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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 7 of 22. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 140 | 141 to 160 | 161 to 180 | 181 to 200 | 201 to 220 | 221 to 240 | 241 to 260 | 261 to 280 | 281 to 300 | 301 to 320 | 321 to 340 | 341 to 360 | 361 to 380 | 381 to 400 | 401 to 420 | 421 to 426
Author
Kim Carrigan BOOK
ima.seriousyoungliza
14-Feb-2016
4:35:23 PM
.Image and video hosting by TinyPic


.........................................

'
In the middle of THE CARRIGAN YEARS....in 1979 ... the next visit of significance by overseas climbers happened.........in 1975 , Henry Barber's visit had heralded both the endi of the Old Wave ( Baxter et al ) ...and the start of the New Wave ( Kim Carrigan et al ) .....and in 1985 , Wolfgang Gullich's visit had heralded the early stages of the world-wide Ultra Wave ...which pretty much peaked with Wolfy's first ascent of Action Direct ( 9a ...35ish) ... in 1991 ...the same year that the Soviet Union fell apart .....These two events ... Wolfys climb and the end of Soviet Communism must have had quite an effect on Kim's view of rock climbing and his view of the new Europe in which he was based ...I am sure these two events would have clarified in Kim's mind that The Carrigan Years were indeed between 1975 and 1985...


The Soronsen-Allen visit consolidated what was going on in Australia .
...and blew a few minds along the way ...
>>>. Sorenson's unroped on-sight solo of the ceiling route Kachoong Left Hand (22) really slackened local jaws...


.Baxter & Friend explain :
.............................................

**Australia (1979) Tobin Sorenson and John Allen
**
Mt Arapiles

The remarkable development of Australia's hardest area continues without respite. Again Kim Carrigan has been the dominant activist. He put up Australia's first two grade 27s when he freed the old aid problems Yesterday and Denim (pitch one) in quick succession. Both are sustained and extremely overhanging crack problems. Yesterday has not been repeated in its free state but visiting American climber Tobin Sorenson repeated Denim after a number of attempts and said it was 'hard' (American 5 .12). (He said that some, only, of Australia's 26s equal American 5.12 and all 27s would be 5.12 in the U.S.A.)

Carrigan freed the four-meter ceiling on Tiger Wall, Fox on a Hot Thin Roof, after five days and graded it 28. This grade did not last long, however, as Sorenson repeated it with relative ease and regarded it 27. John Allen (UK) led the third free ascent. A feature of the first free ascent of this climb was the pre-placing of some protection from aid.

Another of Carrigan's big efforts was his new climb on Bluff Major, Anxiety Neurosis (26) which basically follows an uncompleted bolt and rurp route. The first pitch is an extremely overhung traverse leading to a fearsome, undercut arete (26). It succumbed only after a number of days and many falls. The second pitch, up a blank arete, is little easier and also put Carrigan and his partner, Warwick Baird, to considerable trouble. Sorenson led the second ascent and Allen led the third ascent (first pitch only).

On Declaration Crag, Carrigan and Tony Dignam put up the face problem Look Sharp (23) with some pre-placed protection. Carrigan's first free ascent of Orestes (pitch one) (24) in The Atridae surprised most climbers because of the line's apparent looseness. However the line is one of the best at Arapiles and has already had a couple of repeats. This route received some attention from abseil prior to the first free ascent. In the same vicinity Kevin Lindorff and Dignam worked on the face left of Reunion to produce the rather bold Lois Lane (23) on which Peter Lindorff and Matt Dunstan followed. Dignam and Geoff Little did a similar route left of Frenzy - Iron Void (24). Below this, on the D Minor Pinnacle, Carrigan and Chris Peisker worked on the old aid problem The Philosopher (25) until it became a very thin free route. Lindorff and Geoff Little put up a minor new route, Fail Safe (25).

On the left side of Central Gully, Carrigan, Rod Young and John Smoothy climbed Cruel Canine (23) on the unpromising face right of Puppy Love.

The other side of Central Gully yielded a number of hard routes to Carrigan. Two of the best are Devoid (23), done with Tony Marion, and Vacancy (23), with Smoothy, on the wall right of Mari. Both were wire brushed prior to the ascent and require many small wires for protection.

Also in this general area Carrigan put up the 'nasty' Tres Hard (25) and an extremely overhanging crack problem. Dyslexia (25), with Peisker. Further right the same team found No Standing (24) on the steep face left of Stillborn and Carrigan led the brilliant face climb Morfyne (24) on which he was seconded bY Glenn Tempest, Louise Shepherd, Eddie Ozols and, rumour has it, Uncle Tom Cobbley!

On the Pharos there were two outstanding efforts: Kevin Lindorff led the very bold and sparsely protected Delirium Tremors (24) up the imposing southern face of the pinnacle, the first to get up this section of the wall, and Carrigan and Lindorff did the first free ascent of the dramatically exposed roof of Aftermath (25).

In the Pharos Gully there were more hard new climbs of mixed quality including Pattern Juggler (23) by Rod Young and K. Oaten, Snow Blind (23) by Coral Bowman and Peisker and Haphazard (23) by Carrigan, Dignam and Smoothy.

On Kitten Wall there were some major efforts. Carrigan finally freed Cat Cracker (26) after innumerable plummets from the hard boulder-problem crux and, with Mark Moorhead, put up the steep face climb Indoctrination (24) on which'Friends' are essential for some protection.

