australia until 1979 and that was Tobin Sorenson and John Allen.

Crags :What effect did they have on you ?

KC : Well they just confirmed that we were climbing as well as we thought we were by then Tobin had done by that time all the top routes in Yosemite in good style which made him a top world climber.

Crags : How was our own Jon Allen doing ?

KC : He hadn't been climbing much for a long time and he decided he would have to get back into shape . So he just took what was the hardest route at the time and shook his way up it in the most appalling style and technique you can possibly imagine ...
..............................................

HOWEVER ... Baxter and Friend reported that Tobin and John finished their visit on a good note :

.'... the plum was undoubtedly Sorenson and Allen's beautiful and spectacular new route up the wall (23) and over the fifteen foot ceiling (25) right of Stranger's Eliminate... Tjuringa Wall, as they called it, was done in the best style and is one of the finest new routes at Mt. Arapiles in recent times....and
...Sorenson's unroped on-sight solo of the ceiling route Kachoong Left Hand (22) really slackened local jaws.





.....................................
ON EUROPE

...now there is one sentence in the whole interview that provides a portal for KC to enter ....when he writes THE BOOK ...

Crags : How does Australian climbing stand in the world today ?

KC : There's a lot of routes now that are as hard as anywhere in the English speaking world. It's very hard to know what is being done in Europe . Maybe there are one or two routes in each area like Yosemite and Colorado that are harder







ima.seriousyoungliza
9-Dec-2017
10:11:36 PM
OK....what most ...all ? ....Australian climbers don't have a clue about ... is wot Kim found when he DID start to visit Germany and France in the early 1980s ...and was involved with the beginings and evolution of the sport climbing revolution ...the ring bolts on SYL are one of the few clues ...

KIM ... WE'RE GUNNA NEEDA A WHOLE CHAPTER ON THIS EURO THING !!!!!.

...this is another clue

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=5117

'...He profoundly influenced a potent nucleus of his contemporaries who would become the world's most significant trend-setting rock climbing icons during a crucial era of emergence during which the modern sport of rock climbing was defining itself in France. These agents of the modern era included the likes of such highly regarded legends as Patrick Berhault, Jibe Tribout, Antoine LeMenestral, Didier Raboutou, Alain Ghersen, Jean-Marc Troussier, Alain Robert, Catherine Destivelle, Jacky Godoffe, Lynn Hill, Ron Kauk, Wolfgang Gullich, Kim Carrigan, Luisa Iovani, Stefan Glowacz, Beat Kammerlander, Jerry Moffat and everyone who tried to emulate them!...'
...................................................................................
and this is another clue

an article in Mountain # 93... by KC... about the transition of French climbing from a focus on mountain climbing to a focus on hard free climbing on local crags .. in the new red point style ...
.....................................................................................
and this is another clue .... ima posted @ Feb 2017 :

...a climbing trip is organised for some Slovaks to visit Frankenjurga , in 1983 ,,,, they are very impressed when they bump into Wolfy and Kim Carrigan...

http://alpinet.org/main/articole/blog_en_id_496_userid_0.html

When you put the article thru the translater , it comes out like this :

'...In the same year the Czechoslovak Alpine Association organized a trip Frankenjura and Pfalz where the best mule Slovaks saw with their own eyes what is free ascent. Sıcora Milan, the son of a Czech emigrant, led the group for climbers eager rocks and, to their surprise, climbed a IX +. At that time they met Gullich W. Kim Carrigan and other personalities in the bag with toothbrush magnesium,. Ours were not able to make only some eights but remained amazed by the new style of climbing and the use of magnesium. They were confident that home will be able to imitate Western aces and began a workout thinking....'

................................................................................................

..ALL OF THE ARM CHAIR EXPERTS ON KC THINK KC= AUSTRALIA= NEW WAVE = PROCUL HAREM

..that is sort of very narrowly right AND TOTALLY BROADLY VERY WRONG !!!!!!!



.
ima.seriousyoungliza
9-Dec-2017
11:11:52 PM
...the Crags interview of 1981 ends like this :

Crags : What are your next plans ?

KC : I'm going straight back to Australia, straight back to Arapiles.There are so many routes to do there . I'll need a year to catch up .

............................................................
...one of the ' many routes ' awaiting Kim was of course the one that Mark Moorhead had done in Kim's absence ....

....Kim would make a quick repeat of Cobwebs ( 28 ) ...and over the next 4 years ...go on to establish the first Australian climbs graded 29 ...30...and 31 ( THE MIGHTY SYL ...one of only two grade 31z anywhere in the world , at the time ....)



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There are 430 messages in this topic.

 

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