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Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries

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Topic Date User
Nasty biner flip n unclip warning! 4-Dec-2009 At 4:09:33 PM phil_nev
On 4/12/2009 citationx wrote:
>On 4/12/2009 phil_nev wrote:
>>A small point, I think If your moving up and left, the draw biner with
>>the rope through it should probably be facing the other direction...
>in the first photo you'll notice that she's to the right of the bolt,
>so you could argue that she clipped correctly to protect the moves straight
>after the clip...
>however, having said that i personally don't really believe in that risk
>as being too great. unless you've backclipped it i think there are much
>more probable risks to avoid rather than the direction of the rope-clipped
>biner. statisitcally speaking half of all falls i've seen or taken would've
>been taken onto a biner facing the "wrong" way but i've never seen one
>unclipped as a result...
>(so argumentative - probably due to alcohol before the end of friday work!!

Agreed... have done the same many time.... Way to weird to even speculate, just thought that it looked like the climber may have fallen up and left of where the draw is clipped... That said, you would think the wire would keep the rope clear of the draw..

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