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Topic Date User
Belaying the leader directly off the anchor. 6-Aug-2012 At 6:22:54 PM Mike Bee
My thoughts on this are as follows. They are relevant mainly for guiding trad climbs, not in the mountains (something I have no experience with as a guide).

- Guides rarely do a climb when falling is going to be concern. Most time is spend dragging kids up the Organ Pipes. In this situation, it doesn't matter how the kids are rigged to "belay", as they are mainly cosmetic, and the protection is there for rope management as much as anything else.

- If a guide is taking a client up a harder climb when falling is going to a possibility, generally it's done with clients who by their very nature are not newbies (ie they want to be guided up a harder climb). In this situation they are either competent enough to belay with a tube device safely, or they are competent enough that a few minutes instruction with a Gri Gri will get them up to a sufficient standard.

- If the guide is going to head off on a climb where falling is a realistic chance, and they aren't sure about the belayer/device combination, I question if the guide is making the right decision. They should probably reevaluate their whole day plan.

I can see the argument for the situations that are outlined in the video, I just think that none of them are relevant to recreational rock climbers or rock climbing guides in Australia.

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