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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

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Topic Date User
Double rope diameter/ratings 14-Jul-2011 At 3:27:36 PM MichaelOR
Message
On 14/07/2011 Fish Boy wrote:
>the rope speeds will be diff if you fall, so if changing between twin and
>double rope technique, always clip ropes through seperate biners to prevent
>meltdown.

Absolutely correct! I used doubles for years - particularly useful when climbing at Araps.

Different diameters (even different brands of rope with same diameter) will stretch differing amounts. Also, if used as doubles (not twins always clipped into the same gear, every piece) then differing lengths of each rope will invariably be in use - climb and gear wanders. That means different amount of stretching even if ropes identical.

So in a fall the two ropes stretch differing amounts. IF they are clipped into the SAME biner then you will have rope rubbing against rope in the fall. This is not what you want. This could be a problem particularly if ropes are together in the last bit of gear.

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