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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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Author
Kim Carrigan BOOK
imaseriousyounglizar
2-Sep-2015
8:37:42 PM
Good Afternoon
imaseriousyounglizar
2-Sep-2015
8:50:39 PM
From Climbing # 93 @ December 1985 ...

'...Carrigan is currently eager to return home to yet another project, a route at Arapiles which he has named Serious Young Lizards, which he is certain will be Grade 32 , which would be 5.14 in America. " I don’t have many rivals in Australia," he says...'


maxdacat
3-Sep-2015
9:16:43 AM
Such modesty :p
simone
3-Sep-2015
9:26:55 AM
On 2/09/2015 imaseriousyounglizar wrote:
>a route at Arapiles which he has named Serious Young Lizards, which he
>is certain will be Grade 32

Can't be much of a route as it dint make simeys Raps Select Guide.
widewetandslippery
3-Sep-2015
9:41:59 AM
he bolted it but never climbed it. I rate Sutters as the first ascent as he went up and didnt traverse in. And it ends up at 31.
hero
3-Sep-2015
9:56:36 AM
Serious Young Lizards

http://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/arapiles/king-rat-area/route/12866959
prb
3-Sep-2015
11:57:41 AM
On 3/09/2015 simone wrote:

>Can't be much of a route as it dint make simeys Raps Select Guide.

simey must have thought about it. I stand by what I wrote on thecrag.com:

"Good little route - I would list it under Catcher in the Selected Climbs book."

It wouldn't be the worst climb in the King Rat section although I admit I just sampled it on a toprope and an Ascender.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
3-Sep-2015
2:35:45 PM
Serious Young Lizards

According to the VCC 1989 Arapiles (limited edition reprint) Guidebook, which also includes the Mt Arapiles Update No2 (Rock Guide of almost 200 routes; by C. Baxter).
Serious Young Lizards 15m 18
At the R end of the long juggy wall behind and 100 m R of Catcher is a yellow section with some short cracks. This route takes two cracks up the tallest part of the wall. Jon & Brigitte Muir. (Date unknown*).


(*The Crag says date 1985)
prb
3-Sep-2015
3:07:09 PM
I reckon it was in Louise's book as well.

Duang Daunk
3-Sep-2015
6:58:12 PM
On 3/09/2015 widewetandslippery wrote:
>he bolted it but never climbed it. I rate Sutters as the first ascent as
>he went up and didnt traverse in. And it ends up at 31.

Since Jon and Brigitte took the piss, WTF are you talkin about bro?
Or as M9/kuu/BA/almost simey/other suitable old fart might say, please elaborate.
dalai
3-Sep-2015
7:35:37 PM
On 3/09/2015 Duang Daunk wrote:
>On 3/09/2015 widewetandslippery wrote:
>>he bolted it but never climbed it. I rate Sutters as the first ascent
>as
>>he went up and didnt traverse in. And it ends up at 31.
>
>Since Jon and Brigitte took the piss, WTF are you talkin about bro?
>Or as M9/kuu/BA/almost simey/other suitable old fart might say, please
>elaborate.

WWS is referring to the FA of the orginal Serious Young Lizards of which Kim was trying to send; now known as Lord of the Rings.
hero
4-Sep-2015
8:19:37 AM
Old fart to the rescue. I did what is Serious Young Lizards and named it (seriously taking the piss) but found out later that it had been done previously by Jon and Brigitte so they're are listed as the first ascentionists.

Kim was spouting off in the climbing magazines about this route he hadn't done and it's name and whilst I wasn't good enough to steal the route, I could steal the name. By the way, I followed the late great Kurt Albert up this route. He was totally in on the jape. If we had done the FA it would have been his only new route at Arapiles.

widewetandslippery
4-Sep-2015
9:36:25 AM
Dalai is spot on.

Kim had adds of him on the route in question.

NB: i am an expert at bolting routes I can't climb.
imaseriousyounglizar
5-Sep-2015
1:20:10 PM
'...Old fart to the rescue. I did what is Serious Young Lizards and named it (seriously taking the piss) but found out later that it had been done previously by Jon and Brigitte so they're are listed as the first ascentionists.

Kim was spouting off in the climbing magazines about this route he hadn't done and it's name and whilst I wasn't good enough to steal the route, I could steal the name. By the way, I followed the late great Kurt Albert up this route. He was totally in on the jape. If we had done the FA it would have been his only new route at Arapiles...'

HERO ( FARQ2 ?) ... thanks for clarifying that one ...... I always thought it was too much of a low act for someone as ' nice ' as Sir Jon...

imaseriousyounglizar
5-Sep-2015
1:24:07 PM
On 4/09/2015 widewetandslippery wrote:

>Kim had ad [ vert ] s of him [ self ] on the route in question.


ibid :

'...In 1983, Carrigan left Australia for England once again. On this trip he visited France and Germay as well. While in Germany, Kim got a lucky break. A friend mentioned to him that Mammut, the rope manufacturer, was looking for a climber to sponsor. Kim jumped at the opportunity. He met with company officials at a Munich trade show, and the deal was arranged. “I had to sell myself as a great climber,” he recalled, “but it worked!”...'

Kim .... YOU R DA MAN !!!

: D

...and this then leads into the connecting- beta provided by DaveC :

>>> he was offered a plum job by Mammut in Switzerland starting in early 1986

.


.

.
imaseriousyounglizar
5-Sep-2015
1:59:24 PM
On 13/08/2015 imaseriousyounglizar wrote:

>... and of cause pushing out with Procul
>26...Fox 27 ... Cobwebs 28 (MM)...India 29 ....Masada/Ethiopia 30 ...and
>99% of SYL / Ring Route / Lord 31.

ibid :

'...Of Carrigan’s first ascents at Arapiles, he considers Procol Harem one of the most important. Henry Barber had tried the line, declaring that it would certainly go free at 26, despite the skepticism of the locals. But, prompted by Barber’s prediction, Carrigan tried the line and, much to everyone’s surprise, reached a point only five feet below the top on his first day. Two days later, Procol Harem was the hardest route in the country at 26...'


Procul @ 2011 ish...

https://alexlewisclimb.wordpress.com/2012/01/10/november-at-arapiles/
.
'... staring down the overhanging trench looming out over the landscape...'

click on the image to get the A4 juice ...


.


.
imaseriousyounglizar
5-Sep-2015
2:09:45 PM
I think theres a climb called ' When Kim was a girls name ' ...

In this age of globalization and political correctness ...

This thread is not about :

http://www.boston.com/partners/whdh/3/carrigan.html

deerrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr...

.
imaseriousyounglizar
5-Sep-2015
2:14:24 PM
On 4/09/2015 hero wrote:
> By the way, I followed the late great Kurt Albert
>up this route...

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kurt_Albert

'...In the routes he would now try to ascend while free climbing, he would—in between attempts—paint a red 'X' on the rocks near pitons he did not need as holds or steps. Once he could place a red 'X' on all the pitons and hooks in the route, and was thus able to free climb the entire route, he would paint a red dot at the base of the route. From this comes the English term "redpoint",...'


WHALE OIL BEEF HOOKED !!!


.
Jayford4321
5-Sep-2015
3:06:22 PM
Hey lizard dude. Are you bored and alone on an early spring afternoon?

PM me if you wants an hug.
imaseriousyounglizar
5-Sep-2015
3:13:58 PM
>>> if you wants an hug.

Id love to ...but I will prolly catch troll-mange off you ...


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There are 426 messages in this topic.

 

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