However the plum was undoubtedly Sorenson and Allen's beautiful and spectacular new route up the wall (23) and over the fifteen foot ceiling (25) right of Stranger's Eliminate. Tjuringa Wall, as they called it, was done in the best style and is one of the finest new routes at Mt. Arapiles in recent times.

In the Northern Group, Carrigan climbed a seam over the bulge right of Kachoong to give In Phase (24). Again 'Friends' were considered indispensible for protection. Sorenson's unroped on-sight solo of the ceiling route Kachoong Left Hand (22) really slackened local jaws. Another first was his similar solo of Christian Crack (2O). Finally, Allen and Sorenson, this time with the rope on, climbed a new ceiling which certain pundits considered unlikely' - Fiddler on the Roof (25).

Sorenson and Allen's most notable repeats not referred to above were the fourth and fifth ascents of the very strenuous testpiece Procol Harum (26) and the third and fourth ascents of Peisker's uncompleted (one pitch, only, so far) new route No Exit (26) in Central Gully.

The Grampians

Whilst Mt. Arapiles has had it all in quantity and difficulty, some of the best new routes have been done in the Grampians. The hardest is Life (24) on the face left of Decree Nisi at Black Ian's Rocks by Carrigan and Neil Parker (NZ). A bolt runner was placed by abseil. Also in the north, at Mt. Difficult, Rick White and Chris Baxter did Coup de Grace (21) one of the most overhanging crack climbs in the State, and an outstanding line. On Sundial Peak, Kevin Lindorff and Peter Jacobs climbed the 'elegant' Lion-Hearted (2O) 15ft right of Caucus Race.

In the South Jim Nelson and Dick Curtis climbed a prominent line on The Cheesecake at Mt. Abrupt - Shadow Road (2O). A point of aid used by the leader was eliminated by the second. Mick Law, Baxter and Mike Stone did the first climb on Ferret Hill - Tipsy (22), a beautiful corner and roof climb of two pitches. Nearby on The Promontory, another new outcrop, Hugh Foxcroft, Ed Neve and Nick Reeves did a sustained line which they called Restless (2O). Just to the north, on Mt. Fox, Baxter, Stone and Dave Gairns climbed the outstanding and unlikely wall between Foxfire and Leaner to give Twentieth Century Fox (2O) after first placing protection bolts.

Mt. Buffalo

Kevin Lindorff and Joe Friend reduced the aid on the She/Ozymandias Integral (22,M1) to one pendulum. This is one of the most spectacular routes on the north wall of the gorge. To the left of this Lindorff and Tempest did a remarkable almost free ascent of Lord of the Flies (23,M1) with only two aid points, to get off the ground, and four long pitches of 20 or harder.

Rest of Victoria

At Wilson's Promontory Tempest freed Cachalot (22), with Andrew Martin.

South Australia

Kim Carrigan recently visited Moonarie in the Flinders Ranges and, predictably, that area's number of hard routes underwent a quantum increase. One of the best was his first free ascent, with Louise Shepherd, of Robbing Hood (24) in the Great Wall area.

Other aid eliminations by Carrigan included Trojan (24), an overhanging crack and the removal of the single aid point from Medici (22). On the latter climb, a problem that has defeated a number of strong attempts, he was seconded by Shepherd and Tony Dignam. He put up one new climb, Self Destruct (24), which is said to involve a 3Oft ceiling, and did a new variant on Birdbrain (23). Dignam seconded the latter. Earlier, John Smart did the State's first grade 24 when he freed Grand Larceny on the same cliff; a proud roof 3OOft above the ground.

Elsewhere in South Australia Eddie Ozols put up Rubber Ducky (21) (for all you CB radio fans out there) on the sea cliff at Victor Harbour.

Oueensland

The chalk dust has fina!!y settled . after Tobin Sorenson's (U.S.A.) and John Allen's (U.K.) momentous visit. They raised grades in that State a couple of notches to bring them up to southern levels. Significantly Carrigan has already repeated all their hardest leads, confirming their difficulty with a dramatic series of plummets.

Allen and Sorenson's hardest route was Catcher in the Rye (27) on Frog Buttress which may be the most technical climbing in Australia but which required 'English tactics' to arrange the protection on both ascents to date. Sorenson took the lead from Allen to free a pair of aided climbs Barbwire Canoe (26) and Green Plastic Comb (26). These ascents have really impressed the locals. The former has scarcely no climbing below grade 22 in its 140ft. The latter is very strenuous and is protected by tiny wires. Sorenson took a series of dramatic, wire-snapping falls on both these demanding leads.

Elsewhere on Frog Buttress they put up The Guns of Navarone (24), a sought-after line right of Odin which incorporates one of this area's few ceilings. Tantrum (25) was an aid elimination with a boulder-problem start by the same pair whereas their Crack in the Pavement (23) was a new route.

Some Australians have also contributed to this cliff. Before he went to the U.S.A. Chris Peisker freed Worrying Heights (24), a sustained corner. Carrigan, seconded by Kevin Lindorff, got the only currently feasible aid elimination left by Sorenson and Allen (who had not had time to attempt it) - Voices in the Sky (26), and found a new climb Go- Between (23), seconded by 'barefoot boy' Fred From, which is something of a fiercely protected lead. Finally, a Oueenslander got in on the act when Robert Staszewski hit form and freed the strenuous finger crack of Carrion Comfort (25), which he wants to rename Forever Young, and found Delilah (23).

