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Ice screws
J Qui
8:22:01 PM
So which ice screws do people prefer? And what lengths?

I remain partial toward BD Express, but curious what others prefer and why?

4:41:21 PM
Hey Jase,

I think the Grivel's with large coffee grinder handles are by far the easiest to screw in - even in short route places like Blue Lake - are you up for a trip?!!!

9:19:27 PM
BD Turbos (express are good for your 2nd) and Grivel 360s. Length entirely depends on where you're climbing and you should always carry a good selection in your rack anyway. Canada/Norway, 22cm; Scotland 10-15cm
Mike Bee
10:36:35 PM
On 12/06/2009 Paulie wrote:
>Length entirely depends on where you're climbing and you should always carry a good >selection in your rack anyway. Canada/Norway, 22cm; Scotland 10-15cm

What do you reckon for NZ?

Has anyone had experience with the Petzl screws? I'm on the lookout for my first screws and the look of the Petzl winding mechanism seems to be a bit easier than the BD Turbo Express.
1:45:27 AM
there's really no different between the grivel, petzl or new BD's - they all work really well. the older BD's (with black hangers) have smaller teeth & are harder to start. whatever you get, make them all the same type, they rack easier, mix brands & they don't sit together so well. I have petzl screws & like them. A range of sizes is good, climbing ice in Canada I have 1 long & 1 stubbie, & then 1/2 17cm & 1/2 13cm. works for pure ice routes for me, the ice here is good so 13cm screws are usually enough.

9:03:26 AM
I think having a couple of 22cm screws are nice and comforting for belays and also handy for drilling beefy Abolokov threads.

I only have one but would like to add another.

I have BD Turbos which are nice.

The new Petzl screws look sweet.

6:34:12 PM
On 12/06/2009 Mike Bee wrote:
>What do you reckon for NZ?

Dunno, never ice climbed there before.

Re winders: I have this Charlet Moser winding doovie that fits inside the hanger of most screws (works exceptionally well with BD Express not so great with my DMM screws) it makes leading steep ice much safer and IMO better than the the winder on the turbo as it has this big head and is super easy to use with gloves on and you can get a 22cm screw in flush faster.

11:00:38 AM
the new BDs are by fad the best. cut in better than grivel, havent used petzl much but.

the best thing is they rack the best, they sit flat in a ice-clipper for easy use.

Lengths for NZ (say 10 screws for some hard ice routes?!)

4 x 19cm

4 x 16cm

2 x 13cm

if the ice is good then short screws are fine, and often u'll bottom long ones out. if the ice is bad dont kid ur self into thinking a longer screw is way better. sure there may be better ice deeper, but chop some more crud away!!! and for technical water fall climbing u dont want real long screws because its better to place a short one and keep moving IMO, again a 13cm in good ice is bomber!!!

There are 8 messages in this topic.


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