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Topic Date User

First Rope Advice 6-Jan-2011 At 11:20:10 AM climbingjac

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On 6/01/2011 ambyeok wrote:
>6 cents... 10m seems extreme.

Each to their own.... 10m tied into a loop is very convenient. It means you can just clip the cordolette into each anchor point (which in the case of trad tends to mean 4 points), pull the cordolette down in between each trad piece into a central point, and tie a knot there. And voila - an easily equalised anchor without mucking about with slings and bits of rope. 10m sounds like a lot though if you think about it, the cord going from each trad piece down to the central point will be say, at least 75cm, and since the cord is tied in a loop, it's 75cm x 2 for each trad piece. That's 6m before you even talk about the rope taken up in the central knot, or extra extension needed in the anchor due to trad pieces being further back etc etc. Quick n nice, rather than mucking about for ages on a belay ledge while getting fried in the sun. Furthermore if you are doing easy trad, you'll probably find you use up all your slings on the route itself - extending your quickdraws in order to prevent rope drag.

Of course, less cord would be needed if you are only wanting to equalise a bolted anchor that has only 2 points.