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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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Author
Kim Carrigan BOOK
ima.seriousyoungliza
14-Dec-2015
4:21:14 PM
.
...3 SERIOUS YOUNG LIZARDS...



Kim ... Robbie ...and Alex .... each finding a different hand hold for their right hand ...adjacent to the bulge below the dreaded ' spit-me-off ' slab...

Thecrag.com : ' ...Remarkably sustained face on thinner and thinner holds. If you fall off the slab you'll be in good company...'

KIm knows all about that ...he fell off the slab in the rain and never returned ... EXCEPT IN HIS NIGHTMARES ...

... MWAAAAAHAHAHAHAHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA !!!!!

: D




ima.seriousyoungliza
14-Dec-2015
4:51:15 PM
In the final analysis-rationalisation -synthesis ...I give credit for the first ascent of SERIOUS YOUNG LIZARDS-THE RING ROUTE-LORD OF THE RINGS (31) to a joint venture between Kim Carrigan and Stefan Glowacz...

KIm conceived it ... bolted it ...and climbed all the moves ...Stefan just dotted the i and crossed the t ...

Just as I give credit for the first ascent of PUNKS IN THE GYM (32) to a joint venture between Martin Scheel ...Wolfgang Gullich ...Andy Pollitt... and Jerry Moffat ...

Martin conceived it ...bolted it ...maybe chipped a bit ..and climbed most of it....Wolfy seiged his way to the top in 6 days ...Andy glued the Bird-bath... and apparently Jerry did the first red point ascent ....






ima.seriousyoungliza
14-Dec-2015
5:15:17 PM
And finally ... I give TOTAL credit to KIm Carrigan , for being the first Australian to climb into the grade 30s and 5.13s

And when you consider that the hardest climbs in Australia , when Kim started climbing , were about grade 20 ....



' KIng Carrigan ' indeed ...




#################################################

dalai
14-Dec-2015
7:44:11 PM
Kim's biography would be a good read. Has anyone still in contact with Kim spoken to him about writing one?
ima.seriousyoungliza
14-Dec-2015
9:51:04 PM
mikllaw
28/11/2014
2:09:37 PM

>>> ... if Kim did put pen to paper or finger to keyboard he could destroy much of the mythology us also-rans perpetuated after he wandered off.


:D

*rubbing hands gleefully*

:D

Dave C
14-Dec-2015
10:55:27 PM
Those three photos are interesting in that it is the guy in the middle picture (Robbie?) who is using the right handhold that Kim used on his serious attempts, notably when he fell off the top slab. Saw him use it repeatedly myself, I still have some slides of him using it in the back of a cupboard here somewhere. He did play on a sequence to the left and I think Glowacz eventually went that way as did Didier Raboutou. It was all such a long time ago...
ima.seriousyoungliza
30-Dec-2015
8:49:30 PM
>>>Those three photos are interesting in that it is the guy in the middle picture (Robbie?) who is using the right handhold that Kim used on his serious attempts...

Am I confused by you , Clarky , or are you confused by you ('... it was such a long time ago .'.) ...hopefully ur not getting old timers disease like all the baby boomers who picked up toooo much aluminium when the acidic coka cola leached it from the inside of the cans ...

http://www.mediconsult-sigdell.com/aluminum.htm

That IS Kim on the left ...and he's using a different hold than that used by Robbie...

PLEASE dig out ur slides ANY SLIDES OF KC and add em here

Cheers

.............................................
SOME CLASSIC SCENES FROM THE CARRIGAN YEARS...

1975
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uu6suvaNI-I

1979
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N2x8RhadlpA

1982
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Phu0EFyMEdo
ima.seriousyoungliza
30-Dec-2015
10:04:09 PM
THE CARRIGAN YEARS IN THE BROADER CULTURAL CON TEXT


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1975

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1976

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1977

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1978

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1979

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1980

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1981

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1982

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1983

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1984

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1985




ima.seriousyoungliza
30-Dec-2015
10:27:42 PM
On 11/12/2015 MisterGribble wrote:

>"Run it out at the top of Auto-Da-Fe

>Trash your digits at the crux of Yesterday

>Crank Crank Crank up Surface to Air

>Do all the things that make you scared"


CHORUS :

Everybody loves RPs and Hexes

Everybody needs cash to spend

Everybody loves tick marks on the cruxes

Everbody needs two or three Friends



Fit it to this melody
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ehYU6p3aIZQ







ima.seriousyoungliza
31-Dec-2015
4:05:16 PM
MAKING THE CONNECTION THAT NEVER WAS A CONNECTION :

KIM CARRIGAN AND MARK RICHARDS



On 13/08/2015 imaseriousyounglizar wrote:

>Kim's rowing is what set him apart from the ' disorganised types ' ...
>Kim clearly understood the difference between climbing and training for
>climbing ... where as most equated climbing WITH training ..... although
>of course now gym climber has blurred all that ...

