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Chockstone Forum - Find Climbers

Find Climbers In Your Area

Topic Date User
Youeys NW Outcrop Sunday? 24-Aug-2009 At 10:45:38 AM WM
Message
On 23/08/2009 duglash wrote:
>Pit Simitri is ~ok.. but chipped, and next to P&F, which is great. Get on that instead!

PS is better than ok - it's the best slab i know of around melbourne. the cool thing about it is that every move is the same grade - unlike the heinously cruxy P&F! I've played on P&F, apart from the crux it's certainly quite nice but I'd rather pull on chipped holds on PS than pull on silver jugs on P&F. plus PS was in a welcoming mood yesterday and saw all sorts of clean ascents including an impressive 9 fingered ascent after Harold ripped the 2nd best flapper i've ever seen - and then taped it up mid-send to finish the job with blood still pumping out on all the holds. I've been grappling with the thorny issue of whether the big red ticks made subsequent ascents easier - or whether the added sliminess made it harder.

I think that PS would probably go free without the 2 chips - you could do the move left a bodylength lower i reckon. Would certainly be harder but seems quite feasible. has anyone tried this? i also wonder whether the 2 obvious chips are the only ones - there are some other holds that might have been enhanced but it's pretty hard to tell ... anyone?

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