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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

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Author
Petzl reverso -not using the v-groove side - belay
Flashyrox
16-Jan-2016
11:27:34 AM
Hi guys,

Just wanted to know if petzl has approved documentation or any documentation regarding belaying on the smooth side of the device rather than the v grooved toothed side ?

I cannot find anything in their manual ( reverso 4).

I don't own this device I just thought it would be handy knowledge when climbing with people that use the reverso when doing partner checks.

With my act xp I can switch from smooth to toothed depending on the climbers weight or if I'm on rappel and I want less friction.

Thanks in advance.

dan_b
16-Jan-2016
2:31:01 PM
Not quite the same, but I used the petzl verso for years and did this on occasion without problems.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
16-Jan-2016
2:51:41 PM
On 16/01/2016 Flashyrox wrote:
>Hi guys,
>
>Just wanted to know if petzl has approved documentation or any documentation
>regarding belaying on the smooth side of the device rather than the v grooved
>toothed side ?
>
>I cannot find anything in their manual ( reverso 4).
>
> I don't own this device I just thought it would be handy knowledge when
>climbing with people that use the reverso when doing partner checks.
>
>With my act xp I can switch from smooth to toothed depending on the climbers
>weight or if I'm on rappel and I want less friction.
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>

I don't own a P Reverso, but do use a BD Guide, and I understand from your question that you are looking for the 'official' answer.

Having said that, here is another opinion, though likely old fashioned, but still applicable to my mind...

Having started out climbing during the waist belay era, and progressing through the techno-gadgetry variations since, the basic principle of providing friction to the leaders rope still applies!
The whole magic of techno-gadgets is that they provide this friction without burning your body parts to provide equivalent.
Such things as Sticht Plates etc worked very well in their time and none of them had extra ribs for friction, though other brands cottoned on to the idea of cinching the rope within grooves to cater for different rope diameters with equal friction, and later this was refined further by providing ribs within such 'V'-shaped slots to provide further friction.

So my answer to your question, irrespective of 'official endorsement', is that you can validly belay on the smooth side of the device provided that the rope actually turns a corner (has a bend in it) around same 'smooth' slot.
Undoubtedly there will be less friction compared to the ribbed side of the slot, but provided the angle incorporated into the belay rope is sufficient, the belay will work fine in proficient hands...

Off topic but related.
When the ribs wear off within my BD Guide I will still be using the device for belaying, as I reckon 95% of the friction comes from the V-slot anyway.
martym
16-Jan-2016
9:17:47 PM
I've just had a look at the Petzl Website - Chockstone doesn't like the URL but google "petzl reverso"
- and the fact that none of their PPE sheets or the technical notice mention turning the device upside down says that there is NO PROBLEM doing so. My rational is Petzl usually outline every obvious scenario they can think of that is dangerous and put a little skull & crossbones next to it.
The omission of reversing the reverso with said warning says to me that: it's not going to kill anyone; but why wouldya? It's really no different to using a tube... I can imagine there is a possibility the V groove would slow down someone tugging rope upwards... but wouldn't jam it.

Never heard of the Unireverso before - might be a good one to solve the problem.. I can't imagine having a biner permanently attached to my belay device.. anyone used it?
Jayford4321
19-Jan-2016
2:59:40 PM
On 16/01/2016 dan_b wrote:
>Not quite the same, but I used the petzl verso for years and did this on
>occasion without problems.

yeh?
wot rope?
a fat n fuzzy 11 works every time, but a new slick 8.5 is different.

There are 5 messages in this topic.

 

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