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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 16 of 22. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 140 | 141 to 160 | 161 to 180 | 181 to 200 | 201 to 220 | 221 to 240 | 241 to 260 | 261 to 280 | 281 to 300 | 301 to 320 | 321 to 340 | 341 to 360 | 361 to 380 | 381 to 400 | 401 to 420 | 421 to 426
Author
Kim Carrigan BOOK
widewetandslippery
8-Mar-2017
1:58:41 PM
On 8/03/2017 ima.seriousyoungliza wrote:
>...love the emotion your generating for the book ....keep clinging to
>ur predugices ...clichés...stereotypes...and ur own good
>ol daze...
>
>: D

I remember the god old daze when Kim was a Kunt as a boss
ima.seriousyoungliza
8-Mar-2017
2:02:18 PM
...really...ud be well advised to do 2 things .....get over it ....and check out the defarmation of character laws...
ima.seriousyoungliza
8-Mar-2017
2:06:26 PM
>Did Carrigan actually climb 30? I mean anything which has stayed 30?

YEP ...many timers the crux of SYL..and Ethiopia ...which davej says has POST Carrigan chips on it ...

https://vimeo.com/75293650

> Cause it looks to me like all those Brits and Germans and Frenchies were smashing out 8c around the time Kim quit (or just a little later).

Kim didn't quit or ' wander off ' ( Claw ) ...he ....peaked.....nothing wrong with that ....specially when the hardest routes in Aus were around 20 when Kim started climbing...

....8c ? ...thats grade 33 and the first one didnt appear until 1987 ...... the Carrigan Years finished the day Wolfy got up Punks 32

>You really going to sit there and claim that someone can be three or four grades below top standard, and still be "among the best climbers in the world"?

He was ONE grade off the pace the day Wolfy got up Punks...and DURING the Carrigan YEARS...Claw says that at one point , ..
'...I hate to admit it , but KIM WAS THE BEST CLIMBER IN THE WORLD....he might of even been better than me ...'

...a bit of gggrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr going on there Claw ...its always tough when someone u introduce to the activity gets better than u ...

...BUT HEY !!!! ...apparently you u regarded as being more ' colourful ' than Kim .....u get a trophy for that ...

; P



One Day Hero
8-Mar-2017
3:46:18 PM
On 8/03/2017 ima.seriousyoungliza wrote:
>YEP ...many timers the crux of SYL..and Ethiopia ...which davej says
>has POST Carrigan chips on it ...

Apparently you don't get how this whole climbing thing works. Is there a route in the guidebook called Serious Young Lizards, gr30, fa Kim Carrigan? No. You know why?

I've heard more people calling Ethiopia 29 than 30. Post f.a. hold mods? Show me what ya got.

>Kim didn't quit or ' wander off ' ( Claw ) ...he ....peaked.....nothing
>wrong with that ....specially when the hardest routes in Aus were around
>20 when Kim started climbing...

I think Keith Bell and Joe Friend were climbing 22 in the early 70's. When did Jezebel get freed? That thing is solid 23, miles harder than Gentleman's Drag. So, nope.

It sounds like the New Wave pushed onsighting and dogging about 4 to 5 grades in 10 years. Still impressive, but not completely out of line with the decade before or after. Where does the "10 grades" bullshit come from?
>
>the Carrigan Years finished the day Wolfy got up Punks 32

That's just, like, your opinion, man.


>Claw says that at one point , ..
> '...I hate to admit it , but KIM WAS THE BEST CLIMBER IN THE WORLD....he
>might of even been better than me ...'

Mikl enjoys the odd dramatic and controversial statement. The problem is, there's a bunch of hard routes from the late 70's (e.g. Grand Illusion) which have gone up in grade (while Carrigan's routes have mostly gone down). And then, by 83/84 you have Edlinger, Moffat, Gullich, Scheel coming onto the scene........and Carrigan wasn't as good as those guys.

So maybe he had 2 to 3 years of relevance (not domination) in the early 80's. Good news is, "The Carrigan Years, 1979-84" will be much quicker to write.
Dave J
8-Mar-2017
3:51:25 PM
On 8/03/2017 ima.seriousyoungliza wrote:
>>Did Carrigan actually climb 30? I mean anything which has stayed 30?
>
>YEP ...many timers the crux of SYL..and Ethiopia ...which davej says
>has POST Carrigan chips on it ...

I always assumed it was carrigan who chipped it. ca't imagine that I would ever have said otherwise.

On 5/03/2017 ima.seriousyoungliza wrote:
>davej reflected on SERIOUS YOUNG LIZARDS @ 2016 :
>
>>>>the ring route was in a totally different league ...(harder than punks
>in my opinion). If kim had managed to get up that when he nearly did that
>would have been an internationally significant ascent....

I think you overlooked the IF and the WOULD HAVE. Falling off the slab is not that uncommon. I fell off there a couple of times before I got up it.
ima.seriousyoungliza
8-Mar-2017
4:02:58 PM
>>>Mikl enjoys the odd dramatic and controversial statement

Yeah righto damo...


On 8/03/2017 Dave J wrote:
>I always assumed ...

RIIIIIGHT..........lets meet Kim half way on that one eh ...benefit of the doubt ....

>Falling off the slab
>is not that uncommon. I fell off there a couple of times before I got up
>it.

