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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 21 of 21. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 140 | 141 to 160 | 161 to 180 | 181 to 200 | 201 to 220 | 221 to 240 | 241 to 260 | 261 to 280 | 281 to 300 | 301 to 320 | 321 to 340 | 341 to 360 | 361 to 380 | 381 to 400 | 401 to 418
Author
Kim Carrigan BOOK
ima.seriousyoungliza
5-Jul-2017
10:06:36 PM
thread DisTorTIOn !!!???!!!

gnaguts
6-Jul-2017
1:04:53 AM
ima.seriousyoungliza
7-Jul-2017
4:45:59 PM
...OK...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZrIjXKN0LZo

.............................


..............................................................................................

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DJ-DkA3sKiE



............................................................................................

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KnEOr1MgwTM

....................................................................................


....................................................................................

IdratherbeclimbingM9
7-Jul-2017
8:38:55 PM
Hex, are you on commission for Youtube?
Heh, heh, heh.

I still lament the fact that the climb Aunty Jack at Mt York has been dumbed down with a retrobolt, as I used to enjoy it as initially a testpiece, then later simply a yardstick as to my fitness and headspace..

I believe the retro happened after I moved on to other climbing locations for various reasons, and after I heard of the retro I've not been back to shed tears or chop it, which might have happened if I was still active in the area.

JMK
7-Jul-2017
8:47:24 PM
As far as I can tell, Zipper next to it has been retroed. Doing Aunty Jack is the same. You still clip the first bolt on Zipper on the way through, same as when I did it for the first time in 1994.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
7-Jul-2017
9:00:42 PM
I'd moved on by '94. How does it compare from then back to '84?

JMK
7-Jul-2017
9:49:41 PM
Hard to say if it is easier or harder than in '84. On one hand better gear, much better rubber but weaker attitudes
ima.seriousyoungliza
8-Jul-2017
6:15:09 PM
.
...
..." blah...blah...blah "....." blah...blah...blah "


...here ya go , boys ....while ya in the mood ....gimme ya spin on this '...fitness and headspace... ' training from 1979 :



>>>'84

Lincoln Shepherd morphed into ***Slinkin Leopard (28 ) by Geoff Weigand in 1984

'...Surely one of the best route names in the country...' (thecrag)

ima.seriousyoungliza
11-Aug-2017
6:12:02 PM
.
..stugang-gangnuts....my dear enemy ....." ...IF U NO ALL THEY SAY U DO....THEN WHY ISN'T THE ANSWER ON MY SCREEN ?????..."

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dN85Fjwvq-M

.

Stugang
11-Aug-2017
7:40:16 PM

That's sweet. He had very pretty earrings and I really liked the way they flashed in the light when they dangled.

Thanks for posting.

MisterGribble
12-Aug-2017
12:31:39 PM
Looks like Andy P has stolen some thunder here, he's actually interviewed Kim Carrigan!!
ima.seriousyoungliza
13-Aug-2017
7:16:26 PM
...OH VERY GOOD !!!...

: D

,,,iva been sensing a changing mood of concensus in relation to this thread ...the BOOK ...and THE MAN ...

>>>Looks like Andy P has stolen some thunder here...

NAH !!!!!....getting under Undy's skin has led to a wonderful contribution ...


...and herez another aussie new wave classic from 1983.....it fairly rocks along when da lads hit top cog ...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5tQdk79q7N4



Andy P
14-Aug-2017
12:35:06 AM
On 13/08/2017 ima.seriousyoungliza wrote:
>...OH VERY GOOD !!!...
>
>: D
>
>,,,iva been sensing a changing mood of concensus in relation to this thread
>...the BOOK ...and THE MAN ...
>
>>>>Looks like Andy P has stolen some thunder here...
>
>NAH !!!!!....getting under Undy's skin has led to a wonderful contribution
>...
>
>
>...and herez another aussie new wave classic from 1983.....it fairly rocks
>along when da lads hit top cog ...
>
>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5tQdk79q7N4
>
>
>Hmm ima, could you've found a gayer clip - not that I have 'that' phobia whatsoever - in fact totally the opposite. To the point that I'm not gay but me boyfriend is, Ha!
Don't cast nasturtiums.
Ta,
And.


>
ima.seriousyoungliza
14-Aug-2017
9:47:45 PM
.
...HUH ?????


..anyway...herez .another new wave classic from 1983...