On Mt. Maroon, Sorenson and Allen freed the notorious Nympho Roof (24) which is a dangerously unprotected face leading to a hard undercling traverse. On a granite outcrop at Mt. Greville they did a rather obscure ceiling problem (24) which they doubt will be refound!

Correspondents: Baxter, Friend.

..............................................................
Andy P
14-Feb-2016
8:55:32 PM
Hey, ima,,,,,
I'll buy one please... but... don't want to read it all here first.
Kim was inspirational to many of 'my gen' - along with Ron Fawcett, Wolfgang and John Bachar.
Did a few routes en France with Kim in the eighties ,,, nice bloke.
Look forward to the book.
Cheers,
Andy P.
ima.seriousyoungliza
14-Feb-2016
10:00:07 PM
On 14/02/2016 Andy P wrote:
>Hey, ima,,,,,
>I'll buy one please... but... don't want to read it all here first.
>Kim was inspirational to many of 'my gen' - along with Ron Fawcett, Wolfgang
>and John Bachar.
>Did a few routes en France with Kim in the eighties ,,, nice bloke.
>Look forward to the book.
>Cheers,
>Andy P.

...you really know how to make a serious young lizard feel all warm and fuzzy ...

..this image of you will always be etched into my brain ....I sometimes wonder wether Kim was capable of such contortions ...and hence the second ascent of Punks might have been his .... but the thing with the rings consumed him to distraction ...say-la-vee...

Image and video hosting by TinyPic

CHEERS TO YOU , ANDY !!!

: )

ima.seriousyoungliza
5-Mar-2016
3:19:33 PM
...................................

>>>Oueensland

>>>Significantly Carrigan has already repeated all their hardest leads, confirming their difficulty with a dramatic series of plummets.

>>>Carrigan, seconded by Kevin Lindorff, got the only currently feasible aid elimination left by Sorenson and Allen (who had not had time to attempt it) - Voices in the Sky (26), and found a new climb Go- Between (23), seconded by 'barefoot boy' Fred From, which is something of a fiercely protected lead.

...................................................................................
HERE IS KIM'S ' FOOT PRINTS ' @ FROG BUTTRESS
...................................................................................

'...renowned for his competitive nature and fanatical training ethic ... he is responsible for some of the most difficult and brilliant lines at Frog ...'


KEEP LEFT 24 ( ‘ brutal climbing sustained and difficult ’)

FUTURE TENSE 26 *** ( ‘desperate thin climbing featuring one hell of a sting in the tail ! ‘)

THE LORD’S PRAYER 27/28*** ( ‘incredibly thin edging to the point of requiring levitation abilities ‘ )

IRKY PERKY 26 ( ‘ brutal contrived hard to protect unpleasant ...’)

SELF EXPRESSION 26 ** ( ‘ trully insane climbing...an awesome and inspiring effort by Kim ‘ )

PARANOIA 25 ** ( ‘ brutal but amazing climbing ‘ )

STAND IN LINE 27 * ( ‘ up the desperately thin corner on imaginery holds using scary and spacious protection ‘ )

HANDY ANDY 26 * ( ‘ bridge up the completely blank corner pretending there are holds ... not for the faint hearted ‘ )

BROWN CORDOUROY TROUSERS 28 **** ( ‘ on the wish list for many Frog-climbing gods ! ......controversy centred around the fact that a hold had mysteriously appeared ... and ... it had not been there the previous year when Warick Baird had been seiging it ‘ )

https://vimeo.com/136182408


WILD ONE 24 ** ( ‘ diabolical tendon pulverising ‘ )

OLD GUARD 22 ** ( ‘ brilliant climbing ‘ )

VOICES IN THE SKY 25 *** ( ‘ fantastic climbing and superb positions ‘ )

GO BETWEEN 23 * ( “ desperate classy and unrelenting ‘ )

OUT ON A LIMB 21 ** ( ‘ excellent and absorbing ‘ )

SEPARATOR DIRECT START 25 [SKULL] ( ‘ levitate up the arête using friction , glue and anything else ‘ )

THE ANTI-FROM DIRECT 24 [ SKULL ] ( ‘ more scary than 15 horror films rolled into one ...extremely bold and technically brilliant climbing by Kim ‘ )

...and Kim held the rope for Java on :
IMPULSE 24 *** ( ‘ possibly the best climb at Frog ‘ )


widewetandslippery
6-Mar-2016
7:21:49 AM
Slightly off topic but in the interest of history does anyone know where Hangman at Bombo fits as an early 27?
ima.seriousyoungliza
6-Mar-2016
12:27:03 PM
>>Slightly off topic but in the interest of history does anyone know where Hangman at Bombo fits as an early 27?

...HUH ? ...WHAAA ? ....aaaawwwwwwrrrriiiiiight ...


..................................................................
skegly
12/06/2013
11:58:07 PM

>On 12/06/2013 grantoss wrote:
>>>I might be tripping but I think somebody once told me that OZ's first 27
>>>resides there.... WW&S can probbaly verify

>Yep hangman the first. 27 in nsw. Don't know if first in aust.
.............................................................

mikllaw
12/06/2013
1:35:07 PM

> I loved the climbing there, some great thin cracks but mostly crazy slick bridging. The they built a shitfarm at the base of the highest area...
.................................................................





