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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Author
New to rock. Need gear advice.
jordie
17-Sep-2012
8:31:02 PM
New to rock and wall. Want to buy some new wall shoes for the gym.

Can I get any recommendations?

Thanks!
widewetandslippery
17-Sep-2012
8:38:34 PM
don't buy shoes marketed as beginner/trad. They are for old farts. A shoe is a climbers tool. Learn how to use it.

Miguel75
17-Sep-2012
8:49:01 PM
Go to Bogong in Hardware lane and try on a few different shoes and sizes. Buy one that fits;)

My first pair of shoes were Mad Rocks. Inexpensive and comfy. I'm getting them resolved with better rubber just for indoor thrash fest use...
jordie
17-Sep-2012
8:52:10 PM
Yeah, I've bought some stuff from them before.

I'm an ice climber, and I do a big international climb each year, however, my rock technique and experience is horrendous.

I'm wanting to get back into the climbing gym and get my act together and go from there.

Anyone got any tips?

Miguel75
17-Sep-2012
9:50:26 PM
On 17/09/2012 jordie wrote:
>I'm wanting to get back into the climbing gym and get my act together
>and go from there.
>
>Anyone got any tips?

Rad man, sounds like you get amongst it. What sort of tips are you looking for? Which shoes to buy? How to better your technique? If you can be more specific around what tips you're after you'll get more specific answers;)

I just bought a pair of LS katanas. I'd heard really good things about the Muiras but they didn't fit as well so I bypassed them. I also have a pair of Mad Rock flash, bought them off Chockys own Cpt Mulch for $30, and a pair of 5.10 Moccassyms which are great but too big... Regardless of which shoes you buy focus on your footwork. Search google for 'quite feet'...
jordie
17-Sep-2012
10:00:29 PM
Would love some tips on what I should be looking for in a shoe, and anything else I would need. (I don't want to look like an 'amateur' with all the best equipment, but I want the necessities)

Anyone recommend any gyms in melbourne? Hardrock?

ajfclark
17-Sep-2012
10:07:13 PM
If you're buying gear in Victoria, get a VCC membership. You get discounts at places like Bogong and Mountain Designs so if you're buying shoes or something it'll save you something like $15-25 depending on what you buy.

Also gets you concession entry at most Melbourne gyms. Saving $2 or $3 a session it doesn't take much to end up in front if you're training regularly.

Re shoes: Find something that fits and go from there. Personally, I like 5.10 shoes but apparently I have long narrow feet (I run in Asics ).

ajfclark
17-Sep-2012
10:16:19 PM
Re gyms: I always found it depended who I was climbing with as to where I went.

Hardrock CBD is central an easy for most people to get to. There's a regular meetup group on Monday nights for meeting new people. They also run nights at other gyms on other nights but I don't know how regular they are.

Hardrock Nunawading I always preferred the lead climbing here compared to the CBD gym. There's a bouldering area but if that's your thing there might be better options. Still good for warming up and cooling down.

Altona I didn't get to much even though it was the closest gym to my house.

Bayside was always difficult for me to get to (45km each way or something). I found it to be some of the better route setting. The bouldering area is fantastic.

Lactic Factory's bouldering is also very good.

The free burnley wall is worth a visit too. You'll either love it or hate it.

Miguel75
17-Sep-2012
10:20:55 PM
There are tons more qualified people than myself but I reckon fit is the most important. How many pairs of ice boots did you try on before you bought a set? Get on into Bogong and try a stack on. Tell the guys what you want and they'll look after you. And ditto what Andrew said, VCC discount is good.

P.S. I prefer Velcro. Tying shoes is for doofuses.

P.P.S. is the plural of doofus doofuses or doofi?

ajfclark
17-Sep-2012
10:31:15 PM
I think you should go to more than one store as most only carry a couple of lines from a couple of manufacturers and most of the shoes within the same manufacturer will use a similar last.

You used to be able to walk to hardware lane/little bourke and try on 5.10 and Mammut at MD, cross the street and try on La Sportiva and Hot Chilli (I think) at Bogong, then Scarpa at Paddy Pallin. There might've been some Mad Rock in there somewhere too. Hardrock in the CBD also carries a range of 5.10 (different to those at MD) and maybe Mad Rock shoes or something too?

ajfclark
17-Sep-2012
10:32:10 PM
And M75 meant quiet feet.

G'Night Mike.

climbau
17-Sep-2012
10:32:25 PM
On 17/09/2012 Miguel75 wrote:
>
>P.P.S. is the plural of doofus doofuses or doofi?

I Believe it is Doofii!
But can depend on the context.
example 1= Hey, did you see those Doofii at the crag the other day? Wasn't it crazy how they were standing in those ladders made from slings?
example2= Geez my mate and I felt like a couple of Doofi at the crag the other day. we were the only ones aid climbing at Shipley and everyone was giving us greezies.

;)
jordie
17-Sep-2012
10:35:34 PM
brilliant!

my dad lives in Hardware Lane, and I bought a bit of equipment from there.

I tried a fair few on, and the first pair I tried on was the best pair (after hours of searching).

jordie
17-Sep-2012
10:35:48 PM
Thanks again for all the help! It has been greatly appreciated!
widewetandslippery
17-Sep-2012
10:41:41 PM
what were the best pair?
jordie
17-Sep-2012
11:02:16 PM
asolo evoluzione. Heavy, but do the job in the 'layas. with grivel g10 and g14s.

freepete
18-Sep-2012
8:32:28 AM
Collective for doofi?

There are 17 messages in this topic.

 

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