..just4u Undy...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmcA9LIIXWw

....ooohhhh yeeeeaaaahhhhhh....hopefully this one ...also from the androgynous year of 1983 ....will satisfy u , Undy...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bMw_iosf5QI


...and this DOES rock...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5tQdk79q7N4

..and so does THIS !!!
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=9629l


....and ifya still dont get wot ima onabout...ur v done a fkn good job ...

...BUT........Undy.....the question still remains...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLZl6vgT7HM

AND hopefully this is the answer ...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-VZP1pCIL8

: D

.



ima.seriousyoungliza
15-Aug-2017
12:29:16 AM
On 5/07/2017 ima.seriousyoungliza wrote:
>>> till a certain guest appearances happens soon ...

...that was an uncanny premonition ...

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=9629l

'...Yeah, The Ring Route aka Serious Young Lizards really proved a bridge too far. The astounding thing was, that I'd bolted this route in 1982, long before anyone thought this would even be possible, which meant that I spent a long time learning the moves and developing the strength and fitness needed for a route like this. There was a complete lack of other routes of this difficulty from where this fitness could be gained. Despite being able to climb every move in my sleep, I could never quite bring it together. I still remember my best effort. I'd been shopping in Horsham for the weekly groceries and my fingers were already strained from carrying the shopping bags, but I thought I'll just pop up and give it a go. It had been drizzling, but because the wall was so steep, the route remained basically dry. First shot, I managed to redpoint straight to the last hold, but promptly slipped off mantling onto the wet slab above. That was it.....'

YEAH... ' THAT WAS IT , ' KIM !!!! .... YOU CLIMBED THE FIRST 31 IN AUSTRALIA ...AND ONE OF THE FIRST 31 z IN THE WORLD !!! .......GET THE FARK OVER IT !!!! ... YOU *DID* CLIMB SERIOUS YOUNG LIZARDS ( 31) !!! ....

.Image and video hosting by TinyPic

..............................................................................................................................

GRADE 38.......9b+ ..........LA DURA DURA .........2013....Ondra & Sharma....[ Australia...NOT YET ]

GRADE 37......9b...........CHILAM BALAM ...2003.......Bernabè Fernandez,....[ Australia...NOT YET ]

GRADE 36......9a+.........OPEN AIR .......1995........Alex Huber......[ Australia...NOT YET ]

GRADE 35 ......9a ..........ACTION DIRECT......1991........Wolfgang Gullich.......[ Australia 2013 ....Alex Megos....RETIRED EXTREMELY DANGEROUS ]

GRADE 34......8c+............HUBBLE.........1990.......Ben Moon......[ Austalia 2004...Chris Webb....WHITE LADDER ]

GRADE 33......8c............WALL STREET.......1987......Wolfgang Gullich......[ Autralia 1999 ..Garth Miller ...GREY AREA ]...



GRADE 32……8b+…….PUNKS IN THE GYM…...1985…...Scheel / Gullich / Moffat..........end of the Carrigan Years

GRADE 31……..SERIOUS YOUNG LIZARDS …1982 -1985…,KIM CARRIGAN

GRADE 30…….( the PRE-chipped version of ) ETHIOPIA……1984…KIM CARRIGAN

GRADE 29 ……..MASADA ….1984…KIM CARRIGAN... & CARRIGAN-sequence on INDIA (1982)…..KIM CARRIGAN

GRADE 28……COBWEBS….1981….Mark Moorhead

GRADE 27…...FOX ON A ROOF & PICKING WINNERS….1979….KIM CARRIGAN

GRADE 26…….PROCUL HAREM…..1978….KIM CARRIGAN

GRADE 25…….OSTLER…...1978…Chris Pieksta…

GRADE 24…...COUNTRY ROAD….1976…Claw & Taylor….


1975 ...Henry Barber visits Aus and consolidates Grade 23..and inspires the start of the Carrigan Years


GRADE 23 …..ALBATROSS…1974…Ian Lewis…..

GRADE 22......VALLHALLA 22M2 .....1972......Rick White

GRADE 21......JANICEPTS...21 MO…1966 ... .Ewbank

GRADE 20........THE MASTERPIECE......20 M4....Ewbank

GRADE 19 .......ZACHERIUS 19,M1 ..........1964....Ewbank

GRADE 18……..THE ETERNITY aka YORKSHIRE CRACK .....1965.........Ewbank

GRADE 17…… NW FACE FEDERATION PEAK ….1961.....Ohalleran etal…..& .....LIEBEN @ Warrumbungles…..1962.....Bryden Allen

......................................................................................................................

.