On 12/06/2013 nmonteith wrote:
>Surely this excites someone?
....................................................

Claw should know who did the 27 and what year ...

The first 27 in Aus belongs to Kim and Araps ... it can be found somewhere in the mix of

Fox
Denim
Yesterday
Picking Winners


>Surely this excites someone?
tps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I2BolDHTExE

http://www.smh.com.au/articles/2005/12/06/1133829572186.html
>>>He died of staph infection in the end...

they should have been using BK's products at the hospital
ima.seriousyoungliza
6-Mar-2016
1:19:27 PM
.
...KIM & THE PINK FRILLY SHIRT ...


survival [Supertopo]
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Sep 1, 2015 - 08:30am PT

FOR THE RECORD!! It was 35 years ago, so I make ZERO claims to any and all accuracy of recall. I just don't have one of those photographic memories for routes, moves, and pro that some guys claim to have. And I don't really care. What sticks with me is the vibe of the time and where my mind was when climbing with a person. That's a more important reflection to me anyway. I don't think I've ever even seen a topo of the thing!!

Yes, it had a pretty fierce reputation for a route that hadn't been climbed much. I think Kim even told me that we did the 4th/5th ascent from the scarce information he got. I have no way of knowing whether that's true or not. There sure wasn't that much evidence on it!!

Anyway, Kim had been surfing around and hadn't found anyone to do it with him. Someone told him that the kid from Oregon was a pretty hot face climber. (I was 19 at the time) I couldn't crank like some guys, but I did have excellent feet, and a good head for being out well beyond pro.

So he asked me, and I agreed. I wanted to climb with Carrigan more than I wanted to face those pitches, so my good judgement was overcome!

The black diorite that makes up a large part of the route is beautiful, and really did take the shape of a rose in my mind, so I will always think of it as Black Rose, no matter the name confusion. This was my first and only climb on that apron, so I was highly impressed!

Anyway, as I recall there are 5 pitches, and we set it up so he would lead the crux. So he led pitches 1,3 and 5, and I led 2 and 4. That way I could at least say we swung leads and keep my meager honor in tact.

Kim led off solidly and seemed to have no trouble on the first. Plus, he was good at talking up my climbing and how I was hiking along, so this was good for my head.

I remember being as focused as I'd ever been for this entire route. Laser like focus, because I wanted to give us the best possible chance at a clean ascent, and because I wanted to climb well in front of Carrigan, who already had about as fierce of a reputation as the climb.

I remember some pretty steep climbing for Middle, but the climbing was amazing. Some very ballet like moves, some high steps with all my weight on one foot praying that the edge I was reaching for would be decent. It was very heads up, focus was needed. There were serious consequences if you came off in the wrong place, but this isn't unusual for Middle Cathedral face climbing.

Fortunately my composure held, and my confidence grew, even as my stamina waned higher up. It seems I always managed to find a nut placement, a good hold, or a little shake out stance just when I needed it most. I faced that inner demon "Please God, don't let me come off here..." a number of times. I climbed up and down many times to work a little section out.

Kim was solid, smooth and business like. I could always tell where it got hard or heady because of where he slowed down! I was sure impressed with his ability, his confidence and his strength. He had a good sense of humor too! I remember having a lot more fun around him one on one, than when he had a posse of admirers around him. He seemed to change at those times, to me. I have one painful example that I won't bring up here.

The crux was a bulge that might have been the steepest thing on the whole route. I remember Kim working the moves and cursing, but he didn't come off! I studied every move he made so I could copy them to the best of my ability when I got there! I managed it clean as well, although I came as close as I could possibly be to coming off, without actually coming off.

I think that Kim didn't have the habit of welding nuts with hard downward jerks like some of my old partners. A stuck nut can cost you a hang on the rope quite easily, even on easy ground, so I remember being impressed and very happy that his gear came out smoothly on hard, sketchy climbing.

So here's the part of the climb that will never leave my mind. For anyone who has never climbed on that North apron of Middle Cathedral, it can get damn cold over there. I was armed with a t-shirt, period.... We also had little water and food, and dehydration and loss of calories can also cause you to have trouble keeping warm. So by the time Kim was leading that last pitch, the breeze came up, and the exertion and fear sweats were now costing me dearly. Please take a light jacket if you're ever gonna be over there in the shade.

So as we began the descent Kim loaned me this gawd awful pink frilly shirt that he had brought. I mean Paul Revere and The Raiders frilly. Frills at the collar, frills down the front, frills at the cuffs...the horror!! But I was also damn glad to have it.

As we rappelled, someone came out of the trees. It was Louise, Kim's beautiful girlfriend!! She may have even had another gal with her. I was caught, in the hall of shame, with this heinous shirt on. They all got a good tease out of the situation, but I was cold, and wasn't about to take the damnable thing off.....

ima.seriousyoungliza
6-Mar-2016
1:36:31 PM
>>>As we rappelled, someone came out of the trees. It was Louise, Kim's beautiful girlfriend!


Tarbuster[Supertopo]
climber
right here, right now Sep 1, 2015 - 07:14pm PT

Bruce,

I agree. If this thread had come up in 2007 we would have rocked it with input from lots more people, whether or not they had roped up with Kim Carrigan.

You're right about Kim having climbed with more of us. On the other hand, until you posted up, I couldn't name anybody else from the states who I knew actually climbed with him!