OK...please sir....what grade ,IS the slab on SYL...
ima.seriousyoungliza
8-Mar-2017
4:11:20 PM
Kim evagilizied about the new sport climbing religion in Europe ( which he was involved with from day one )

'...SmithRock.com: Speaking of the beginning of sport climbing, how did you decide to start putting routes up on rappel?
Alan: Well, there were two reasons. Part of it was just out of necessity to do the more appealing lines. The other reason was that it was just easier. Going from the ground up, doing routes that way, was pretty scary!
Part of it was just being a wimp, when it came down to it. But routes that we could climb from the ground up were becoming few and far between.
Smithrock.com: Were others placing routes on rappel before you, and did you know if it was being done that way in Europe?
Alan: No, I had no idea. It wasn’t until ’85, I think, before we started to understand what they were doing in Europe. Mainly when Kim Carrigan and Johnny Woodward and Jeff Weigand came to Smith in ’85, they let us know what was going on....'

http://smithrock.com/alan-watts/
widewetandslippery
8-Mar-2017
4:12:40 PM
is'nt serious young lizards a route in yesterday gully or northern group put up by John Muir or some one like that, think it was in the second issue of updates in Rock moons ago. Kim to my knowledge never climbed a route called serious young lizards.
ima.seriousyoungliza
8-Mar-2017
4:22:21 PM
talkin of slabs...here's KC on the FA of Superfine(22) at Buffalo....hand drilled bolts ...with the rangers hearing the ' woodpeckers '...and EBz....Claw says this route is still pretty desperate even with sticky rubber ...

dalai
8-Mar-2017
4:26:26 PM
On 8/03/2017 ima.seriousyoungliza wrote:
>>Falling off the slab
>>is not that uncommon. I fell off there a couple of times before I got
>up
>>it.
>
>OK...please sir....what grade ,IS the slab on SYL...

Grade of the slab is immaterial. If you fall off above the crux of a route, you can't claim you have climbed that grade.

The grade of the route incorporates the whole climb and not just sections.
Bob Saki
8-Mar-2017
4:30:49 PM
More friendly/appreciative audience here

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2669534/Kim-Carrigan-BOOK
ima.seriousyoungliza
8-Mar-2017
4:31:20 PM
BAHAHAHAHAHAAAAAAAAAA

:D

ima drownin in endophins with u lot goin berserk on tha KC burly trail ...
ima.seriousyoungliza
8-Mar-2017
4:32:38 PM
On 8/03/2017 Bob Saki wrote:
>More friendly/appreciative audience here
>
>http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2669534/Kim-Carrigan-BOOK


HOOOORAAAAAYYYYYY !!!!!!

: D
ima.seriousyoungliza
8-Mar-2017
4:35:36 PM
On 8/03/2017 dalai wrote:
>Grade of the slab is immaterial. If you fall off above the crux of a route,
>you can't claim you have climbed that grade.

YES U CAN !!!! ...but u c#nt say u climb the route !!!!

>The grade of the route incorporates the whole climb and not just sections.

YEAH RIGHT TELL ALL THIS TO THE LEGENDS WHO ONLY CLIMB THE TOP PITCH OF SERPENTINE ....
Bob Saki
8-Mar-2017
4:35:48 PM
Interesting the two different takes across forums. Us Aussies are wind up merchants.
I for one would like to see the book. I am sure there must great tales even when that crew went to the You Yangs to work on that Aid Route at Gravel Pit, seemed a circus according to the guidebook.
ima.seriousyoungliza
8-Mar-2017
4:43:16 PM
>>>I for one would like to see the book..

DaveC @ 2014

>>>The wally posting all the shite on this thread is right about one thing, A Carrigan book would definitely be worth a read, I always liked his writing.
widewetandslippery
8-Mar-2017
4:43:43 PM
On 8/03/2017 ima.seriousyoungliza wrote:
>On 8/03/2017 dalai wrote:
>>Grade of the slab is immaterial. If you fall off above the crux of a
>route,
>>you can't claim you have climbed that grade.
>
>YES U CAN !!!! ...but u c#nt say u climb the route !!!!
>
>>The grade of the route incorporates the whole climb and not just sections.
>

>YEAH RIGHT TELL ALL THIS TO THE LEGENDS WHO ONLY CLIMB THE TOP PITCH OF
>SERPENTINE ....

Well I totally agree. saying you "did" serpentine without clarifyi ng the gear was preplaced or in place and you only did pitch 2 is lame, but I may add these claimants generally didn't fall off the last moves and say they did it.
Dave J
8-Mar-2017
4:47:21 PM
On 8/03/2017 ima.seriousyoungliza wrote:

>On 8/03/2017 Dave J wrote:
>>I always assumed ...

>RIIIIIGHT..........lets meet Kim half way on that one eh ...benefit of the doubt ....

OK ...Fair call...lets just say kim chipped one and someone else did the other.

And I agree with ODH its generally considered to be benchmark 29. Punks when it was done was a full 3 grades harder...thats quite a step.

>>Falling off the slab is not that uncommon. I fell off there a couple of times before I got up it.
>
>OK...please sir....what grade ,IS the slab on SYL...
I thought SYL finished at the bolt below the slab. And LOTR was the extension that pushed on through to the anchors. The lat moves are maybe 24ish....but theres never a move on it that you woudlt find on a 26. Its just very sustained (particularly for arapiles) You fall off easier moves up hogh because you're tired from what you've already done.
One Day Hero
8-Mar-2017
4:54:13 PM
Yeah, we're all completely suckered. You're a master troll, Hexy.

So, talking about standout climbers (who may have sported legacy-damaging personality quirks)...what about Garth Miller?

Carrigan's best efforts had been eclipsed by other Australian climbers within a decade. It's going on twenty years now since Miller blasted out his epic run of onsighting and fast ticks of "open" projects. Has any other Aussie clearly outclimbed him?

ima.seriousyoungliza
8-Mar-2017
4:54:58 PM
>>>I thought SYL finished at the bolt below the slab.

WOOOOOOOHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

KIM !!!!!!!! U DID CLIMB SERIOUS YOUNG LIZARDS !!!!!!!

: D

HAPPY DAZE !!!!!!


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There are 426 messages in this topic.

 

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