..(1)...SYL (31) KIM CARRIGAN 1982-1985

Make it onto the slab at the top ...and jump off (ima)

...(2)...Lord of the rings (31) STEFAN GLOWACZ 1986

Remarkably sustained face on thinner and thinner holds. If you fall off the slab you'll be in good company.(the crag )

Climb SYL then continue up the grade 25 slab above ( ima )

...(3)...THE Lord of the rings (31) NICK SUTTER 1990s

Start at the weakness down right of "Wackford Squeers" and go fairly much straight up.(the crag)

The direct start to SYL ( ima )

...(4)...Destroyer of the rings(32) LEE COSSEY 2015

Awesome sustained face climbing linking Lord of the rings and Zorlac the destroyer. (thecrag)

So the route starts as for Lord of the Rings and NOT THE Lord....I climbed the direct start (THE Lord...) when I did that route.
I don't think the climbing or holds are very nice and it is basically a height-dependent crux that
doesn't add bugger all to the route. Hence I chose to take the original Lord start when doing the link-up.( LeeC )

Description:
Start as for LOTR clipping the carrot and first 2 ring bolts. Immediately
before the 3rd ring climb leftward past a single SS fixed hanger towards
the subtle right-facing flake. Follow this directly into the crux of Zorlac
the Destroyer( LeeC ).

Re climbing across the slab.... the link-up heads leftward a few meters lower than the height of the slab.( LeeC )

Climb SYL to just below the 3rd bolt then head left as per LeeCz description (ima )

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

.................................................................................................

..ADAM ONDRA hazzachat about the approach to GRADE 40........

www.climbing.com/people/adam-ondra-the-future-of-climbing/

...of which John Ewbank and Kim Carrigan will always be the main men in relation to that in the Australian climbing con text ....


$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

.
ima.seriousyoungliza
15-Aug-2017
12:54:34 AM
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=9291
'...JM: It's funny when you drive past Little Plum and look at it now it looks such a crappy route. Back in the early 80s Stoney Middleton had the most condensed number of hard routes of any cliff in the country. To get a first ascent there on something hard at the time was massive. I can remember a family friend asking me what my ambition was in climbing and I replied: 'To do Little Plum'. I can remember thinking if I do that and never do another climb my career will be successful. I wasn't really getting very close, then Kim Carrigan and Dougie Hall (who were top climbers at the time) walked past. I wanted to impress them and did it right there and then. They had both tried it and had also tried Genesis in Colorado. Genesis was supposed to be one of the hardest routes in the world and I remember them saying the difficulties the move felt about the same. After doing that crappy boulder problem route at Stoney I felt ready to take on the world....'

>>>wanted to impress them...





Jerry makes it to America...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RM-zsZM_VwM

http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/jerry-moffatt-interview.html

.'...Was that a buzz?
A massive buzz. I remember being sat on the plane on the way home again, nineteen years old, thinking I must be the best climber in the world! Can you imagine it?...'\

>>>Can you imagine it?

YES JERRY...I CAN IMAGINE YOU GIVING KIM CARRIGAN TOTAL CREDIT FOR THE SUCCESS OF UR CLIMBING CAREER ...BECAUSE KIM GAVE YOU A MASSIVE KICK IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION ... THE DAY HE PSYCHED YOU UP LITTLE PLUM !!!...AND INSPIRED YOU TO TAKE ON THE WORLD !!!

...and BEN MOON ..who climbed the first 34 in the world only acjeived that because Kimz mate Claw ....


$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

syl2



...ANDREA HAH & KC CRANKING UP SERIOUS YOUNG LIZARDS (31)......KCz left hand is on the same hold as the one Andrea (far right) is using with her left hand ...............same place ....30 years apart ...



slab6


...above Andrea .is the infamous short grey slab of Lord of the rings ...........grade 25 ........when its dry ...



.
ima.seriousyoungliza
17-Aug-2017
12:19:05 AM
.


http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/642582/Arapiles-The-Empire-Strikes-Back-Child-Carrigan-81



http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/Australasia/Australia/Queensland/South_East_Queensland/Glasshouse_Mountains/Tibrogargan_-_Upper_Overhangs/Raptures_60m_24_12077.html





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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5wdBLfFH7DA


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gnaguts
21-Aug-2017
6:28:03 PM
>...above Andrea .is the infamous short grey slab of Lord of the rings ...........grade 25 ........when its dry ...
but itz not a route tho izzit, so Y r U still tryn 2 diffrenti8 it as even KC admitz he din't climb it.

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There are 418 messages in this topic.

 

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