Dan Michael, a well-seasoned Colorado climber, introduced me to Kim and knew more about his exploits. Through Dan I learned that Kim had done some stout FFAs at Devils Tower for instance. Dan visited Australia. He had a crush on Louise Shepherd.

Louise had appeared in Camp 4. I saw her in tight lounge pants, poised on a pair of five inch heels. No kidding. What a dish! She was just standing there in the powdered dirt, slowly darting her head about like an exotic bird ... parting a sea of shirtless men.

The day Dan was mourning his rebuff from Louise, I saw him out on the sands down in Joshua Tree, wandering between the crags. His chest and shoulders were all pumped up … like from battle. He was on an offbeat path in his climbing togs, wandering solo. No pack. Shoes in hand. His ponytail was tight. He strutted around like the c--k-of-the-walk.

I busted him cold. "Okay man, tell me what you did. I can see the jolt in your eyes. What’s her name and where you been? You're all busted up over a girl right?"

Dan had just free soloed Figures on a Landscape out at the Astrodomes and her name was Louise. Two pitches of finger stinging vertical slab. It goes past a hanging belay! I know that was a first. I bet that's also never been free soloed by anyone since. I hope he felt better about Ms. Shepherd, but I doubt it. ...



......................................



ima.seriousyoungliza
6-Mar-2016
5:08:07 PM
.
imaseriousyounglizar
12/08/2015
7:15:13 PM

>>>A few bits and pieces to throw into the R&D pot ...

...............................................................................................

http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/free-wheel-the-kurt-albert-profile?page=1

>>> The Australian star Kim Carrigan, who had done the fastest ascent so far, in just three days

'...On his first trip to Germany, having driven overnight crushed in the back of Güllich’s Golf, Moffatt went straight out and climbed Albert’s masterpiece Sautanz (5.12c), which had been the hardest route in Germany in 1981. The Australian star Kim Carrigan, who had done the fastest ascent so far, in just three days, was also staying at Albert and Güllich’s and came along to belay. Despite the lack of sleep and long journey, Moffatt fought his way to the top first go. Then he did the same to John Bachar’s newer testpiece Chasin’ the Trane (5.12d) and capped that with an onsight repeat of Güllich’s Heisse Finger (5.12d). Pretty soon he had added his own Frankenjura super route, at a grade harder—The Face, the first 8a (5.13b) in Germany...'

.........................................................................................

http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1985_files/AJ%201985%20153-160%20Webster%20America.pdf

'...In the last few years seve~al ofthe most
arduous crack climbs in America have been established on the striking profile of
Devil's Tower in the remote NE corner ofWyoming. Routes like Accident Victim
(5.11 + ) by Australian Kim Carrigan,..'

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Devils_Tower
.
.......................................................................................

A history of free climbing in America : wizards of rock, Pat Ament

http://www.climbandmore.com/climbing,151,0,1,books.html

'...1981...Randy Leavitt, Kim Carrigan, Russ Raffa, Hugh Herr, Steve Hong, Mark Wilford, John Bachar, and others rock wizards...'

......................................................................................

http://loganclimbsrocks.blogspot.com.au/2014/09/paradise-found.html

'...The Frankenjura is a place I had always wanted to visit. It is a historic location with classic lines developed by the old masters of the sport. (Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Gullich, Jerry Moffat, John Bachar, Kim Carrigan etc.). ...'

...................................................................................
.


Andy P
6-Mar-2016
5:18:41 PM
Yep, that was our Jerry. What a legend.
AP.
ima.seriousyoungliza
6-Mar-2016
5:28:35 PM
Jerry & AP ...

https://books.google.com.au/books?id=I2uDBwAAQBAJ&pg=PT155&lpg=PT155&dq=andy+pollitt+jerry+moffatt&source=bl&

ots=IGdJ1zIat6&sig=wZF_c1TFm6VHCRqHNWLE59U8axw&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKE

wjW4ZPRtqvLAhWKlJQKHQQdDhIQ6AEIRjAM#v=onepage&q=andy%20pollitt%20jerry%20moffatt&f=false
ima.seriousyoungliza
6-Mar-2016
6:00:20 PM
On 12/08/2015 imaseriousyounglizar wrote:
>Im hoping that for the good of aus climbing , Claw can let go of his vested
>interest in maintaining the number one myth that floats around ... that
>Kim Carrigan was a bumbly who only climbed hard cos he trained a lot ...
>and that Claw was the genius who could get off the couch and climb grade
>45 ....solo ....at night .................Claw .... like you say in ur
>book ... at one stage Kim WAS the best climber in the world ...well now
>its time to find out how , why , when and who with .....

.......................................

http://www.chockstone.org/Interviews/GTempest.htm

'...Grades would never have increased without competition. Its a natural human trait. Climbers at the highest levels are all competitive. If they say any different then they are either lying or are oblivious to it. In the late 1970s and early 1980s there was heaps of competition. We really had a feeling that we were pushing the standards of the day and pulling in some of the best new climbs in the country. Arapiles and the Grampians had suddenly entered the world stage and we were actors finally in the spotlight. I always had the highest regard for Kevin Lindorff. Still do. We had a sense of competition but at the time we knew that as a team we performed better than as individuals. We complemented each other perfectly and of course put up some classic routes during the time we climbed together. The rivalry was especially dramatic between guys like Mike Law and Kim Carrigan. Kim set himself up on a pedestal surrounded by his many loyal subjects. Kim was the first climber to seriously market himself to the masses. Claw on the other hand went underground and turned into the lizard king of anarchy. History records that Kim went on to push the grades ever higher but few people that knew them both would deny that Claw was in fact the climbing genius. Kim just worked harder at it....'

