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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Author
Soft Shackle to Re-Sling Old Cam

Jacques Shurmer
17-Nov-2015
9:56:51 AM
Hello,
Recently I have got my hands on a few old Metolius TCU spring loaded camming devices, one did not have a sewn nylon sling like that rest so I was investigating a solution for this.
Due to the age and condition of the spring loaded camming device I cannot justify paying to have a professional re-sling it with a bar tacked nylon/ dyneema sling.

So I propose a discussion on the following solution I will commence using. I had an extra 4mm SK-78 dyneema soft shackle (finished with a button knot and tails are tapered and buried) lying around and thought that it could be a really viable solution that ticks all the boxes. I would be confident that the MBS of this soft shackle would be greater than 40kN.



I have used a castration band to ensure the soft shackle splice will not open allowing the loop to pop over the button knot and also to ensure that the strands immediately after the button knot are in bearing contact with the plastic coated steel wire to ensure the maximum surface area upon loading.

I will probably use this cam for AID only due to its condition but i'm with famous last words that this would perform as well as a standard sling ;) ?

Make Comment, has anyone else used soft shackles for this purpose?.

Thanks You

IdratherbeclimbingM9
17-Nov-2015
10:29:28 AM
I know you are describing something different, but from the photo it is hard to tell how you have attached it...
Without doing a search I know that there are a number of threads about girth hitching tape to cables on slcd's. BD technical mob advise against this practice due lowered strength rating involved.

Why not simply tie an appropriate sling or cord to the slcd-loop as a continuous length loop with an appropriate knot for same (water knot for sling, triple fishermans knot for spectra cord, etc)?

You should've asked Stu to tie on one of his old bits of tatt commensurate with the cam before selling it to you!
;-)
TimP
17-Nov-2015
10:54:35 AM
I vaguely recall that clipping direct into these cams was OK because of the 'U' shaped wire formed by the two stems and spreader bar not like single stem cams where the bend in the wire loop is more extreme under load, (if clipped direct) hence the need for the sling.

Clipping direct has advantages in aid as it gets you that tiny bit higher.

I'm interested to see if this dyneema crosses over into climbing, it seems to have revolutionised sailing rigging, but I expect the soft shackle thing only works under a consistent load like standing rigging.
widewetandslippery
17-Nov-2015
11:51:37 AM
Im with M9 why not buy a bit of sling and tie a knot? I
kieranl
17-Nov-2015
1:55:34 PM
I've got some of those old TCUs and I clip direct with a krab - or I would if I still used them. If you're just going to use them for aid, then any bit of tat should do.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
17-Nov-2015
2:46:48 PM
>I would probably use this cam for AID only.

I hear you, but feel the need to point out a caveat that I use for similar situations.
Most 'old' gear is still good for its original strength rating, unless we are talking about software (slings etc).
Aiding on crap is fine as long as everyone involved knows which are the crap bits of gear.

Most people mark their gear for easy identification and return when racks end up blended.
I mark my suspect gear with a different colour to my good gear... When we swap leads and rack, my partners appreciate this. I also notice they often remove the suss gear and hand it back to me ;-)

Another point to bear in mind is that occasionally you may find yourself run out above thin gear & the last decent placement is occupied by one of the suss marked pieces... This makes for keeping hard aid leads interesting!
;-)

I wonder how much thought borrowers of mikl's loaner rack give to it?
Heh, heh, heh.

sliamese
18-Nov-2015
11:57:18 AM
It'll be fine. Sure it reduces the load bearing capacity a bit, but given usual circumstances you'll never create forces big enough to be concerned about.

Anyway having pieces on your rack you only just trust is good for your onsighting! ;)

IdratherbeclimbingM9
18-Nov-2015
12:38:55 PM
On 18/11/2015 sliamese wrote:
>Anyway having pieces on your rack you only just trust is good for your onsighting! ;)

... And these kind of pieces make excellent bail pieces if ever the need arises.
;-)
GoUp!
18-Nov-2015
4:33:11 PM
Maybe could use soft links? We use them in paragliding to replace carabiners. I know of two brands - essentially the same thing - by Ozone and Supair.
http://www.xcmag.com/2015/07/ozone-big-link-lites/
http://supair.com/products/en/accessoire/connect-30.html
james
19-Nov-2015
3:32:55 PM
Not sure soft links would be so great for climbing....would they reliably stay closed with the jigging up & down from rope movement?? On a wing this isn't an issue because there is always at least body weight (or more) keeping them them 'closed'.

There are 10 messages in this topic.

 

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