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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

Author
Buller Ice Report July 17/18
JohnK
20-Jul-2004
11:19:03 AM
Ok no sexy photos just a short update on some of the climbing conditions on Mt Buller courtesy of a last minute decision to have a go at the solo climbing thing on the weekend.
Nearly got blown off the Summit Sat morning (gusts of up to 140 km/h were recordered apparently) with wind chill down to –28 (goggles icing up every 5 mins), visibility between 0 and 5 meters so struggled to find the Upper Gully to get down to the Waterfall area. Lots of snow on the decent gully. As the on line guide suggests high risk of snow slides here after fresh snow so be very careful. (refer to the on line guide on Neil M’s web site for references)
WATERFALL
Main column about 3/4 meter thick or so at its best section the rest is very variable at best for a lead. The ramp/vertical section leading up to Main Column is good with good front pointing practice but no pro. Wasn’t keen to solo any higher than this! The Wet Digit and Heat Arches about ½ a meter plus thick and climable (left and right of main column)
GUTTER SNIPE (R gully from Waterfall)
This now has lots of snow and some ice to climb on. OK mixed gully climbing practice but not as much ice as on Neil’s 3 JJJ trip last year and definitely no pro.
AMPHITHEATRE
Route (i)
In good condition with the first 5 meters providing nice ice up to and left of the small waterfall. The small waterfall here is very hollow and definitely not climbable safely but the ramp on the left and then all the way up is great with plenty of hard snow and ice to keep you front pointing all the way until you join the Upper Gully right on the top with a bit of exposure as well.
Other areas are generally hard snow and thin ice over rock particularly the higher you get so plenty of opportunities to practice. Lets hope for better things yet later in July early August.

p.s. and to idiot that stole my telescopic trekking pole which I jammed behind the “danger” sign on the Summit because is was frozen at 7am Sun and I could not fit it in my pack may it bring you 100 years of ankle twisting bad luck!

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