Trumpet...mate...the reality is ... Claw just works harder at telling the world that Claw was in fact the genius ...

...........................................
WHOOOPS !!! ...

User Location Joined # Posts Last Posted Last Logon
barney800 Victoria, Australia 31/10/2011 62 13/12/2015 6/03/2016
Torin_123 Victoria, Australia 22/11/2015 5 6/03/2016 6/03/2016
mikllaw Victoria, Australia 14/01/2010 1643 4/03/2016 6/03/2016
TimP Castlemaine 28/09/2013 187 4/03/2016 6/03/2016
whippet Mt Victoria & Dargan , Blue Mtns 28/04/2015 1 28/04/2015 6/03/2016
ajfclark Horsham, Victoria 18/01/2008 5397 5/03/2016 6/03/2016
ima.seriousyoungliza Victoria, Australia 5/09/2015 50 6/03/2016 6/03/2016


I GOTTA GO NOW !!! ... CLAWS ON LINE .....

GAAAARRRRHHHH !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Neverending Scream from AnimateIt.net


Bizarre Baby from AnimateIt.net Psychedelic Colors from AnimateIt.net

..................... Erasing the World from AnimateIt.net
.......................................... Sleeping Underwater from AnimateIt.net
ima.seriousyoungliza
10-Apr-2016
6:27:06 PM
HELLO AGAIN !!!!

R&D on The Carrigan Years is starting to splinter a bit

http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=DisplayTopic&ForumID=1&MessageID=119448&Replies=131&PagePos=0&Sort=&MsgPagePos=-1#NewPost

http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=DisplayTopic&ForumID=1&MessageID=128666&Replies=5&PagePos=0&Sort=#NewPost

So I will stay concentrate on ammassing said R & D here ...

BUT FIRSTLY Id like to thank LeeC for putting the WOW factor into the Totem Pole again ...by free climbing IN ONE PITCH the line that Kim and Lew made the second aided ascent of in 1974

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'... You also tried to onsight the Ewbank Route on the Tote in a single pitch, how did you go?
Great! I fell off but it was so great to have a lash! Climbing onsight on traditional (or mixed in the case of the Ewbank Route) routes is one of the great adventures in climbing. The route was originally freed in three pitches at 25, 26 and 27. The belays had historical significance as they were used on the first ascent of the Totem Pole by John Ewbank and Allen Keller Back in 1968. The belays are also pretty logical from a free climbing perspective as they are good stances or rests. Doing it in one pitch, though, definitely adds an aesthetic element to the free experience and makes the route a better journey! After the fall I continued to the top and Andrea followed and cleaned it. We then came back the next day and went from the bottom again and this time I didn’t fall off, Andrea followed it again and then decided she wanted to lead it too. We returned a couple more days and she managed to send it too....' (VL 2016)



But I totally agree with Imaclawfan that The Free Route 25 on the other side of the tote is now just another varient and the recently placed bolts should be chopped !!!

http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=Display&ForumID=1&MessageID=126004

THE FREE ROUTE 25 & THE FREED ROUTE 27 IS WHEREITSAT !!!

LETS RESTORE THE TOTEM POLE TO A WORLD CLASS DESTINATION AND IDEAL ....
ima.seriousyoungliza
10-Apr-2016
6:51:14 PM
OK...I re-started this thread

http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=DisplayTopic&ForumID=1&MessageID=119448&Replies=131&PagePos=0&Sort=&MsgPagePos=-1#NewPost

to get a broad view of Kims significance thru The Carrigan Years ....and also to see where things went after handing his crown to Wolfy in 1985 ....and to show that grade 28 isnt such a big deal now ...now that ' we ' have a grade 38 ...

.......................................


GRADE 38.......9b+ ..........LA DURA DURA .........2013....Ondra & Sharma....[ Australia...NOT YET ]

GRADE 37......9b...........CHILAM BALAM ...2003.......Bernabè Fernandez,....[ Australia...NOT YET ]

GRADE 36......9a+.........OPEN AIR .......1995........Alex Huber......[ Australia...NOT YET ]

GRADE 35 ......9a ..........ACTION DIRECT......1991........Wolfgang Gullich.......[ Australia 2013 ....Alex Megos....RETIRED EXTREMELY DANGEROUS ]

GRADE 34......8c+............HUBBLE.........1990.......Ben Moon......[ Austalia 2004...Chris Webb....WHITE LADDER ]

GRADE 33......8c............WALL STREET.......1987......Wolfgang Gullich......[ Autralia 1999 ..Garth Miller ...GREY AREA ]...

GRADE 32……8b+…….PUNKS IN THE GYM…...1985…...Scheel / Gullich / Moffat
https://climbingsimon.wordpress.com/2015/05/05/punks-in-the-gym/



GRADE 31……..SERIOUS YOUNG LIZARDS aka LORD OF THE RINGS…1981 -1986…Kim Carrigan & Stefan Glowaz

GRADE 30…….ETHIOPIA……1984…Kim Carrigan

GRADE 29 ……..MASADA ….1984…Kim Carrigan... & Carrigan-sequence on INDIA (1982)…..Kim Carrigan

GRADE 28……COBWEBS….1981….Mark Moorhead

GRADE 27…...DENIM & YESTERDAY….1979….Kim Carrigan

GRADE 26…….PROCUL HAREM…..1978….Kim Carrigan

GRADE 25…….OSTLER…...1978…Chris Pieksta…

GRADE 24…...COUNTRY ROAD….1976…Claw & Taylor….