Operating contemporanorously , but completely independently of Kim Carrigan , was Newcastle NSW based Mark Richards ...

From 1975 to 1985 KIm and Mark strived to domanate the world in their respective recreational / proffesional persuits : rock climbing and surfing respectively ...

During those years , both rock climbing and surfing went from anti rat race-communing with nature-week end warrior activities to cut throat competive arenas with corperate sponsorship ..

Mark ( and his famous twin fins ) won 4 world titles from 1979 to 1982 , while Kim become the leading figure at the fore front of hard climbing in Australia , and one of the best rock climbers internationally ...

What set them apart ?

Mark :

http://www.dailytelegraph.com.au/news/mick-fannings-devotion-to-surfing-out-of-the-water-gave-him-a-winning-edge/story-fni0cx4q-1226787985033

'...MARK Richards would jog a lap around his local oval in Newcastle. ...Sometimes, Australia's greatest ever surfer, would run two laps...."I thought I was killing it because I was running around an oval when I knew the other guys weren't,'' Richards, who won four straight world titles (1979-1982), said...."That's what my training was and I actually felt like I had a bit of an advantage...."My generation thought all you needed to do to be fit was to actually surf...."But its all changed.''...'

Kim :

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP17/profile-arapiles/4

'...Kim Carrigan ... maintain[ed] a serious work ethic and competitive drive that seemed more reflective of the 9-to-5 world beyond the crags. When I first met Kim in Brisbane in 1980, he was all bleary eyed. I asked him what he'd been up to, and he mentioned swimming forty laps at the local pool. "It wouldn't have been so bad if I could swim properly," he said. Life was about climbing, and to climb you had to train....'



THE CARRIGAN YEARS ENDED IN 1985 BECAUSE OF ONE CLIMB AND ONE MAN ...

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-videos/watch/gimme-kraft-secret-training-files-wolfgang-g%C3%BCllich
.


Dave C
2-Jan-2016
10:52:04 PM
On 30/12/2015 ima.seriousyoungliza wrote:

>
>That IS Kim on the left ...and he's using a different hold than that used
>by Robbie...

Do you have any idea how many times Carrigan tried that route and how many ways he tried it? I saw him try at least two other sequences on that top section at least once but he always came back to the same one. When he fell off the top slab he had climbed it using the hold "Robbie" has in his right hand. Can't be arsed scanning the slides BTW - I don't have a suitable scanner these days anyway - but I had a quick look at a few of them with a hand viewer and he's using the hold I said he used, it's the way he found worked best for him. What you believe does not concern me if you weren't around there at the time, if any people who saw him trying it remember it differently then fair enough, I may be wrong.
ima.seriousyoungliza
4-Jan-2016
3:05:14 PM
>>> if any people who saw him trying it remember it differently then fair enough,




Now that youve lowered the tone enuf, its time to unleash John Sharman's subtle kick in the guts...



...the first kick being this one :

http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=Display&ForumID=1&MessageID=127371





White Trash
8-Jan-2016
11:49:29 AM
On 4/01/2016 ima.seriousyoungliza wrote:

>
>
>

I'd buy John Sharman's book based on that pic of him alone.
ima.seriousyoungliza
10-Feb-2016
9:27:11 PM
.
White Traaaaash .......did you type that with yor EYEBROWS UP !!!! .... or yor eyebrows .......down....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9gZcFdKZXsM


.

White Trash
11-Feb-2016
5:04:57 PM
Do you know where the toilets are?
There's a dodgy smell on the back of your wrist and you need to wash it off.

Good find by the way, as there is nothing like the old country humour.

Have you proof read the KC book yet?
Di KC ask you to preface it?

widewetandslippery
11-Feb-2016
6:56:14 PM
ha ha ima. serious is gunna get a wad off on him from Kim. Thats what pre face means doesnt it?
ima.seriousyoungliza
11-Feb-2016
6:58:14 PM
.
...HOTTEST CHICK WITH ATTITUDE FROM THE CARRIGAN YEARS

...While Kim was freeing Procul...in 1978... to produce Australia's first 26 ...Leslie Kan-ow-ah was busting out of our TV screens on Countdown ...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eqM3P7LziIc






ima.seriousyoungliza
14-Feb-2016
3:56:16 PM
Undy Pollit forecast

>>>Aiming for Easter launch in Nati ...

Very good ....this will make a good appetizer for the MAIN COURSE ...

THE Kim Carrigan BOOK
ima.seriousyoungliza
14-Feb-2016
3:56:51 PM
Dr Nick typed :

>>>bought Jerry's one...



Jerry.....who was starting his rise to fame, during the Carrigan years....gleefully explains his love of " burning people off "

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RM-zsZM_VwM&feature=player_embedded

ima.seriousyoungliza
14-Feb-2016
3:57:05 PM
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