GRADE 23 …..ALBATROSS…1974…Ian Lewis…..

GRADE 22......VALLHALLA 22M2 .....1972......Rick White

GRADE 21......JANICEPTS...21 MO…1966 ... .Ewbank

GRADE 20........PROBABLY EWBANK.....

GRADE 19 .......ZACHERIUS 19,M1 ..........1964....Ewbank

GRADE 18……..THE ETERNITY aka YORKSHIRE CRACK .....1965.........Ewbank

GRADE 17…… NW FACE FEDERATION PEAK ….1961.....Ohalleran etel…..& .LIEBEN @ Warrumbungles…..1962.....Bryden Allen

.......................................
ima.seriousyoungliza
10-Apr-2016
7:01:30 PM
OK ....1981 and 1982 were big years for GRADE 28 in Australia

Moorhead climbed Cobwebs & Down To Zero in 1981

'...Moorhead’s magnum opus on rock was a route called Cobwebs, which he casually undergraded 26. Today it’s given a 28, although visiting Euros often suggest 29. When he established the climb in 1981, it would have ranked among the top hardest in the world. Of course, in the dusty shade of the Pines campground, where many climbers of the day resided at some point or another, apparently there wasn’t much fanfare about it. Still, when he died, it was a shock to the tight-knit climbing community to lose such a well-liked and talented friend. Indeed, his peers still lament “what-could-have-been”....'

http://chelseabrunckhorst.com/2015/09/17/mythic-figure-mark-moorhead/

In 1982 Kim freed both Brown Courdroy Trousers and Ogive at 28

Claw got up Slime Time (26 ..then 28 yeeeaaaarrrrssss later )

Claw added Sopin Sleazin the next year (25 ...then 28 yeeeeaaaarrrrsssss later )

Ya gotta understand ... Claw didnt go O/S until 1983 ...so he didnt really understand why he was ' enraging ' Kim ....Kim was an INTERNATIONAL climber who was trying to get Araps onto the world stage ...

Kim in Climbing #93 :

'...Carrigan is one of a number of climbers, such as Jerry Moffatt and Wolfgang Gullich, who spends much of his time traveling to other countries to try the hardest routes there. He feels that travel is important for a climber. “For me, it’s a chance to meet people who have similar interests and philosophies about life. I enjoy making new friends by traveling. If you travel, you get to see what’s happening everywhere in the world. You don’t get this sort of narrow, parochial view of what climbing’s about.”...'



NOW....IF MARK MOORHEAD AND MAKALU IS TOO SENSATIVE FOR YOU THEN DO NOT READ THE REST OF THIS POST

Mark climbed a lot with Jon Muir

http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=DisplayTopic&ForumID=1&MessageID=128666&Replies=5&PagePos=0&Sort=#NewPost

and for good reason

( See Turkeys on ice Himalayan Dreaming ) ( link wont work here )

They were good mates who did a lot of alpine climbing together....Kim simply didn't ' get ' alpine climbing and stayed well clear of it during the Carrigan Years apart from Summer time big routes on Frenchmans Cap ( Great flake 22 with Everlyn Lees and DeGaules Nose 23 with Mark Moorhead )( Dave j did 2nd ascent and was most impressed !!! )

NOW ....WHAT EXACTLY DID HAPPEN ON MAKALU ...why didnt Mark return to Araps to beat Kim in the race to be the first Australian to climb into the GRADE 30s ?

'...The next year, From and Hillary, this time joined by Denz and Moorhead, were back for another attempt on a massive Himalayan peak. Makalu, 8481 m high, is only marginally lower than Lhotse and their route, the West Ridge, is a much more aesthetic line of ascent than their route on Lhotse. Viewed from the upper Barun Plateau, the West Ridge of Makalu rises in a single graceful arc towards the summit. It is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful lines in the Himalaya and what makes it doubly attractive is that it leads to the top of one of the world’s most massive peaks.

The alluring route had been climbed twice before—by the French in 1971 and the Americans in 1980—but both were large teams that essentially sieged the mountain. Like the ITP had done on Changabang, the small Australian–New Zealand team on Makalu would attempt the route in alpine style—in essence, a first ascent of a classic route in the new, lightweight style.

Despite the persistence of monsoonal cloud in early September, the quartet pushed the route out from camp one at the edge of permanent snow along a scary, knife-edged ridge to camp two, a roomy crevasse that provided almost palatial trappings at 6800 m. Above that point, the climbing became even more difficult, with sections named the ‘Terrible Traverse’ and ‘Little Eiger face’.[25]

Progress was slowed but remained steady. Camp three was an ice cave, beyond which the ridge steepened even further and ice and snow-covered rock made the climbing even more difficult. After a day of hard work above camp three, in which the route was established to 7300 m, a powder-snow avalanche swept across the descending climbers’ path. From was lucky to escape, but Denz was caught in the slide and carried to his death.

It was a terrible blow to the small, closely knit team. The scheduled rest at base camp before pushing higher turned into a sad period of mourning and reflection. The remaining three decided to continue with the expedition and put all their effort into getting to the top of Makalu.

It seemed at first as though their determination would pay off. They moved back up the ridge and climbed past their previous high point and up to more than 7600 m. They had surpassed most of the technical difficulties and had a good run from there to the summit. ‘It had seemed to us more a question of how many would reach the top,’ Hillary said, ‘success was almost taken for granted.’[26] Virtually nothing, however, can be taken for granted in the Himalaya.

They decided to descend once more to base camp for another rest before finally going for the summit. On the way back down the ridge, Moorhead fell and was killed. Two tragedies in just a fortnight were too much for the stunned From and Hillary to overcome. Not only had the small team been cut in half, the surviving pair had lost two companions. They had little choice but to abandon the climb, even though success seemed imminent, and return to Australia...'

..........................................

'...Mark Moorhead fell descending after a fine day’s advance — as they all do — at a little bit of fixed rope around a buttress that he obviously didn’t think was worth clipping. Fred saw him go, and followed, at considerable personal risk, all the way down the fall line to his body on the glacier far below. I guess he hoped he might find him alive, but gradually realised he wouldn’t. Then all the way back up to camp, in the dark. Mark was a good friend....'

http://gergs.net/2014/09/fred/

RIP MARK MOORHEAD...

...................................................

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......5th HIGHEST MOUNTAIN IN THE WORLD ...........MAKALU......Mark's expedition was attempting the third ascent of one of the most beautiful lines in the Himalayas ... the West Ridge / Pillar ....( directly below the summit )...

ima.seriousyoungliza
10-Apr-2016
8:13:29 PM
...KIM KUMS A KROPPA !!!!...

Im soooo glad Kim survived the following situations....cos he is still ' around ' to write the first and final chapters of The Carrigan Years...

# 1

In Claws book

http://www.climbinganchors.com.au/products/law-unto-himself-mike-law

Claw details a scene where Kim has a ground fall from about 30 feet up...smashing his legs into rocks ...and Claw catching Kim's head in his hands ... THX CLAW !!!!

# 2

Kim is establishing a rad new route in the Glasshouse Mountains QLD ...he's on unknown ground A LOOOOONG WAY OUT from a zero RP

>I thought I was going to die for sure...

'...Raptures 60m 24
Start: In the corner 15m R of OOTBAITB, and a few metres L of Strange Fruit.
"One of the most serious routes in Australia, I thought I was going to die for sure" - Kim Carrigan. On the crux pitch, Kim describes being 10m out from a #0 RP which sounds like a rather absorbing experience.
1) 30m (23) Up the corner on great rock to natural belay stance, appears to have pretty good gear. From this belay there is a variant second pitch (23) up the obvious line continuing out R towards Trojan (this was climbed by HB during the 90's).
2) 20m (crux) Traverse R above the steep overhangs and passing a few bail pieces towards runoutville. One of the most serious pitches in Queensland climbing requiring a very capable and bold approach. The route follows the weakness out L and up to a belay stance.
3. 10m (19) To the top.
Kim Carrigan, Paul Hoskins 1980s...'

# 3

On yet another O/S trip ...this time in 1982 ...Kim nearly ended the Carrigan Years in England ...

>Carrigan fell sixty feet or so and wound up brushing the ground

'... A bit of history for those who don't know it - in 1982 a few people were trying to make the third ascent. Kim Carrigan fell off the 'crux' (which incidentally is no harder than the rest of it, really) and Dougie Hall famously jumped off the belay (a scary proposition). Carrigan fell sixty feet or so and wound up brushing the ground (as did DH, I imagine). KC then retired from the fray and DH went up. 'I seemed to see a dotted white line on the rock above me. I knew that if I went above it and fell off I'd hit the ground.',

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=302157


...................................







ima.seriousyoungliza
12-Apr-2016
4:37:13 PM
On 16/08/2015 wallwombat wrote:

>I think the harsh reality is, most climbers under the age of thirty haven't
>got a clue who he is...

Generation catagorization generally goes like this...

Generation T : 1900 to 1915
Generation U : 1915 to 1930
Generation V : 1930 to 1945
Generation W :1945 to 1960 ( Baby Boomers )
Generation X : 1960 to 1975
Generation Y : 1975 to 1990
Generation Z : 1990 to 2005
Generation A : 2005 to 2020


To you all...this is the GROUND ZERO of THE CARRIGAN YEARS ...top camp ..The Pines ...Mount Arapiles ...Wimmera Plain....Victoria.....Australia.....planet Earth...

...KIM CARRIGAN winning a ' six-pack ' contest from HB.........1982...

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ima.seriousyoungliza
12-Apr-2016
5:15:25 PM


Gnaguts
12-Apr-2016
5:39:07 PM
Gen woteva, I can see who has the biggad-ck here an it ain't KC or U, so when RU gonna champion a best seller book to genA? ... that might actually sell, ... since the only buyers of a KC book would B ur gen, an U an they kno bout it already.

Contenders 4 a best sella would B; HB, and tha Cossey bros, and Davy Jones, Monique Forestier an maybe a couple of others including my fiend Eddy, ODH, simes an Ukno WhoyaR.
I dismiss Andy P becos he just went ahead an did it without the preChoky fanfare, an successfully 2 I might add, just like mikl's Law unto himself.
ima.seriousyoungliza
12-Apr-2016
5:46:56 PM

: D




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